DP Gains: 21+whp / 41+wtq = 284whp/322wtq

speedi3

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07 MS3 GT - Silver
Here's the results after a DP mod. All other listed mods in the signature where present on the past dyno. Its VERY lean now and I need tuning badly, needless to say I will not be driving hard until I get EMS. I was pleased with the results. (drive)



I'd like to see or hear of other results from people with full TBE exhaust as I have only changed the DP and midpipe. I also used 4 washers in the BOV. Not sure if that made a difference as well.
 

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Here's the results after a DP mod. All other listed mods in the signature where present on the past dyno. Its VERY lean now and I need tuning badly, needless to say I will not be driving hard until I get EMS. I was pleased with the results. (drive)



I'd like to see or hear of other results from people with full TBE exhaust as I have only changed the DP and midpipe. I also used 4 washers in the BOV. Not sure if that made a difference as well.



Did you dyno your car with just the race pipe and if so were you running lean then or have you just started running lean since adding the downpipe to it? Thanks.

Rob
 
Do you have a dyno sheet that you can post with just the race pipe? I'd like to compare the AF ratio before and after the DP install if I could.

I don't have one with just the RP. the other dyno has tmic, cai, bov & rp. this last one just includes the dp.

If you look the post it has both before and after results.
 
uummmm it doesnt look very lean to me.... looks pretty good actually. it starts off with a stoich ratio "which it should " then it looks like it hovers around 12:1 then dips to like 10:1 at the end of the graph. if anything a tuner would lean out the parts that are still rich !!
 
I hate to break this to you guys, but you can't tell if the car is running lean unless there's actually values listed on the AFR graph. Some tuners put a "red line" around stoich 14.7:1, others put it around 13:1, others put it around 12:1. If you can tell me what the "red line" in the AFR column signifies as far as AFR goes, I can tell you if you're running lean. Me personally, on an inline 4 cylinder w/forged internals I prefer to tune around 12:1 tapering down to around 11.5:1 in the upper RPMs. On something like a 2.0L Subaru WRX, a boxer motor w/cast internals, I would recommend tuning between 11.2-11.5:1 as the extra fuel is needed to cool the heads because boxer motors have an inherent trait of retaining more heat than inlines.

Unless you actually have values for your AFR's, there's no way you can tell just how rich/lean the car is running, unless everyone else just knows what that "red line" signifies on this particular dyno. To be clear I'm talking about the completely straight line that starts at the beginning of the graph, not your "after" AFR graph line.

If you have the run file(s), you can email it to me, I'll put it on WinPEP 7, and repost it with your exact AFR's, so you can see if it's actually running lean, and not just speculate. If you don't have the run files, call your tuner, and have them send them to you in an email if they can.
 
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I hate to break this to you guys, but you can't tell if the car is running lean unless there's actually values listed on the AFR graph. Some tuners put a "red line" around stoich 14.7:1, others put it around 13:1, others put it around 12:1. If you can tell me what the "red line" in the AFR column signifies as far as AFR goes, I can tell you if you're running lean. Me personally, on an inline 4 cylinder w/forged internals I prefer to tune around 12:1 tapering down to around 11.5:1 in the upper RPMs. On something like a 2.0L Subaru WRX, a boxer motor w/cast internals, I would recommend tuning between 11.2-11.5:1 as the extra fuel is needed to cool the heads because boxer motors have an inherent trait of retaining more heat than inlines.

Unless you actually have values for your AFR's, there's no way you can tell just how rich/lean the car is running, unless everyone else just knows what that "red line" signifies on this particular dyno. To be clear I'm talking about the completely straight line that starts at the beginning of the graph, not your "after" AFR graph line.

If you have the run file(s), you can email it to me, I'll put it on WinPEP 7, and repost it with your exact AFR's, so you can see if it's actually running lean, and not just speculate. If you don't have the run files, call your tuner, and have them send them to you in an email if they can.


Will do. I want to think that it was 13:1 but I have a call into them.
 
subscribed!!! I'd like to know the final results if he is actually lean or not. I'm looking to do these mods but don't want tot run lean. I'd much rather be safe and rich. If it means being lean with these mods i'll wait to install them when there is engine management out for the MS3.
 
also if the DP was just installed, you should have reset the ecu. after a reset it will take about 10 full drive cycles before the ecu will adjust and remap the fuel trims. this car should have the ecu reset with EVERY MOD !!
 
Will do. I want to think that it was 13:1 but I have a call into them.

Actually I'm going to guess it was around 12:1 but won't know for sure unless we actually see a graph. I sent you a PM with my email in it, send me your run files and I can find out for you in just a few minutes.
 
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