(rlaugh)
Game On Again
- Thread starter laloosh
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(rlaugh)
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- 2007 MS3
I'm not trying to be a jerk, I think I'm being a little obtuse (again).
I wasn't trying to say that the clamp is controlling the boost. Exactly the opposite is the case. The clamp is disabling the boost sensor, at least in terms of max boost "seen", which means there is no max boost control, at least based purely on boost pressure.
The solenoid may ultimately control the boost level by acting on the wastegate, but it does what it does because the ECU tells it to, and the ECU is acting based on what its sensors tell it, and if the clamp is telling the ECU that the boost never goes over a certain level, then the clamp is ultimately disabling the boost solenoid in terms of max pressure. There may of course be other feedback involved that will cause the ECU to reduce boost using the solenoid or other measures, but it will not happen because of boost pressure being too high. The ECU never knows that this is happening because of the clamp being there. This is what I am referring to when I say that you have no boost control. I am only concerned about maximum levels.
I'll have the last laugh when Im tuning the damn AP with it(scratch)
Whatever. Its a POS.... but it still may have some purpose eventually other than the boost. My tuner is anxious to tune some stuff.... maybe just pull a little fuel. Even on the stock pump my car is rich as hell...all 10's.
u will never overboost ont he stock system with i/ic/tbe, you will flow more air and thus make boost easier. people here seem to really worry about turning the boost up. it wont blow anything, the car still runs low timing and alot of fuel. me running 18psi with an ic is no different from me running 19psi with an ic in terms of safty for the motor, if anything if safer now cause the ic upgrade is doing its job and cooling the charge
Boost levels are not the problem. People just dont get it. As long as there is proper air fuel mixture, cool intake temps, and timing is low[which it is] then you are good to go. Detonation is your enemy and if you have none then why not turn the wick up a bit?????? Seems to work just fine for me and Chris
Pale bro, more power to you if you can. All of our cars are running rich as hell. I just want something that works. Can your standback be upgraded to V2.0 via firmware flash?
i suppose eventually they all can... I havent heard much from them lately.
Man up and go 24 psi like Driver is... (drive)
Well if it was me, i would sure want to know if something i bought can be upgraded, or im gonna be pissed!
dadasracecar
Member
Dude, you have zero understanding of the way this car works and it is just dumb luck that you haven't blown the living s*** out of your motor. By clamping your map you're lying to the ecu about the boost level. The Mazda factory boost control is a simple proportion loop so it increases or decreases the wastegate duty cycle proportionally to the error it reads from the MAP sensor. You set your clamp at 14 psi. Desired boost is 15.6 (stock) so your error is low and the result you get is 19 or so psi that you're actually seeing. If you had set it to 10 for example, the error would have been larger and the WG duty cycle would have decreased by a much larger amount resulting a much higher boost level. Kaboom. Don't believe me? Set it to 10, 8, 6 psi and see what happens. Be ready to go back to stock to try and get a new motor.
i have, before you question me, do it ureself, or better yet go talk to ure cpe buddies and ask them why they recommend setting it to 10psi for peopel boosing 18. If u dont belive me read the other forum. Ive had the map clamp installed wrong and it still didnt overboost. I just went a lowered it 8 and guess what NOTHIGN CHANGED, not the a/f not the timing, and certainly not the boost.....
nice try
blow s*** up, ure funny
nice try
blow s*** up, ure funny
Dude of course it can be upgraded....and that includes ******* stomping on it and buying something that is an upgrade.... at some point in the future of course
dadasracecar
Member
The cp-e map clamp can be set to whatever b/c the standback controls the wastegate solenoid to control boost. You have nothing controlling your boost. You are telling your ecu that it is only seeing 14 psi. It will decrease the WG duty cycle to try and increase boost to 15.6.
You were spiking to 19 psi b/c the factory boost control is a simple proportion loop. You floor it and the error is huge b/c you're not boosting and you're trying to hit 15.6. It spikes momentarily and cuts b/c your mods allow it to generate boost faster than it's control loop can account for. It sees too high of a pressure and cuts.
You were spiking to 19 psi b/c the factory boost control is a simple proportion loop. You floor it and the error is huge b/c you're not boosting and you're trying to hit 15.6. It spikes momentarily and cuts b/c your mods allow it to generate boost faster than it's control loop can account for. It sees too high of a pressure and cuts.
i wasnt spiking to 19 i was holding 19, when i get home i will upload the video to shut ure ass up....yes i film everything for haters like ureself. You will see a video full of boost cut every 3 seconds and u will see the boost guaged shoot up to 19 get cut to 10 shoot up to 19 hold for 3 second drop to 10 ect ect, trust me the map signal on this car has very little if anything at all to do with wot boost, then again my car is a freak compared to ures cause it responds to everythign different. THAN AGAIN U DRIVE A MS6 WITH A DIFFERENT ECU.
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Dude of course it can be upgraded....and that includes ******* stomping on it and buying something that is an upgrade.... at some point in the future of course
Instead of stomping on it, SELL it Pale! Come to the other side with us!! < snicker>
Chris, the difference is the MS6 acts completely different than the MS3. That is factual. So, what holds true for the 6, doesnt hold true for the 3. No need to continue the bickering between the two of you because utlimately, the thread will get locked and as usual, one more useful thread full of information lost.
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