Dyno pull results

[Vord]

Hold on a minute now. IF your AFR is reading 14+, that sounds like a problem to me. I don't know much about tuning or any of that s***, but everyone says that anything higher than 12 (safely is around mid 11s) will start causing detonation problems.

Someone else chirp in? an answer for this would be greatly appreciated!

 

[dkswim]

im taking it as 14 then he roled into the throttle then it dropped into the 10s once it started making boost. psi seems low i dont know if car was loded up enough on the dyno. and as far as aftermarket BPV, if your running cobb AB car runs better and faster with stock BPV. my car runns faster-holds more boost with stock valve compared to forge was running blue plus 2 shims car drove like poo than changed back to stock and car flew.

 

[BluMicaR]

As to intake/inlet temps he had a wire on my Cobb SRI and the inlet temps were 110* before he started, they were getting up there after that. I think it was pretty heat soaked. He had a weather thing in the shop and it said it was 77* out but I told him to adjust that. He wouldn't and said it adjusted on its own... Weather.com is where I got my stats, I know it wasn't 77 as I was sweating my bawls off and the car was telling me 96* on the way home.

I don't have an AP, check the sig I'm sorry if it's confusing... I'm waiting until someone has solutions for my setup to spend that $700.

It was 14 at the start and went down from there. I will scan my sheets tomorrow; it was a long weekend (engaged, arguing; meh), I forgot my sheets at home this morning.

Appreciate everybody's comments too!

 

[Young Roids]

Ahhh. I see so no ap. I didn't read the sig correctly at first.

 

[Nachtsturm]

I'll get pdfs posted Monday; I am sorely disappointed. IN fact someone s*** in my Cheerios.

92* ambient/outside temp
60% humidity

3 pulls, first in 4th, 2 and 3 in 5th as tech guy said that was my 1:1, hood closed fans in front, but it wasn't those massive fans, it was the 15" tall or so fans with a little long oval outlet sort of 'aimed' fan.

It was a Dyno Dynamics dyno.

DSC off b/c the tech said w/o traction assist off, I don't know, 'machine goes nutty' or some s***. Can ya tell I'm a sad panda yet?

Here's why:
I pulled 227.3hp on the best pull (I just have a printout of the 3rd pull).

That pull also yielded 319tq at 4000rpms.

12psi boost at 3400rpms curve to max of 13psi at 4100rpms back to 12psi at 5100rpms.

a/f 14 @ 3000rpms about a 45* angle downsloping curve until 10.5 @ 5500rpms and drop.

Somebody hearten me back to health. Look at my mods list. WTF happened?!

Don't fret.

When I had my third SRT-4, I had a drop in filter, stage 2 w/o toys, and mopar catback. I dyno'ed at a mere 244whp and 278 tq and my a/f were off the chart rich,

And people have seen 230whp out of a stock SRT before. I took it to the track and went 13.6@107.

I knocked off 4-5 tenths, and added 3-4mph from stock.

Don't worry about whp numbers, worry about track numbers. A dyno is a tuning tool. That is it.

 

[BluMicaR]

Don't fret.

When I had my third SRT-4, I had a drop in filter, stage 2 w/o toys, and mopar catback. I dyno'ed at a mere 244whp and 278 tq and my a/f were off the chart rich,

And people have seen 230whp out of a stock SRT before. I took it to the track and went 13.6@107.

I knocked off 4-5 tenths, and added 3-4mph from stock.

Don't worry about whp numbers, worry about track numbers. A dyno is a tuning tool. That is it.

I need to get to the track, I've never been. My stock tires are still on and they fricking look terrible, I'm so close to the nodules/indicators. I'm at 16k, I imagine I can squeeze maybe 4k more out before I need to drop $500 on some new treads. Firestone/Generic JDM brand ftw! Hehe.

