DYNO'd my new DSM AFC!!!!!
- Thread starter genius
- Start date
DSMConvert
AWD...say Bye Bye
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- Titanium MS6
woot, glad to hear genius. Yes the AFC is very very very sensitive in values, hehe. YOu also brought up a good point about making sure you have the settings correct, this does make a huge difference. I richened up your map pretty darn good, so its no suprise it ran as rich as it did, but after reading your post it seems that perhaps having the maf on the pressure side doesn't change the fuel curve that much...
DiscreetSpeed
Member
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- 03 MSP
pimp
DSMConvert said:
The preloaded map was a very good safe map. The dyno guy even said that whoever I bought it from must be very reputable.
The only complaint he had was that the resolution (500 rpm increments) was not what he was used to. He does a lot of Honda's using a system called "Hondata" or something like that that had much tighter resolution.
But in my opinion, the resolution was fine. I guess that is one of the differences between $300 and $800 investment in an EMS.
The preloaded map is safe for boost levels of 9psi and lower, but I think safe is a relative term. When I tested the supermap with my wideband the upper RPM levels were in the 13:1 range, which to me isn't safe, but DSMConvert says that it is safe. For peace of mind, I richened up my map and got it to be 12.5:1 max. Once I up my boost to ~9 psi I'll do another dyno pull to see where I'm at.genius said:
EDIT: I might do some theoretical dyno runs with my Auterra. It would be nice to actually get it working since it is a feature of the software and I haven't used it yet. Now with some true dyno results, I know what to expect and how to tweak the settings to get it right.
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livelyjay said:
12.5 isn't safe for me. I guess I am ultra concervative. I tuned mine for 11.8 with a 12.2 spike in the middle.
What is an Auterra? Also, since we are on the subject, is there a way to get the chart recorder to record the O2 sensor? If you open the chart recording in Kelly 2.zip, all I got was boost, RPM, and what appeared to be correction factor?
peepsalot said:
No and no. I removed the FCD when I installed the AFC. And I am not hitting fuel cut at all and quite frankly, I can't imagine how I would. Throughout the entire range of RPM's from about 1.5 psi to 10, the MAF is corrected down by some degree. Also, I dynoed on a really cold day.
As for the IAT, it is tucked cheasily under the cone filter
flat_black
Member
Urm, don't tune for too rich... You'll end up losing a good deal of power, and wasting lots of fuel, and I'm pretty certain your car won't blow up at all sitting a full 2 degrees of ratio below the stoich 14.7:1. I would say going between 12-13:1 would be better than sitting down closer to 11 or 10.
livelyjay said:
See... that is what I don't understand. Something might not be right about my setup but I can't imagine what it is. I did notice a damaged coupler on my piping. It was rubbing the tip of a screw that was sticking up from my battery box. The same screw that used to support the MAF. But it is not a clean break and if you look at my datalog, my boost ramps up strong and then jitters slightly around 9ish to 10.
I suppose I could turn the MBC to 11 PSI and jitter around 10?
My exhaust is still 2.5. It is just completely opened. I didn't want to go with a 3" because at the time, I was concerned about maintaining some back pressure for the valve springs and quite frankly, I really hate the sound of a pissed off bumble bee that usually comes out of a 3 inch exhaust.
I also haven't messed with the S-pipe for two reasons, first, I may know a lot about cars, but I am not a good mechanic, I tend to make a lot of mistakes (strip bolts ect), secondly, I never imagined it would really make that much of a difference.
So something is holding me back, I just don't know what... The only thing I can do at this point is just move forward.
DSMConvert
AWD...say Bye Bye
- :
- Titanium MS6
genius firs thing you should do is test for boost leaks...this is the cause 80% of the time on cars...
DSMConvert said:
Besides being slightly lean on the very low end, I don't recall reporting any problems.... did I?
EDIT: Oh you might be talking about the fact the my AFC doesn't agree with my boost guage? No I really don't think I have a boost leak. For the most part it seems fairly steady. It may dip .5 psi on the datalog for a brief instance.
My only slight issue is that my boost guage reads a solid 10 and the AFC reads a fairly solid 9. I really should have cross-checked the guage to the AFC and turned it up while I was on the dyno. If I turn it up now, do I really need to go back to the dyno? I mean, if I keep the numbers linear on the map it should be ok right?
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Seems like you need more tuning. Is your ECU flashed or not? What octane gas are you running? I'm particularly not a fan of the pressurized MAF mod, you need to put the IAT sensor back in the intake tract for a more precise reading. It affects how the PCM adds or pulls timing according to intake temp.
I hit 181 with non flashed ECU, K&N air filter, hot side hardpipe, catless test pipe, iridium plugs, @ 9 psi, stock air box and exhaust on a 248C dynojet.
For what you are running you are down on power especially at a decent AFR.
I hit 181 with non flashed ECU, K&N air filter, hot side hardpipe, catless test pipe, iridium plugs, @ 9 psi, stock air box and exhaust on a 248C dynojet.
For what you are running you are down on power especially at a decent AFR.
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JDM Sam said:
I just now ordered a replacement silicone coupler. It looks like it is damaged. Though I don't think it is leaking because my boost is somewhat steady but we will see what happens.
I personnaly like the pressurized MAF mod. The readings are more synominous with what is actually coming into the TB and also, if I blow a pipe, the car will still run.
Also, I am flashed.
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genius said:
2.5" should be fine for that power level. Don't worry about back-pressure; pushing the turbine in the turbo takes care of that. You want the exhaust as open as possible for the most power.
The MSP definitely does not sound like a pissed off bumble bee with 3". I have 3" from the DP back and it sounds more like a pissed off rottweiler, haha. I really want to get the CS S/J combo sometime, I just need to find the time to pull the turbo to get it installed.
