FS-ZE wont idle HELP please

crazymx6

Member
:
1993 mx-6
Ok so i got the fsze eng and tranny installed it in my 93 mx6 and cannot get it to idle.

ive tried a new distributior because i thought there was not enough spark new plugs wires etc. i even found a j-spec ecu (fs08 dont know if it is the correct ecu) when i install it the car wont even start at all.

so now im thinking about getting a MAP-ECU stand alone eng mangt sys but before i do that i was hoping that i might be overlooking something,

as for what ive done tho the fs-ze i bypassed the egr system rerouted the coolant lines going to the throttle body.

i do have a couple other engines i can swap parts off of so any ideas would be great.

and last soes anyone know where i can get the wiring diagrams for the A-spec and the J-SPEC engines?

thanks for the help!
 
Um, is it safe to assume you've exhausted the resources at mx-6.com?
I mean, if u go into uncharted territory, I guess you gotta be prepared for this type of fun!
Did u check with where ever you sourced the engine from?
I'm no expert, but how about so more info?
Fuel, air, spark all covered?
Double check the wiring connections.
Are u running any engine management?
Do u have power in the vehicle? Any CELs?
Can u use a voltmeter to check if signals are present or within expected parameters?.
I'm not even sure where to start...
Are u using a FS-ZE ECU? Or are u trying to use your stock mx6?
Is the mx6 obd I ?
 
A 93 MX6 is OBD-I. You need the JDM ECU or a standalone. Check MX6.com, most people there are retards but a few are very knowledgable. I am a veteran on that site(i have a 97 MX6) This is not a popular swap because it doesnt seem to work often.



Crazee D said:
Um, is it safe to assume you've exhausted the resources at mx-6.com?
I mean, if u go into uncharted territory, I guess you gotta be prepared for this type of fun!
Did u check with where ever you sourced the engine from?
I'm no expert, but how about so more info?
Fuel, air, spark all covered?
Double check the wiring connections.
Are u running any engine management?
Do u have power in the vehicle? Any CELs?
Can u use a voltmeter to check if signals are present or within expected parameters?.
I'm not even sure where to start...
Are u using a FS-ZE ECU? Or are u trying to use your stock mx6?
Is the mx6 obd I ?
 
yeah, what he said too.
But for a non-mechanic, I still think I asked some good questions.
 
yes i have checked all connections and they seem to be working correctly
im running the stock 93 ecu obd1 but... i do have a j-spec ecu but when i hool that up i get nothing at all i was deffentally thinking about a standalone(Map-Ecu) system to try to get it to run right.

it will run with the stock ecu just not good lopes like a mother from 800- 2500ish
as for power i have a brand new yellow top optima battery
 
I bet 99% of the time this is a wiring issue.
Keep checkin and rechecking.
But 1st make sure that u get correct wiring diagrams
 
it won't run on the stock ECU!
the FS-ZE does not use a disty and the stock ECU will not know how to handle the direct ignition system!

where did you get the other ECU from? I haven't heard of an "FS08" ECU, what does it say on the label?
 
I went on mx6.com and found his thread there...
http://www.mx6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=177402

after looking at the pics on cardomain, his engine is definately NOT an FS-ZE but an *early* FS-DE, which is the exact same engine as his original

so while he did get an engine from japan, he didn't get an FS-ZE and basically got ripped off... as I've already said, the FS-ZE does NOT use a disty and none of them ever came with a disty!

so as far as the issue is concerned, it sounds like it's simply an electrical issue.... either the disty is bad or there's some sensors that are bad, or simply the wiring is bad... the stock ECU should run this engine just fine because this engine is EXACTLY the same as the stock one!
 
he imported and engine that he could have for much less in america?

SUCKS ASS!!!
i will kill myself...no way
 
i only paid 300 for the engine so not too bad same price as a a-spec. as for the disty i already put one in and no change and i checked the sensors. so basically im wondering if a eng mgt system will help?
 
i don't understand
if it is a direct replacement, why won't it work?

did you change the timing belt?
have you checked timing?

maybe is not an electrical issue
timing on the FS-DE can be confusing...

let me know if you need help with timing
 
my fs-ze

I have an fsze in my 02 pro5 and it is a direct swap, but mine hase dis. am having problems with a misfire though?? anyone know anything about cam and crank perameters of a protege??
Alejo_NIN said:
i don't understand
if it is a direct replacement, why won't it work?

did you change the timing belt?
have you checked timing?

maybe is not an electrical issue
timing on the FS-DE can be confusing...