 

[builthatch]

I need to get to the track, I've never been

x2.

unless another ms3 was there on that day making pulls, or a similar car...don't worry about the dyno numbers. check out the curve, and then go to the track. regardless of tires, if the car is cooled off and it's not extremely hot, you can get a pretty good idea of the power of your car via the trap speed (at the bare min).

 

[BluMicaR]

Bump

I forgot my sheets still - I WILL remember tomorrow.

 

[340CID]

I'd have to agree with the ones who are commenting that it matters at the track, not at the dyno.

So what if your dyno sheet says you've got 378whp. If you never take it to the track to use the 378whp isn't having 305whp just as relevant? Just because your car could have 378whp doesn't mean the driver knows how to use it.... in fact, it's usually the opposite There are great drivers out there who could take a car with 305whp and have faster lap times then some ding-dong who doesn't have a clue about tweaking an engine or how to use all that whp (ie: pays a shop to tune it and has no interest knowing how it's tuned but just pays the bill) but shows up to the track thinking just because he has the highest hp car on the track, that he's the king. How many people add a bunch of mods to their car yet never use them for what the mods are intended for?

All these people who are bummed out that their car has 233whp instead of 235whp should consider taking a (performance) driving course since you'll only be able to use the 'extra' 2whp if you know how to drive.

 

[BluMicaR]

I'd have to agree with the ones who are commenting that it matters at the track, not at the dyno.

So what if your dyno sheet says you've got 378whp. If you never take it to the track to use the 378whp isn't having 305whp just as relevant? Just because your car could have 378whp doesn't mean the driver knows how to use it.... in fact, it's usually the opposite There are great drivers out there who could take a car with 305whp and have faster lap times then some ding-dong who doesn't have a clue about tweaking an engine or how to use all that whp (ie: pays a shop to tune it and has no interest knowing how it's tuned but just pays the bill) but shows up to the track thinking just because he has the highest hp car on the track, that he's the king. How many people add a bunch of mods to their car yet never use them for what the mods are intended for?

All these people who are bummed out that their car has 233whp instead of 235whp should consider taking a (performance) driving course since you'll only be able to use the 'extra' 2whp if you know how to drive.

I got your gist; that said I'm new to all this, I had a 94 TBird V8 for a long time and ran an '89 Volvo into the ground before my Mazda exposure. I would love some track time, hasn't opened an opportunity yet with me family/woman/kid responsibilities, but we've been talking about it. LOL, and her with her little Civic 'Si' OOOoooo... Scary. Hehe.

But nevertheless I always hear/read/see dyno stuff and I wanted to try my own little gal at a pull, results see above. (second)

 

[blacksheepms3]

and as far as aftermarket BPV, if your running cobb AB car runs better and faster with stock BPV. my car runns faster-holds more boost with stock valve compared to forge was running blue plus 2 shims car drove like poo than changed back to stock and car flew.

i can attest to that. I have a tbe for 3 months now, I recently switched back to stock bpv after using forge and the car stopped hesitating on hard pulls. Before it would cut boost or fuel and i would get thrown forward at around 5k, but that doesnt happen now after changing back to stock bpv. I hit 6k now and it doesnt feel like losing power. and oh yeah, no smoking or cel too. (dance)

 

[Vord]

i can attest to that. I have a tbe for 3 months now, I recently switched back to stock bpv after using forge and the car stopped hesitating on hard pulls. Before it would cut boost or fuel and i would get thrown forward at around 5k, but that doesnt happen now after changing back to stock bpv. I hit 6k now and it doesnt feel like losing power. and oh yeah, no smoking or cel too. (dance)

Other people have had this issue before, Their is a thread on it somewere and how to fix it. I suggest you do so, as our stock valve likes to leak alot.

 

[ericrapp]

i can attest to that. I have a tbe for 3 months now, I recently switched back to stock bpv after using forge and the car stopped hesitating on hard pulls. Before it would cut boost or fuel and i would get thrown forward at around 5k, but that doesnt happen now after changing back to stock bpv. I hit 6k now and it doesnt feel like losing power. and oh yeah, no smoking or cel too. (dance)

I was not paying enough attention . Do you have Cobb ap?

