Hardrace LCA's, anyone else try em yet?

i meant stock msp.

This is getting pretty far off topic, first off, the laws of physics do apply to cars... Too many people neglect what a gigantic difference taking 15% of the weigth off a car makes. (my car is totally gutted, and then some...)

right off the bat i am smoking things i shouldn't be keeping up with. (there's a reason almost all categories of racing have weight limits, or weight penalties for overpowered cars)

secondly, i was referring to a stock msp, not even a mildly tuned one (though we'll see what's what around a short track...)

and finally, numbers lie... If i say one car makes 200hp and the other makes 170hp, the 200hp is faster right?

Depends how and where they make the power... If the 200hp car makes it at 5500 rpm and the 170hp car makes it at 6800 and both weigh the same and have the same gear ratios the outcome may be surprising when the 200hp car shifts into second dividing it's torque while the 170hp car keeps going in first for another 1300rpm.

if this was facebook i would "like" this comment
 
oh....lol have you ever driven a stock MSP? there slow as balls

edit: wait... if you meant stock MSP, why did you say this
Hey don't be dissin' NA's... my severely weight reduced P5 goes like stink below highway speeds, and it's getting an FS-ZE in the spring which should put it well in front of most mild boosted P5's out there running full interiors and sound systems...
 
so how do we go about ordering Hardrace lower control arms for our car? Been watching eBay and none listed. Hardrace is locating in Taiwan (somewhere over seas) and doesn't pick up the phone. Anyone have any luck?
 
You said you ordered yours off of eBay? I've been watching like a hawk and haven't seen any listed. Do you have contact info (phone or email) for DOHC Garage?
 
I think the OP said he contacted the seller and they made him an eBay listing from which he purchased from.
 
Damn, I missed this thread and ended up ordering Mevotech LCA from Rockauto. Oh well, too late and it's time to install the LCA, driver's side. Is there a how-to for replacing the LCA? Do I need to lube up any of the bushings?
 
Damn, I missed this thread and ended up ordering Mevotech LCA from Rockauto. Oh well, too late and it's time to install the LCA, driver's side. Is there a how-to for replacing the LCA? Do I need to lube up any of the bushings?

+1 It'd be good to have a "How-to" to go from.
 
So, what are the results of long-term testing on the Hardrace control arms tap'n'die? I am looking into either getting these Hardrace LCA's or peddlers bushings and having them installed in my stockers... but I really want the cheapest solution to be honest.
 
Need a How-To?

How To? - Check the workshop Manual, pg. 5 HERE. The toughest part is getting the bolt on the end of the COntrol Arm (where the ball joint it) out of the bottom of the spindle... you might need a puller.
 
bump

I found a listing for the 626 LCA's but am wondering if they are the same for my P5? I know the 626's share a lot of the same bits and pieces...

I need new ball joints and figure I might as well upgrade while replacing them.
 
i dont know where you see 626 since the listing says 323. but to answer your question yes they fit same part number and same listing title as when i bought them
 
Haha, my bad. I must've multipied by 2. Thanks, bull. So you have them? Have you driven on them before you did your swap? What do you think of them?
 
Nice, I contacted the seller and got him to post those.. but I don't have that kind of cash right now. I hope it works out good for you!
bump

I found a listing for the 626 LCA's but am wondering if they are the same for my P5? I know the 626's share a lot of the same bits and pieces...

I need new ball joints and figure I might as well upgrade while replacing them.
 
i actually only got them a few weeks ago and i only have half of them on right now because i am only doing them when i get pissed off at the wiring
 
How much of a difference is it from doing the whole control arm verus doing just the bushing? I can see after pulling my trans that the bushing are starting to go bad, so I need to find out what's better to do.
 
My roomate swapped bushings on a Neon this week and they burned the old ones out (standard practice) but it was a PITA to get the new Energy Suspension bushings in. It looked like a huge pain. So that's why I would rather just unbolt the LCA and bilt the new one in. But I would probably need another alignment, no?
 
My roomate swapped bushings on a Neon this week and they burned the old ones out (standard practice) but it was a PITA to get the new Energy Suspension bushings in. It looked like a huge pain. So that's why I would rather just unbolt the LCA and bilt the new one in. But I would probably need another alignment, no?
I have a couple different friends that work at shops with a press, so they can press the new bushing in. I don't think you will need an alignment when you change them. I pulled my drivers side out when I pulled the trans, after I reinstalled everything I didn't feel that anything was off center.
 
I just got the Pedders' LCA bushings pressed in and installed them this week. Not sure what the big changes are right now, but I'll post up after a week or two of driving so you can all know. The cost was $110 for the bushings shipped, then another $80 for the pressing... more $ for the work than I thought it would be. I tried to shop around, but it didn't work out how I thought it would.
 
I just swapped in a pair of Raybestos lower control arms this week. New ball joints and bushings but standard OEM durometer. They were ~$180 shipped for both.
 

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