emisions failed due to not ready for testing

thekrayze

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2007 Mazda 5
i am having an issue with my 2007 mazda 5 2.3L

I am due for inspection and emissions. I am 1 week past so I am trying to resolve this soon.

the check engine light has been on for a little while. the code is p0126 insufficient cooling.
three causes,
thermostat, engine coolant temp sensor, or low coolant.
I ruled out thermostat because the temp gauge moves half way between C and H after a few minutes of driving. (it takes 10 minutes for me to get to work and it heats slowly but surely. I also drive for 45 minutes recently and it never went above half way) also the radiator fan does kick on and shut off normally that I can tell.
I thought temp sensor or low coolant. I did fill the radiator a few time when the engine was cold. I was about to change the temp sensor and the light went off on its own.

now to my issue with the emissions.

2 weeks ago, I disconnected the battery to clear the check engine light.(I am sure that was not a good idea, but I did not know what else to do)
I had my wife drive a few days and I drive the rest. my wife drive it about 10 miles, about 20mins to work one way, at a high of 45mph it was various of 25/35/45mph no more than 5 minutes or each, with stops at red lights every so often.
the other days, I drive it to work, 4 miles, about 10 minutes. mostly 25mph with stop signs, and about 2-3 mins at 40mph.
we racked up about 170 miles this way. the check engine light did not come back on. I took it for an inspection/emissions on feb 1 and the emissions failed because it was Not ready for testing. they said drive some highway. at this time, I had driven about 175 miles. I then drive on the highway to Hershey park. this is about 45 minutes away from me. I drive about 70mph for 30 minutes and about 50mph for 10 minutes. on the way back from Hershey park, the check engine light came on. same code, p0126. I was going to change the temp sensor, but had to wait for Thursday, because I could only do it after work, and Thursday, we had not activities.
on Monday or Tuesday, I filled with gas. about 4.8 gallons which equaled a half a tank. I also added coolant to the radiator Sunday to the point where it overflowed. I squeezed the radiator hose to release any bubbles. after filling up the gas, I drove another 50 miles. I was going to change the temp sensor on thursay evening. I drove to my parents. about 1 mile from my house. it was still 4 miles from my work. I then drove up the hill to the grocery store, about half a mile. when I left the grocery store, the odometer read 50.2 and the check engine light when off. I did not change the temp sensor.
I drove another 20 miles and had the emissions tested to finish my inspection. the emissions failed again because it is not ready for testing.

any suggestions

should I perform another drive cycle to reset the computer? if so, what is the proper drive cycle?

anything else anyone can suggest. I feel like the temp sensor may be ok, but if I should change it, I will. the best day is Tuesday this week and Thursday.

I hope someone can help/

thanks
 
How are you getting the obd trouble code without being able to reset/clear the code? I would replace the thermostat, as it is most likely the cause of your troubles
 
Like what they said, try the thermostat and since you already have the part and can't return it, the temp sensor.
This should solve your problem for the test.
 
Thank you everyone. I will plan to replace the thermostat tomorrow. my local autozone has it for like $31. I will pick it up tomorrow and try. Tomorrow will be a little warmer. I can return the temp sensor, but if I am draining the coolant, I might was well just change both. I am happy to see the link with step to remote the thermostat. I was afraid I would have to remote the tensioner, but I see that it can be done without. that makes it easier for me. I was expecting an hour or 2 worth of work.

Do any of you feel that if I replace the thermostat and the temp sensor, that the computer should then be immediately ready for testing, or will it need a few driving cycles.cold starts?

thanks
 
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How are you getting the obd trouble code without being able to reset/clear the code? I would replace the thermostat, as it is most likely the cause of your troubles

I got the codes from the free check engine check from autozone. their code ready can show me what it is. I think I even remember them being able to get past codes when the light turned off. I have not had them check after the light has gone off this time. they have always told me that they can not clear the codes. do you think that is accurate?

this looks exactly like what they used:
http://www.autozone.com/test-scan-a...autoscanner-plus-with-codeconnect/511731_0_0/
 
Thank you everyone. I will plan to replace the thermostat tomorrow. my local autozone has it for like $31. I will pick it up tomorrow and try. Tomorrow will be a little warmer. I can return the temp sensor, but if I am draining the coolant, I might was well just change both. I am happy to see the link with step to remote the thermostat. I was afraid I would have to remote the tensioner, but I see that it can be done without. that makes it easier for me. I was expecting an hour or 2 worth of work.

Do any of you feel that if I replace the thermostat and the temp sensor, that the computer should then be immediately ready for testing, or will it need a few driving cycles.cold starts?

thanks

The thermostat can be a bit of a pain to get out since the hose clamps can be hard to get off, unless you have really strong fingers or a hose clamp tool. The Autozone tool can clear the code (DTC), but you need to do a driving cycle so that you do your emission testing. Google driving cycle to see what you need to do.
 
Remember also that the ECU has probably been seeing this code for a while, so it may take more than a few driving cycles to completely clear it from the ECU. Even when the MIL (check engine light) isn't on the computer can see that there is a recurring problem, these are referred to as PENDING codes by most of the universal code readers out there. I am not 100% sure if the ECU stores pending codes AFTER the offending part has been replaced/repaired. I hate states that us plug in ECU readers for emissions testing, it makes things so much more difficult....
 
Remember also that the ECU has probably been seeing this code for a while, so it may take more than a few driving cycles to completely clear it from the ECU. Even when the MIL (check engine light) isn't on the computer can see that there is a recurring problem, these are referred to as PENDING codes by most of the universal code readers out there. I am not 100% sure if the ECU stores pending codes AFTER the offending part has been replaced/repaired. I hate states that us plug in ECU readers for emissions testing, it makes things so much more difficult....

I replaced the thermostat and coolant temp sensor last night. The temp sensor was insanely easy. The thermostat was medium. It is very tight in there. I had to remove the belt tensioner to gain access. I was able to remove the three bolts and pull the thermostat down under the car. I also removed the large hose from the radiator first. I tried removing the little hose that connects the thermostat to the radiator, but that was not moving at all. After removing the larger hose from the thermostat, the little hose was easier to get off. Putting the bolts in the lower postiin and the right position were painfully slow. On click on the ratchet at a time. I spent a good 30 mins trying to figure out the serpentine belt. I looked as a mechanics manual for about 15 minuets and the engine the same time.

Coolant took a good 30 minutes to fill, again, slow. The thermosts is the one from advanced auto, a xtant 180 degrees. Took about 15-20 minutes to open. I disconnected the battery to clear all codes lets see what happensd the rest of this week.
 

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