 

[Supermex]

the tq numbers look nice, I just got my MS3 did 2 mods:
Injen CAI and Mazdaspeed cat back I got it dyno with only 25k miles and I got some decent numbers 270 whp and 280 wtq i live in Florida and is very hot and humid.
I only wish I had the same tq numbers.
What do you guys think?
here is my sheet.

 

[BluMicaR]

View attachment MS3 Dyno.pdf

 

[patty AT forge]

i can attest to that. I have a tbe for 3 months now, I recently switched back to stock bpv after using forge and the car stopped hesitating on hard pulls. Before it would cut boost or fuel and i would get thrown forward at around 5k, but that doesnt happen now after changing back to stock bpv. I hit 6k now and it doesnt feel like losing power. and oh yeah, no smoking or cel too. (dance)

One of two things is happening here:

1. Leak. Check that the cap is tight on the valve, check all boost lines, make sure that the recirc tube is sealing against the outlet port of the valve.

2. Our valve is doing its job and not leaking. The volume of air reaching the engine is increased and the amount of fuel required is beyond what the fuel pump is capable of supplying.

Honestly it is probably #2...

 

[Young Roids]

Supermex, those are great numbers for just an intake considering a catback doesn't make power on our cars. I am becoming sceptical of dynos though since you see my stock dynojet and I don't think I will gain 20hp with an intake. Who really knows!?!?

 

[ericrapp]

One of two things is happening here:

1. Leak. Check that the cap is tight on the valve, check all boost lines, make sure that the recirc tube is sealing against the outlet port of the valve.

2. Our valve is doing its job and not leaking. The volume of air reaching the engine is increased and the amount of fuel required is beyond what the fuel pump is capable of supplying.

Honestly it is probably #2...

The valve works as it should for me. And I have found that stock intercooler tubes are not so good. Upgrade. with an increase in flow from my mods, other issues crept up based on the ECU trying to adjust. I do not have control of the fuel and timing yet. But the fuel delivery looks as if it is the culprit. Nice to hear you are still around to help, Patty.

 

[blacksheepms3]

One of two things is happening here:

1. Leak. Check that the cap is tight on the valve, check all boost lines, make sure that the recirc tube is sealing against the outlet port of the valve.

2. Our valve is doing its job and not leaking. The volume of air reaching the engine is increased and the amount of fuel required is beyond what the fuel pump is capable of supplying.

Honestly it is probably #2...

the hesitation on come about after i put in a dp to have a complete tbe. before when i was just a dp-back the car felt great with no hesitation. but after the dp went in the car begun to hesitate at 4.5k When i put back the stock bpv the symptoms disappear. So are you saying that by gettin rid of the back pressure the turbo is able to spool faster and i end up having more boost that the fuel pump cant keep up? before dp i spike 20psi and settle at 16, after tbe i spike 21 and settle at 16 (also) 1psi makes a difference if either the car runs out of fuel or not?

 

[justa4banger]

Gents a word of experience being passed on...... unless you get a baseline on a dyno and then use that EXACT SAME dyno to measure your mods you will never know what mods made what hp.

Now for my SVO i did over 40 pulls in a month and a half. i was testing cams for a guy. i have my baseline runs with a setup and then i change the cam and ran the dyno, rinse, repeat..........7 more times. this is the best way to see your gains on a dyno. with that said, i used a dynojet dyno that has a HISTORY of reading a wee bit low when compared to other dyno's. But i have the proof Plus the time slips to back up the HP the SVO was making. the 438whp in the sig is every bit true....... not shabby on a 30+year old engine design with cast crank and rods.

This dyno graph shows the difference in power, with different mods, for my SVO in the course of a year. i didn't have the final dyno graph to add in (438whp) but its close enough .