Dual Valve-- Forge BOV/stock BPV How-To+ pics

So how are you finding your dual setup after having it installed for awhile? I am starting to think that this might be a good alternative setup for a bpv/bov instead of mounting a bov near the throttle body as several people on the forum have done (then you don't have to buy hardpipes). One guy mentioned using a hybrid valve, but I think you can essentially build your own using the stock bpv and an adjustable aftermarket bov. I know you used different length vaccuum hoses to delay the bov, but perhaps tightening the spring on a bov might allow enought delay. Any thoughts? Oh, this would be done all in the name of turkey killing!
 
So where exactly does that T connector go. Between the cold pipe and bov. Then the last side for the bpv.???
 
still no camera. ok, hotside pipe has a tee going out of it. forge on one end, stocker on other. its not too hard. Both get hooked up,. I dont even think a picture can make it clearer than that. Also, you may need additional hose for the BPV to intake hose depending on exactly where you end up with after fitment. Clamp everything together with the usual silicone and worm clamp treatment and enjoy. If your valve is opening too soon or too late do whatever you want to adjust it. Change the spring, the length of the hose, whatever. Every car will be a bit different.
 
What are the differences beween a long vac hose as opposed to a short one? I've already tried changing the spring with a yellow one... all I got was more turkey.
 
ok how can you guys not figure this out. theres a T.. one end goes into the hardpipe, one end facing down has the stock BPV on it with the hose recirculating, the other end goes straight towards the firewall and has the Forge BOV on it. Hook em up however you want. For my car i needed a short line going to the BPV, a longer line going to the BOV. Get a longer or shorter hose for the recirculation from the BPV depending on what kind of setup you have. I made it fancy by using a 3 way vacume line fitting before, I think thats whats confusing you guys so just give em each a vac source. If you dont have enough vac sources, build a vac block out of parts from the hardware store that has like 3 or 4 vac ports. pm byhondspeed if you need more info on the vac block.
 
also, the vac source that you use will have an effect on when/how either valve works. Make sure you have a better vac source on the BPV or make the BOV vac line longer to compensate. still have no camera and i sold my BOV to a buddy so no pics til my new valve gets here. probobly just gonna grab another forge or something else that will work ez if its local.
 
Jeff, On low rpms like when i'm pulling into my drive way the car shakes like crazy almost like if its about to stall. I can feel it on the drivers side, almost kind of like a feeling of going over a road full of rocks or a harsh road, put it at that. SO, this dual venting will help me from stalling and help it from leaking "blowing off" on the highway??
 
Edit** I'll take a picture of my set-up...Cause during idle its fine and no problems, no dipping in rpms either. Its sometimes when I'm turning I dunno maybe my driving or something...
 
Since you tapped the line going to the brake booster for the vac source ... did you just run the vac line on top of the mani to the wastegate?

Also, did you have a breather on your car or did you "t" the line coming from the intake to the head?
 
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do you have solid motor mounts? Is one of your stock mounts broken? I hae a sold front tranny mount and a slightly ripped/broken rear tranny mount and I get the same thing as you are describing even with everything stock again. dont have the dual setup anymore as i am going for stock appearing now but i dont think it will help with what you are describing.
 
I still had the line going from the valve cover to the intake. You will not pass a roadside emmissions test without that line on. Ive tried with it off and put a breather on and never really noticed a difference so I put it back to stock.
 
So did you have the line on top of the mani that goes to the stock bpv and wastegate going directly to the wastegate?
 
something i don't get,

why use dual setups ?

i plan on putting a BOV and relocating my maf..

wouldn't that just do it ?

just asking, not flaming here.
 
fr0st said:
something i don't get,

why use dual setups ?

i plan on putting a BOV and relocating my maf..

wouldn't that just do it ?

just asking, not flaming here.

Good question, answer anyone?? I would like to know myself.

Also, Has anybody tried the dual setup with success. I'm sick of having my Forge bleed around 130km and playing with the gas. Would relocating the MAF fix this?? If you relocated the MAF, does everything else stay the same or do other things have to be moved also. What is the best bet? Dual setup or relocated MAF??

Thanks and sorry for the 1001 questions. I just don't want to jump into anything I'm not certain of.
 
well i didnt compare it to the maf relocation but i figured most would be able to realize it is not as good as the sensor isnt as precise since air is still getting leaked after its readings have been calculated by the stock ecu. not flaming.



i plan on putting a BOV and relocating my maf..

wouldn't that just do it ?

just asking, not flaming here.

no flaming needed. I have had every sensible sensor/pipe setup. The dual setup is not as good as maf meter relocation. Its the path to take if you are not interested in an aftermarket IC to TB pipe. For the time I had this setup I was not using a aftermarket IC to TB pipe with my FMIC setup since the IC to TB hardpipe shows no dyno proven results or real world results for me. That and I had my methenol injection setup on my aftermarket IC to TB pipe and didnt have it in all the time so I would just stick the stocker back on since it looked nicer than my butcher sealing job on the methenol injection needle..

383561_59_full.jpg
 
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So Jeff,
I have the TurboHoses setup and I'm sick of almost stalling at red lights and bleeding BOV after 130 km/h. What do you recommand sense you've tried most setups?? I just want my car to be driveable but I don't want to lose the swoooosh sound (I'm a kid at heart).

Thanks!!

P.S. Are you on TOprotege.com?? if so, whats ur nick??
 

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