Of course, I'm glad to help. I am using JL Audio's 500/1 which also has a signal sensing mode, but I couldn't get it to work properly, so I just went with the tried and trued separate 12v REM wiring. It is just one extra wire and it's what I've always done when doing an install. I tapped the remote into the fuse box on an accessory fuse. I don't recall which fuse, it may be in post #1. And like you said, I also don't like extra battery drainage with keeping any power accessory on and it's just generally the proper method. You may know this already, but it's a good habit to run all power/negative cables on one side and all audio cables on the other to prevent interference and whine. All my audio is on the passenger side.
Yup, i followed this idea mostly, but with a small twist. I have the amp under the driver seat, 4ga power wires and remote turn on run under the door jam / kick plate, and the input comes from a LOC taped into the front door speakers pre-bose amp, which runs across the passenger foot well, cross the center stack, then down the center console along the floor under the carpet and pops out near the air vent under the driver seat to the amp. That way they are separated but not run down the passenger side.
Also as noted in a post above, i tapped a fuse for the remote on, can't remember which one, it was on the right side up top, second one down i think. I also grabbed my negative amp connection from a bolt that bolts to the frame right near the fuse box.