Fog light mod??
- Thread starter ms6utah
- Start date
Speed6 Guy
Member
- :
- Mazdaspeed 6
Try going to mazda6tech.com there are a lot of good How To things there.
ms64meplease
Member
- :
- 06 ms6
i pulled out the metal blocker thing out and they are sooo much brighter you can actually tell there on when driving. is it good to do i dont know. is it legal most likely not! only one way to find out is to get a citation and be polite "sure officer i will fix it as soon as i get home"
Bluesultan
Member
- :
- Mazdaspeed6, Black Cherry Mica, Born 4/11/06
ms64meplease said:
can you explain this a bit more? thanks.
(From Mazda6 club forum board)
This mod ONLY WORKS FOR V6 MODELS WITH INTEGRATED FOG LAMPS (sport package).
Here are the steps involved:
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. This time it's for real!
2. Disconnect the 2 nuts I've circled in cyan, and remove the 2 terminals from their studs.
3. Detach the wiring harness on the left from the fuse panel. I circled in yellow where it's attached. It can be jiggled free from there. Don't bother disconnecting the connector...that won't help. It's the wires underneath this harness that are holding the panel in the box.
4. Loosen the 4 clips circled in green and lift the fuse panel free of the box. I also had to cut some tape near where I've indicated in orange (edit: I marked the orange area to the left of where I should have...the tape is where the bundle of wires comes in just beneath the main fuse between those two terminals you removed) in order to lift it completly. Once you take these steps, there will still be a whole bunch of wires holding the fuse panel down, but it should now be free enough to do what we need.
5. You need to locate the wire that energizes the fog light relay's coil. This is the terminal indicated as white on the fog light relay, which is indicated as red in my picture. Locate this wire underneath the fuse panel. It was a solid pale green color in my car...I assume it will be the same for yours.
6. Once you locate the proper wire, follow it as far from the relay as you can, and cut it. You need to keep enough length to complete the modification. The wire should eventually lead back into the panel to another relay, but I couldn't trace it that far...it was stuck in a bundle with piece of tape, but I still had enough length. Tape the free end closed, because it will still be energized whenever your headlights are on and high-beams are off.
7. Route this wire over to the top of the panel to the taillight relay indicated in blue. The 'white' terminal is where it needs to go. You can see the wire in my picture if you look closely. I just stripped the end and stuffed it in the appropriate socket before re-inserting the relay.
8. Reassemble everything in the reverse order...you're done. Now test the modification.
One more thing...don't go thinking you can just run a wire between these two relays in order to avoid disconnecting the panel. If you don't cut the existing wire, you will create a short whenever you turn on the high-beams.
Here are the steps involved:
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. This time it's for real!
2. Disconnect the 2 nuts I've circled in cyan, and remove the 2 terminals from their studs.
3. Detach the wiring harness on the left from the fuse panel. I circled in yellow where it's attached. It can be jiggled free from there. Don't bother disconnecting the connector...that won't help. It's the wires underneath this harness that are holding the panel in the box.
4. Loosen the 4 clips circled in green and lift the fuse panel free of the box. I also had to cut some tape near where I've indicated in orange (edit: I marked the orange area to the left of where I should have...the tape is where the bundle of wires comes in just beneath the main fuse between those two terminals you removed) in order to lift it completly. Once you take these steps, there will still be a whole bunch of wires holding the fuse panel down, but it should now be free enough to do what we need.
5. You need to locate the wire that energizes the fog light relay's coil. This is the terminal indicated as white on the fog light relay, which is indicated as red in my picture. Locate this wire underneath the fuse panel. It was a solid pale green color in my car...I assume it will be the same for yours.
6. Once you locate the proper wire, follow it as far from the relay as you can, and cut it. You need to keep enough length to complete the modification. The wire should eventually lead back into the panel to another relay, but I couldn't trace it that far...it was stuck in a bundle with piece of tape, but I still had enough length. Tape the free end closed, because it will still be energized whenever your headlights are on and high-beams are off.
7. Route this wire over to the top of the panel to the taillight relay indicated in blue. The 'white' terminal is where it needs to go. You can see the wire in my picture if you look closely. I just stripped the end and stuffed it in the appropriate socket before re-inserting the relay.
