Dyno Of Stock P5

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Woody

If any of you want to see what the dyno for a stock Protege5 with about 1,000 miles on it looks like - see below. Peak hp is 105 at the wheel.

- Woody
 

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Papa Woody,

Thanx for sharing the dyno chart. Is that stick or auto?

I'm borrowing my buddy's G-tech tomarrow. He bought it for $130. It paid for itself after a couple runs versus dynoing for $75 a pop. It gives HP, 0-60, 60-0, 1/4 time, and lateral Gs. It's sweet. I practiced in my 87 VW Fox and had a better than expected 15.33 sec @ 95.5 mph. The HP stock is 81 and then 76 at the wheels now. Now every 1/4 mile strip is considered safe. Dynoing in a laboratory environment forgets one major thing: drag. The only thing I wish the G-tech had is somehow transferring the data so it could be all official like to post results. Tomarrow I'll tell you how I fair in my automatic Pro5 with ~4000 miles and the K&N drop in filter.
 
Sorry, but any info you get from a G-Tech can hardly be called official. Official should be used in the same sentence as accurate. The G-Tech isn't something that someone should call accurate.
 
Guys,

Yeah sorry - this is manual transmission.

Carl, if you can, post what you get from the G-Tech so we can compare.

RE: Torque & RPM - I don't know. When I dyno my sport bikes (at a different shop) I usually see HP & Torque over RPM. But it seems that with Cars you see MPH, not RPM - I don't know why. As far as torque, not sure why I did not get this. I'll ask my dyno shop when I dyno again (after my AEM Short Ram install - probably in a couple weeks).

I do know that really all the dynojet machines measure is torque - hp is extrapulated by the computer based on torque. In short, it just does some math based on torque to get hp.

- Woody
 
this is GREAT information....glad someone finally dyno'ed their car BEFORE they did mods....seems its a question ask all the time...and no one truely had the answer. NOW we do. Thanks!!
 
About the G-tech, I agree with Apex that those things are not exactly accurate. My friend has one and we used it in my car (basicly stock auto P5) and guessed the weight of me and him and the car all together was about 3200, put that in and it told me I had 175 HP at the wheels. :rolleyes:
 
311Mazda said:
About the G-tech, I agree with Apex that those things are not exactly accurate. My friend has one and we used it in my car (basicly stock auto P5) and guessed the weight of me and him and the car all together was about 3200, put that in and it told me I had 175 HP at the wheels. :rolleyes:

oh wow...you got the High Output engine in yours huh? LOL :{D

those things are just for "in the ballpark" numbers...nothing truely accurate...and although the numbers you got were OBVIOUSLY way off....I have seen some people use it and get fairly consistant and decently close numbers after they took their car to a REAL dyno....I guess its just a shot in the dark. :D
 
Oh yeah, don't get me wrong I didn't mean to knock it or anything, but you have to be very scientific with it if you want scientific awancers. Get the cars weight perfect, drive on totally flat surfaces, and there is something about how you position it...it's hard to get totally level. But they sure do look cool with all those flashing lights!! :D
 
Ahh yes, the wonderful G-Tech.
I have had one for about 3 years now, and let me tell you... don't trust a damn thing it says. The last time I used it in my truck, it said I ran the 1/4 mile in 13.3 Seconds. It would be a cold day in hell that I ever run anything under mid 14's in the truck.

At any rate, it is pretty cool to watch all the lights blink like 311 said... lol. If you really want to know your car's potential, find a dragstrip nearby and ask when their next test and tune date is. Good luck!
 
Why don't all the dynos show RPM in the X axis instead of MPH? I've seen a lot of dynos use RPM...but MPH is useless to me.
 
Sir Nuke said:


oh wow...you got the High Output engine in yours huh? LOL :{D

those things are just for "in the ballpark" numbers...nothing truely accurate...and although the numbers you got were OBVIOUSLY way off....I have seen some people use it and get fairly consistant and decently close numbers after they took their car to a REAL dyno....I guess its just a shot in the dark. :D

Hehe, even a broken watch gets to be correct twice a day. :D

I've heard a lot of bad stuff about the G-Tech as well....it may give you an idea....but if it's not accurate, then really what is the point? :(
 
This Just In, 18 sec @ 78 mph, NOT a fast Quarter Mile E.T.

I test at the usual industrial park near my house. The G-tech has been pretty consistent to me. Here are the disappointing results:
(using a half a tank of gas @ 5 lbs/gal with driver 3030 lbs

whp 90
0-60 10.46 sec
60-0 130 feet
1/4 18.03 sec @ 78.3 mph
skidpad (I'm not that crazy...yet)

I have <5000 miles on it. It's an auto with only the K&N drop in filter, removed air muffler, 93 octane, and 2 bottles of 108.

Go ahead, diss the G-tech. I didn't buy it. About its accuracy/precision: ify at best. I say it pays for itself after a couple runs, since dynoing is ~$75. :p
 
I used the 2 bottles of 108 on a rag to huff whilst dragstrippin'

I'm just experimenting. I figured it was worth a shot. When I get down to 1/4 tank, I'll put some 87 in and G-tech it again. I'll have to be running 87 for a while, since I'm broker than a joke. That 93 is a bit steep for $25 a tank.

I don't know about you, but I think I might run better on 87. I think the high compression ratio and of course the ECU was mapped for the recommended 87 octane. With higher octane, maybe the pistons are working against each other a little bit? I'm not going to disconnect the battery this time because I like where my presets are (on my radio, that is). Until later...:p
 
Carl,

My P5 calls regualar unleaded, 87 octane. Believe it or not Octane number represents the resistance to ignition. You will get better performance from 87 octane. You should only go to higher octane if you get engine knocks.

- Woody
 
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