dynod the msp. very informative on gains

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Nissan, Sentra SE-R
Alright guys i dynod the car today. Keep this in mind that it was 97 degrees and about 60% humidity. It was on a dynojet. Stock numbers should be around 145 to the wheels. I did two pulls. Best pull was. drumroll please............. 164whp and 168lbs torque. Thas about a 20whp gain over stock on the hp and over 30lbs torque over stock just with a cone filter and open exhaust. The car is loud but really not that loud and very smooth sounding. Turbo spools almost instanly. Very nice.

The first pull was made in 3rd gear with the motor and intercooler heatsoaked and the fans running. it made 156hp the next was made after the car cooled for about 10 minutes and done in fourth gear and that was the best numbers at the top. Not bad. Let me know what you guys think. Very impressive numbers. and yes the car feels that way. this car is running this way is easily high 14's capable. i think with just a fmic and 2+psi boost it would be a low 14's car if not better and probably put close to 200whp or more on a cooler day.

Oh and i was surprised to see how much this motor moves during load. its a good 2-3 inches that it dips down and back. Whats the best motor mount set to get for our cars.
 
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The full open exhaust only sucks going like 40mph, other than that I liked it. Get rid of the cone filter, put the stock airbox in.
 
I don't see how this is really informative without a before dyno. Depending on the type of dyno you were on and your car you could put down different power. Assuming you have 145 whp stock is incorrect since you have no data.

I put down 160whp stock on a Dynojet.
 
BlkZoomZoom said:
The full open exhaust only sucks going like 40mph, other than that I liked it. Get rid of the cone filter, put the stock airbox in.


is the stock airbox more effecient?
 
TXMazdaSpeeder said:
u should be dyno-ing in 4th gear btw

Not necessarily true. That depends on how old the dyno is and what model number it is. The older dynos will show a big difference between 3rd and 4th. Newer dyno's can use the RPM and speed sensors to determine what gear ratio it should be using. I have a numerical printout from my last batch of runs that shows the gear ratio and how it differs as you make a pull or switch gears.

PseudoSpeed said:
is the stock airbox more effecient?

No, but....

1) The stock airbox theorhetically won't pull in heat like a cone filter that is sitting in the stock location will.

And...

2) Blkzoomzoom LOVES his stock s***, lol.

Mallard said:
I don't see how this is really informative without a before dyno. Depending on the type of dyno you were on and your car you could put down different power. Assuming you have 145 whp stock is incorrect since you have no data.

I put down 160whp stock on a Dynojet.

I agree 100%.

I could easily take the lowest MSP dyno that I have seen posted (about 135whp), and then base my gains on that and say I have gained 142whp from my mods and more than doubled the stock output... but I don't. Conditions, the car, and most importantly the dyno itself have a lot to do with what kind of numbers you will see. The only REAL comparison you can do is with the SAME car, SAME dyno, and similar conditions.
 
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Mallard said:
I don't see how this is really informative without a before dyno. Depending on the type of dyno you were on and your car you could put down different power. Assuming you have 145 whp stock is incorrect since you have no data.

I put down 160whp stock on a Dynojet.

For one there are alot of conditions that can make a difference. For example, what were the temps like when you dynod, your boost is more along the lines of 7psi as mine is around 5-5.5. as you should know these cars vary in boost psi. I can tell you that if the temps were in the low 70's or below and let the car cool 20 minutes or so, the intake temps would be 70's instead of about 110 or so if not more. Just the difference from driving the car at night with the temps around 80-85 with still 70% humidity the difference is incredible. With temps what they should be in the 70's or cooler the hp would have been probably around 175 to the wheels and even more tq. You have to play in the conditions. All i said is that most stock msp's that are in the boost level of 5-6psi or so dyno around 145-150. At 7psi it would be about 155-160 especially with cooler temps.
 
mazdaspeed/se-r said:
For one there are alot of conditions that can make a difference. For example, what were the temps like when you dynod, your boost is more along the lines of 7psi as mine is around 5-5.5. as you should know these cars vary in boost psi. I can tell you that if the temps were in the low 70's or below and let the car cool 20 minutes or so, the intake temps would be 70's instead of about 110 or so if not more. Just the difference from driving the car at night with the temps around 80-85 with still 70% humidity the difference is incredible. With temps what they should be in the 70's or cooler the hp would have been probably around 175 to the wheels and even more tq. You have to play in the conditions. All i said is that most stock msp's that are in the boost level of 5-6psi or so dyno around 145-150. At 7psi it would be about 155-160 especially with cooler temps.

Your assumptions in this post are well thought out and most likely true, but you made no mention of your boost level in the original post that people are commenting on.
 
sorry i forgot to mention. The boost level is 5.5psi. Im guessing i need to get a fmic. the hardpipes should up that boost level. The stock pipes expand like balloons. its pretty cool.
 
mazdaspeed/se-r said:
i do want to get a boost guage to see what boost level mine is running.

How can you say your boost is at 5.5psi when you said this in your first post? Is this another assumption?

The type of dyno will have the most influence on the power you put down. Claiming gains because you assumed a base HP means nothing. It's like opening a K&N Filter box, seeing the "up to 20HP gain" written on it, and saying I have 190 HP now! You can only compare power levels when you have before and after.

The dyno I was on had a weather station that corrects for temperature and pressure. I had a boost sensor installed and datalogged vs. rpm during the dyno pull and my boost peaked at 7 psi at 3500 rpm then tapered continuously until redline when it was just below 5 psi.
 
I did a third gear pull then a 4th gear pull right after and the numbers were pretty much the same.
 
Mallard said:
How can you say your boost is at 5.5psi when you said this in your first post? Is this another assumption?

Its called a guage. that was posted soon after i dynod. And for one most all msp's boost around 5-5.5psi with a spike to 7 or so. mine does the same. you can feel it spike and drop down. So even if i wanted to assume i would most likely be correct. yes mine does what most msp's do. very quick spike to 7 then quickly drops to 5.5psi. Sorry. I should have edited that post.
 
WELL DONT MEAN TO BURST A BUBBLE, but when i dynoed my car stock on a Mustang dyno (of all dyno types) i got 173 whp and 154.3 lb feet at 4.5-6.7 psi . that was stock nothing modded. i have cai and boost controller set at 9lbs -wonders what he'd pull now.....

-dave
 
these cars with more boost pull, i wish i could turn it up to about 15 psi, cause i saw a video of a msp with little to no mods running race gas and 15 psi and beat an evo from a roll...... what a pimp yeah msp booo toooooooooning........

take it easy
-dave
 
SOunds like azian6ers video. In which he has like every mod, lol.
 
He might be talking about Discreet's old video back when he was running race gas and 15+psi. If that is the case though, he had a cutout, intake, and iON FMIC at that point.
 
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