8. Reassemble everything in the reverse order...you're done. Now test the modification.
One more thing...don't go thinking you can just run a wire between these two relays in order to avoid disconnecting the panel. If you don't cut the existing wire, you will create a short whenever you turn on the high-beams.
---Aloha
This mod ONLY WORKS FOR V6 MODELS WITH INTEGRATED FOG LAMPS (sport package).
Here are the steps involved:
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. This time it's for real!
2. Disconnect the 2 nuts I've circled in cyan, and remove the 2 terminals from their studs.
3. Detach the wiring harness on the left from the fuse panel. I circled in yellow where it's attached. It can be jiggled free from there. Don't bother disconnecting the connector...that won't help. It's the wires underneath this harness that are holding the panel in the box.
4. Loosen the 4 clips circled in green and lift the fuse panel free of the box. I also had to cut some tape near where I've indicated in orange (edit: I marked the orange area to the left of where I should have...the tape is where the bundle of wires comes in just beneath the main fuse between those two terminals you removed) in order to lift it completly. Once you take these steps, there will still be a whole bunch of wires holding the fuse panel down, but it should now be free enough to do what we need.
5. You need to locate the wire that energizes the fog light relay's coil. This is the terminal indicated as white on the fog light relay, which is indicated as red in my picture. Locate this wire underneath the fuse panel. It was a solid pale green color in my car...I assume it will be the same for yours.
6. Once you locate the proper wire, follow it as far from the relay as you can, and cut it. You need to keep enough length to complete the modification. The wire should eventually lead back into the panel to another relay, but I couldn't trace it that far...it was stuck in a bundle with piece of tape, but I still had enough length. Tape the free end closed, because it will still be energized whenever your headlights are on and high-beams are off.
7. Route this wire over to the top of the panel to the taillight relay indicated in blue. The 'white' terminal is where it needs to go. You can see the wire in my picture if you look closely. I just stripped the end and stuffed it in the appropriate socket before re-inserting the relay.
8. Reassemble everything in the reverse order...you're done. Now test the modification.
One more thing...don't go thinking you can just run a wire between these two relays in order to avoid disconnecting the panel. If you don't cut the existing wire, you will create a short whenever you turn on the high-beams.
Here are the steps involved:
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. This time it's for real!
2. Disconnect the 2 nuts I've circled in cyan, and remove the 2 terminals from their studs.
3. Detach the wiring harness on the left from the fuse panel. I circled in yellow where it's attached. It can be jiggled free from there. Don't bother disconnecting the connector...that won't help. It's the wires underneath this harness that are holding the panel in the box.
4. Loosen the 4 clips circled in green and lift the fuse panel free of the box. I also had to cut some tape near where I've indicated in orange (edit: I marked the orange area to the left of where I should have...the tape is where the bundle of wires comes in just beneath the main fuse between those two terminals you removed) in order to lift it completly. Once you take these steps, there will still be a whole bunch of wires holding the fuse panel down, but it should now be free enough to do what we need.
5. You need to locate the wire that energizes the fog light relay's coil. This is the terminal indicated as white on the fog light relay, which is indicated as red in my picture. Locate this wire underneath the fuse panel. It was a solid pale green color in my car...I assume it will be the same for yours.
6. Once you locate the proper wire, follow it as far from the relay as you can, and cut it. You need to keep enough length to complete the modification. The wire should eventually lead back into the panel to another relay, but I couldn't trace it that far...it was stuck in a bundle with piece of tape, but I still had enough length. Tape the free end closed, because it will still be energized whenever your headlights are on and high-beams are off.
7. Route this wire over to the top of the panel to the taillight relay indicated in blue. The 'white' terminal is where it needs to go. You can see the wire in my picture if you look closely. I just stripped the end and stuffed it in the appropriate socket before re-inserting the relay.
8. Reassemble everything in the reverse order...you're done. Now test the modification.
One more thing...don't go thinking you can just run a wire between these two relays in order to avoid disconnecting the panel. If you don't cut the existing wire, you will create a short whenever you turn on the high-beams.
---Aloha
Last edited:
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