Engine mount check

elderlycoffee

Member
:
2007 Sunlight Silver mazdaspeed 3
I know I ask allot of questions, Sorry.

How can I check to make sure the bolt or whatever is as tight as it should be?
Where should I put a jack on the tranny and can someone show me a picture of the offending bolt?
 
elderlycoffee said:
I know I ask allot of questions, Sorry.

How can I check to make sure the bolt or whatever is as tight as it should be?
Where should I put a jack on the tranny and can someone show me a picture of the offending bolt?

I've been tying to figure this out as well.
 
abun24 said:
I've been tying to figure this out as well.
You need to put a jack under the transmission with a block of wood and jack it up about 1". Then remove the battery and the battery box. Under the battery box the mount is obvious. There is a 19mm bolt in the middle of the mount. It should be torqed to 75 ft-lbs. Even better, remove it, put red loctite, and torque it back down.
 
Please keep in mind that no one has ever said whether the bolt is backing out or if its breaking. If the bolts are backing out then follow the directions above. If the bolts are breaking and shearing off, just drive the piss out of it and wait your turn in line............

If i remember correctly the bolt is grade 10.8 (metric). Thats a higher strength than Grade 8 , (i'm pretty sure).

Best thing you can do in the mean time is when you get an oil change tell the dealer you want them to inspect the bolt free of charge and GO with the mech to check it. OR do it yourself.

My bolt was covered in red locktite and produced in DEC of 06, that still don't mean squat. I check mine after an oil change. it only takes 20-30 min of my day to keep me from having dyas of frustrations. Should i HAVE TO DO IT........... NO........ but until a fix comes out i'll have to make do.
 
I only pay 19.98 out the door for an oil change. i also pay to rotate my tires every oil change (factory tires are super soft and wear fast) since they also only charge 6.41 for a rotation. At 6.00 its not even cost effective for me to break out my jack.
 
I have read that typically they are partially backing out giving enough slop and then shearing off. You must jack up the tranny in order to get the correct torque specs to the bolt and not the resistance of the weight of the tranny. This is a waste of time unless you back the bolt all the way out and use loctite to keep it from backing out again!!
 

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