Has anyone tried to re-enforce shocks for larger sway-bar?

[HADA 11]

I'm not thrilled with the amount of understeer my MP5 exhibits so far. I've only put about 500km's on it, but I can't see the situation improving itself.

Considering the change putting an ITR swaybar made to my Teg LS I'd like to install a MSP bar in my P5.

I understand that the endlink mounting flange on the stock shock is flimsy. Has anyone successfully re-enforced this area?

I can see that the Tokico shock has a much more substantial flange. Any educated thoughts on how/if this could be successfully duplicated on the stock shock?

Grind off the stock flange and weld on a larger/thicker one?

Any good tech on this?

 

[Don]

If it understeers now, installing a larger sway in the front should make the situation worse, not better.

Don

 

[Alexatwork]

I may be wrong, but less roll in the front would add to grip up there. Mo' grip in the front means a back end that is a little more loose. Loose backend = less understeer? If anything I imagine it would balance the handling of the car out, as most production cars are designed to understeer.

I haven't seen the mount for the swaybar yet, but would it be possible to beef it up a bit, as opposed to grinding it off and then welding a new one on?

If you do attempt this Hada11, let me know how it goes as I used to drive a mid-engined rwd car and miss the oversteer/neutrality that it brought.

 

[ArkosP5]

Get the 19mm AWR bar. It does wonders for the understeer. However installing Racing Beat springs cancelled that out a bit (but there is a stiffer setting on the bar).

I've only heard of one person actually snapping off the strut tab with the 19mm bar, and mine has held up quite well.

 

[HADA 11]

I intend to put the swaybar out back. A larger swaybar upfront would make the understeer worse.

I've been given some good advice on another board, I'm going to try to reinforce the mounting area.

 

[Don]

I may be wrong, but less roll in the front would add to grip up there.

Yup, you are.

A larger bar reduces "the combined cornering force and the adhesion limits of the side by side tires that it acts upon" which means it promotes understeer if it's placed in the front.

Increasing the size of the rear bar as HADA intends to do will decrease understeer.

Don

 

[o.g.sk8er]

I've only heard of one person actually snapping off the strut tab with the 19mm bar, and mine has held up quite well.

That was me! I think the reason it broke because I went into my driveway at such a wierd angle, and too fast, that it stressed out the tab and broke it clean off. I'm not saying this will happen to everyone, but I've learned to go straight, and slow into my driveway now. Oh, that sway bar does improve the cornering ability quite a bit.

Patrick

 

[mazdadan]

Yeah, i've got the AWR 19mm sway bar and the only thing i've had break are the crappy mazda factory endlinks. The tabs have stayed put very well. I just fabbed my own endlinks with rod ends and threaded rod.

 

[niv]

hmm how hard was that?? i think i need to do that..

Does anyone have pics of how their 19mm bar is installed??? the instructions i got never came with a illustration.. and i just didn't understand... tabs up.. tabs down.... the little curve in the end points the bar up or down???!? i'm lost

 

[akhilleus]

I have a 21.5mm rear adj. AWR rear bar and i have no understeer...a little oversteer. **** the front bar..its all about tightening the rear. peace

 

[Dimitrios]

Grind off the stock flange and weld on a larger/thicker one?

Any good tech on this? [/B]

I wouldn't recommend that you'd really would want to/be able to do this. To get any sort of a good weld, you'd need good penetration (keep it clean guys! ) of the weld. You would more than likely either disort the strut cylinder and/or the gaskets/o-rings and sealing surfaces in doing so. Good idea irregardless; I was actually thinking of a "strap on" (ok, I'll stop with the inuendo) flange brace, but I would imagine that causing some damaged on the OD of the cylinder when it gets stressed.

You'd be better off just dropping the coin on new Tokico Blues or similar...buy me a set while you're at it

 

[akhilleus]

Actually i had planned on reinforcing my rear strut mounts. It actually wouldnt be that hard. You cant weld to the strut cylinder housing...however u can weld a piece to the strut tab. What would be ideal is to weld a piece to the bent end piece. extending it out 2-3in is probably enough. let us know what happens.

 

[Dimitrios]

Good point. I haven't gone under to see what the "tabs"/flanges are like. That does make sense. My thought was that it was tabs were breaking AT the weld....

 

[LittleRedWagon5]

I also havwe the AWR 19mm bar and stock struts with H&R springs and mine handles like its on rails. I havn't had any problems other than the bushings for the bar squeeking a bit. I looked at the mounting tabs for the endlinks when I was installing the bar, they don't look that flimsy. I've had my bar on for about 20,000 miles and I drive like an ASSHOLE around corners and onramps, I havn't had any problems.

Oh and please don't weld on Gas charged struts unless you don't like your face or arms....or torso, or legs, or life.

 

[Dimitrios]

I also havwe the AWR 19mm bar and stock struts with H&R springs and mine handles like its on rails.

Kick ass; that's the setup I think I am going to go (already have the H&Rs )

...I drive like an ASSHOLE around corners and onramps, I havn't had any problems.

I want to too! Yay!!

Oh and please don't weld on Gas charged struts unless you don't like your face or arms....or torso, or legs, or life.

About the best reason ever posted regarding doing something stupid (trying to weld struts) on here. Just buy new struts if you're concerned about the "flange".

 

[Mike R]

Look at some of the pics on racing beats site, they made re-enforcement plates that mounted on the strutbolts. If I get the big swaybar beforethe illuminas that's what I'm doing.

 

[akhilleus]

this pic has some issues...Racing beat has manufactured all new endlink mounts as well as sway bar mounts. This is definately not a traditional setup. Another problem is the sway bar and the endlinks themselves. Here they go up throught the control arms and the bar is short..This wouldnt work on an AWR bar. I must second the fact that i have beaten my sway bar and the tabs havent even bent or pulled from the strut housing...yet...I have 7-8k miles on the bar. Racing beat claims that the tabs would pull off....maybe they would with their bar....or the 19mm with non-adj...endlinks but the tabs do look reasonably sturdy...a bad or confused install could do it.

 

[jsgolfer]

please do weld on your struts and video tape it. then have your next of kin post it on the forum for us to see. j/k