let me know if you need help with timing
 
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sorry new here. I have a ze in my protege5, and it is a direct swap, but mine has dis. Only thing to change was the water housing. I did do something a bit screwy though. I took the stock maf sensor and cut it off the 2.5 in. housing and mounted it to a 3" pipe, everything is good, but I have a misfire code at high rpm's. Upped the fuel pressure, and installed bigger injectors, I thought it was a fuel problem, but this did not help. Could this be a cam/ crank sensor problem?? there is no hesitation, no sign of actual misfire. I cam side to side with another pr5 on the highway yesterday, and he did not come close to keeping up with me, but I have that anoying flashing code.
 
you can't change the characteristics of the MAF sensor.
the computer knows the dimensions of the maf housing and when the element heats up, it measures how much voltage it need to keep it at a certain temperature, by this, and knowing the dimensions of the housing, the computer is able to predict. close to perfect, the amount of air comming into the engine
if you change the size of the piping where the maf is, you create a different environment, thus the computer can't predict how much air coming in and therfore you get misfires...and possibly detonation too



TIMING:
to find the right timing, make shure the intake and exhaust cams are on time regarding the GEARS

the easy way to put them on time is by doing this.

remove the cam gears
there is a PIN on both cams, get them to face up
you will notice that the LOBES for each cam on cylinder 1 (closest to the timing belt) are facing away from each other...
then get the first cam gear (they both are the same.)
fit it into the intake cam and have the I with the little line on the teeth facing flat to the head pointing in
then get the other cam and fit it into the exhaust cam and have the "E" facing in towards the "I" on the other cam
after this , you have accomplished the right positioning of the gears in respect to the cams.

Next:

remove spark plugs..
place a long screwdriver into the first cylinder (the closest to the timing belt)
have someone rotate the crankshaft from the bottom (it is easier to lift the car on the passanger side, remove the wheel and use a big wrenche 1/2" with a socket of 21MM) rotate it CLOCKWISE.

Tell your friend, slave or helper to start rotating the crankshaft clockwise, you will notice the screwdriver move either up or down. The point of this is to have the screwdriver reach the highest point...it will reach it..stay there for a little bit and the start moving back out.
have stay at the highest point, this would be TDC or TOP DEAD CENTER
there is also a BDC or BOTTOM DEAD CENTER but we'll use TDC for now.
Top for being when the piston is on the compression place
DEAD for being that even tho the crankshaft still moves, the screw driver would stay in one place
CENTER because you need to find the center between having the screwdriver moving up and the screwdriver comming down. don't worry to much about being PRECISE, you will never be, just make shure is at the highest point before it comes down.

Put the cams on time
remember the intake cam is the I
and the exhaust cam is the E
face them to each other on the center of the head and have the little marks or lines be flat to the head...i like to use a razorblade or any other flat thing to have the line as flat as possible to the head.

After this, start putting the timing belt

lock it on the bottom first

then on the tensioner

then on the intake cam,

then on the exhaust cam
you'll notice it won't wrap on the exhaust cam as easy.

just try to push out the timing belt on the intake cam as much as you can wihtout it falling off...mabe leave 4mm into the cam
aftert that, having it tightly stretched try to put it on the exhaust cam..you'll be able to only do about 4 to 5 teeth, holding the timing belt tightly, use a 14mm wrenche and start rotating the exhaust cam gear CLOCKWISE, after the timing belt wraps all around it , tell your slave to rotate the crankshaft...look at the screw driver and it will go DOWN, then UP again (that's one cycle)
then it will go DOWN, and then UP again..stop at TDC and check the timing on the cams...they have to be VERY close to each other (the I on intake and E on exhaust both have lines in front of the letters, match them and have them flat to the HEAD)
if it checks out, just do two more CYCLES CLOCKWISE and recheck
if they match again..you are set

some cars ask for 12 degrees TDC, but this is done with a light gun and by moving the distributor.

if your car is equiped with a distry, then bring the car to time again (TDC on cylinder one and I and E facing each other) now, insert the distributor and have the brush be facing a 1 that should be printed on the distry...
try to have it as centered as possible on the adjusting bolt...after this
start the car, use a timing gon
ground the timing gun
conenct all sparkplugs and plug wires
connect the other end to the first sparkplug cable
start the car
and point the gun to the crankshaft, have the little yellow line and by moving the distry clockwise or counterclockwise you can move the yellow line from 12 degrees to zero degrees
i, personally, never use a timing gun, i find timing by looking at the RPMs
as they should always be no higher than 900 and no less than 700 with the A/C on and the same with the A/C off.

after that, your done!
 
I know it changes the calibration of the maf sensor. Larger tube means more volume, less velocity. but the question is, how to calibrate the fuel to compensate. The maf readings are different, yes, but they are consistently different. There has to be a way to calibrate the fuel and spark to compensate.
 
an EMS and a MAP sensor would do the trick

or reflashing the ECU in order to be able to compensate for the air
 

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