Feraceramic clutch

Stou

Member
I have my new feraceramic clutch plate installed since the begining of the week and it work realy fine. The feraceramic disk use a mix of ceramic and carbon (like F1 brake). More you run it hard, more it stick hard.

The thing I realy like with this stuff, it's that I run it with the stock presure plate and even in the hard runing, I don't have any slipping. So the clutch pedal is not harder to use than when it was stuck but I got killer friction. It cost half the price of an ACT clutch kit. ;)
 
I didn't found much on the net about that. I got mine in a local specialize clutch shop.

I found lots of info on ceramic disk but not on feraceramic one.

The big difference between ceramic and feraceramic is that the ceramic one don't make any slipping at all. The feraceramic one can slip a little bit when you ride smooth and the more you ride it hard the less it slip. In order to have a good street riding, we need to get a little slipping for smooth start and smooth driving. The complete ceramic disk is a kind of on/off clutch. It's good for racing but a bit to hard for street use.

Try to look at specialize clutch shop near you. But keep in mind that not every clutch shop know that kind of stuff. I had to ride 2 hour to go to the place I got mine. Local shop around my town didn't know to much about this stuff. If you don't find a place, I can give you the info to contact the place I got mine. They do business via messenger service like DICOM. They are located in SHAWINIGAN, QUEBEC, CANADA.
 
Sounds like a good deal to me.

So how much actually is it?

feraceramic sounds very exotic to me:)

Exotic=Cool:cool:
 
Is it made for street/strip? Any idea of what the life span would be? I am thinking of going with the Clutchmasters stage I or III.

The stage I is a high performance street system with a holding capacity of 70% over stock and uses an organic surface disk.

The stage III is a street/strip application with a holding capacity of 110% over stock and uses a segmented carbon/kevlar surface disk for higher holding capacity and longer life.

I have read that both of these systems are pretty streetable but They say they both have "Smooth Engagement" I really can't see how.

Here is what www.rr-racing.com writes...

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Technical Details

All clutch kits come complete as shown below w/ pressure plate, disc, release bearing, pilot bearing, and centering tool:

STAGE I: Utilizes ~40% stiffer pressure plate for a torque holding capacity of about 280 ft-lbs. Clutchmasters organic disk offers big advantages over the the popular ACT II -- CM uses a stainless steel backing on the organic material to enhance heat transfer away from the friction surface. Recommended for all forms of racing. Well suited for road racing because of smooth engagement.

STAGE III: Same pressure plate as STAGE I, but utilizes special Kevlar disc for enhanced longevity and higher torque capacity. Smooth engagement. Recommended for heavily modified cars and aggressive drag racing.
 
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It cost me $340 cdn, so approx $225 US to get my original disk modified.

Like I wrote earlier, the presure plate is not modified so the clutch pedal is like the original one, not harder to press. The only difference with an original clutch is the friction point. It is a little bit less smooth than the original one when it's hot but not to much.

MP3-Owner, from what I can see of the Clutchmasters kit, the stage III look like my feraceramic disk. They say it's a carbon/kevlar surface disk an mine is a carbon/ceramic surface. I can tell you that with this kind of surface, I realy don't need an heavy duty presure plate. This stuff realy work and with my turbo which I run at 8 psi, my clutch have a hell of a grip!!! :D
 
You said they modified your oiginal disk? Do you mean that they replaced it?
So your disk should last about as long as the CM Stage III disk.
Thanks for the info.
 
They didn't replace the disk, they change the organic surface of the original clutch disk for a feraceramic one. The price don't included the labour to remove and install the disk on the car.

And yes, it will last probably as long as the CM one. They said that it can last a bit longer than a stock clutch disk.
 
MP3-Owner said:
Is it made for street/strip? Any idea of what the life span would be? I am thinking of going with the Clutchmasters stage I or III.

The stage I is a high performance street system with a holding capacity of 70% over stock and uses an organic surface disk.

The stage III is a street/strip application with a holding capacity of 110% over stock and uses a segmented carbon/kevlar surface disk for higher holding capacity and longer life.

I have read that both of these systems are pretty streetable but They say they both have "Smooth Engagement" I really can't see how.

Here is what www.rr-racing.com writes...

----

Technical Details

All clutch kits come complete as shown below w/ pressure plate, disc, release bearing, pilot bearing, and centering tool:

STAGE I: Utilizes ~40% stiffer pressure plate for a torque holding capacity of about 280 ft-lbs. Clutchmasters organic disk offers big advantages over the the popular ACT II -- CM uses a stainless steel backing on the organic material to enhance heat transfer away from the friction surface. Recommended for all forms of racing. Well suited for road racing because of smooth engagement.

STAGE III: Same pressure plate as STAGE I, but utilizes special Kevlar disc for enhanced longevity and higher torque capacity. Smooth engagement. Recommended for heavily modified cars and aggressive drag racing.


I had a Clutchmaster stage 1 in my 94 Probe GT, and it was like Rafi described (that's where I bought it from too. :) ) The engagement was as smooth as stock at low RPM's, and didn't require any extra effort as far as the pedal was concerned. The real difference was the lighter flywheel in combination with the stronger clutch. At higher RPM's that clutch would not slip, at all... I could chirp the third gear shift at anything above 5,000 RPM's. A very streetable clutch though, enough "give" when starting out to not be bothersome in traffic. Anyways, it did great in the PGT, and I would definitely consider getting one for my P5 when the time comes.
 
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So fastdrvr23...You had the 9lb. Flywheel in your PGT? And you found "normal" street driving to be "like stock"? I want to get the 9lb. flywheel and maybe the stage I clutch but I want to retain my daily driving capabilities(stop&go) at the same time.

BTW...Would you recommend www.rr-racing.com ?
 
Yeah, I started off with a lightened factory flywheel, kept that a few weeks, then bought the Fidanza... It makes a difference in how fast your revs build/drop and while shifting between gears... Ie 1st to 2nd, 2nd to 3rd ect... The revs drop off immediately when you push the clutch in to shift gears with the light flywheel. That was the only real thing to get used to... Normally when you shift from 1st to 2nd you don't have to hit the gas much, if at all, on the factory setup... With the lightweight Flywheel you will have to rev back up quickly, as the RPMS drop real fast when you push the clutch in. I ended up putting the factory lightened flywheel (22 down to 18 lbs) back in the car when I sold it, and sold the fidanza to a buddy with another Probe GT. The stage 1 clutchmasters didn't give me any trouble when commuting in heavy traffic. Like I said above though, the main thing was getting used to how quick the revs drop/build... I highly recommend rr-racing. Rafi, the owner, called to check on my order after I received it. Nice guy, and a great product.

I had a hard time deciding between the stage 1 and stage 3 kits also... The kevlar coated disk (stage 3) was better suited to really high performace driving, ie: drag racing, heavily boosted applications, N20, ect... I didn't want a clutch that could actually grip harder than the tranny could handle... The CM stage 1 was a good blend, and gripped hard enough that it NEVER slipped. Anyways, good luck!
 
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