Damnit Of All Times For My Motor To Blow!
- Thread starter project_msp
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Super Matty P
Banned
- :
- 2003 Supercharged Protege5
mazdaspdprotege said:
funniest post ever!! Do you still have the bruise from when you fell off the turnip truck? (chair)
well you did almost everything right, but made some fatal errors that cost you alot of trouble. btw where you using 93+ octane?
The UniChip is an improvement over the stock ECU. One of the reason why is because it no longer makes the car run so rich.(by either advancing timing or injecting less fuel, either way its leaner) Thats a good thing (although more dangerous), but the FPR and FCD 100% for sure ****** the a/f. I would even put a FPR on a unflashed ECU running 8 psi.(my fpr is for sale btw.....) Next the FCD leans out the car even more when not under boost. That combined with the FPR and the leaning from the UNICHIP, I dont even think you would need to see boost to blow the motor.
But, IT IS NOT THE END OF THE WORLD!!!! Pick up your yellowpages and start phoning every junkyard that is in there for prices on a motor. The majority of motors are fine and are from proteges that have been rear ended etc. even a head on collision, chances are the block and internals are fine. I found a motor with 30,000kms on it for around $800cdn depending if i wanted any accessories etc. Thats all you will really need since the rest you can scavenge from your current motor. You will also wanna pick up a rebuild kit that has new gaskets, bearings etc. Then you need to start asking around for an honest shop that does not overcharge. Explain your situation to them and see if they can do it cheap. If the guy says it will take alot of time etc. tell him you could leave the car there for a few days and whenever he has a chance to do some work to go for it. If you are a girl this will be easier than you think. If your a guy, offer to help him with the work if possible, you will get to learn a thing or two as well. I blew the motor in my Escort GT a few years back and I had a new motor in within the week, you can too.
Dont give up on the speed cause of a setback. Ive told you everything you need to do, its that EZ.
And guys there is a reason your msp runs pig rich, to help prevent destruction from poor tuning. it must have been done to prevent people from turning up the boost and blowing the motor at 9 psi. take away the richness without properly tuning the beast and you will have a nice paperweight. just cause a wrx, talon or even a 626gt can turn up the boost without worries doesnt mean we can. my sig shows you how much i worry, i dont even boost over stock without watching the boost gauge religiously, no music and the window down to listen for deto.
The UniChip is an improvement over the stock ECU. One of the reason why is because it no longer makes the car run so rich.(by either advancing timing or injecting less fuel, either way its leaner) Thats a good thing (although more dangerous), but the FPR and FCD 100% for sure ****** the a/f. I would even put a FPR on a unflashed ECU running 8 psi.(my fpr is for sale btw.....) Next the FCD leans out the car even more when not under boost. That combined with the FPR and the leaning from the UNICHIP, I dont even think you would need to see boost to blow the motor.
But, IT IS NOT THE END OF THE WORLD!!!! Pick up your yellowpages and start phoning every junkyard that is in there for prices on a motor. The majority of motors are fine and are from proteges that have been rear ended etc. even a head on collision, chances are the block and internals are fine. I found a motor with 30,000kms on it for around $800cdn depending if i wanted any accessories etc. Thats all you will really need since the rest you can scavenge from your current motor. You will also wanna pick up a rebuild kit that has new gaskets, bearings etc. Then you need to start asking around for an honest shop that does not overcharge. Explain your situation to them and see if they can do it cheap. If the guy says it will take alot of time etc. tell him you could leave the car there for a few days and whenever he has a chance to do some work to go for it. If you are a girl this will be easier than you think. If your a guy, offer to help him with the work if possible, you will get to learn a thing or two as well. I blew the motor in my Escort GT a few years back and I had a new motor in within the week, you can too.
Dont give up on the speed cause of a setback. Ive told you everything you need to do, its that EZ.
And guys there is a reason your msp runs pig rich, to help prevent destruction from poor tuning. it must have been done to prevent people from turning up the boost and blowing the motor at 9 psi. take away the richness without properly tuning the beast and you will have a nice paperweight. just cause a wrx, talon or even a 626gt can turn up the boost without worries doesnt mean we can. my sig shows you how much i worry, i dont even boost over stock without watching the boost gauge religiously, no music and the window down to listen for deto.
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I don't know what FCD does that, but the onesI build and use will only clamp the voltage at full flow, so I don't know how an FCD can possibly lean out a car when not in boost.
Turbocharged cars NEED to run rich. Good thing, maybe when not boosting, as soonas your boosting RICH = GOOD
FPR , I agree with you is not the right way to go about it. There is only so much pressure the injectors can withstand.
Turbocharged cars NEED to run rich. Good thing, maybe when not boosting, as soonas your boosting RICH = GOOD
FPR , I agree with you is not the right way to go about it. There is only so much pressure the injectors can withstand.
jeffmsp said:
Super Matty P
Banned
- :
- 2003 Supercharged Protege5
I'm offering to swap out shortblocks for him (for a decent price)....I think he needs to throw a stock shortblock in and remove the rest of the FCD/FPR s***.
I never understood why people with stock (notoriously weak) engines would remove the safety precautions from the ecu. .... It's like removing the rev limiter and hanging it out there at 10K rpms to say yo ucan do it.
I never understood why people with stock (notoriously weak) engines would remove the safety precautions from the ecu. .... It's like removing the rev limiter and hanging it out there at 10K rpms to say yo ucan do it.
noclue119 said:
non flashed are pig rich. flashed are still rich. just with added timing in this range of rpm to fight hesistation, which is bad for upped boost. higher boost + timing equal = detonation. I have a guy here running 12-13 lbs with my tune on his MPI with a flashed ecu. Advanced timing isn't your friend when you boost higher. The more timing you have the richer your a/f mixture has to be to combat the detonation threshold.
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rocketspeed
Member
- :
- 03.5 Mazdaspeed Protege, Titanium Gray
Run rich enough and you'll wash your cylinders.
If I had that kind of money for mods to throw at my speed I'd throw it on a dyno to get an idea of what is going on in there as a lil precaution. That should be a rule of thumb for everyone. I know, easier said than done. Sorry for your misfortune project msp. Good luck on your new build
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- :
- 2010 Mazdaspeed3
yes i was using 93 octane. yes i was using colder plugs. yes matter i might be interested in your shortblock. lemme find out from la ex first...
Super Matty P
Banned
- :
- 2003 Supercharged Protege5
I don't have one to sell....I'm just saying I'd buy one and swap them over. I know where we can get acouple though
- :
- 2010 Mazdaspeed3
ah cool...
ill hit you up in 2 days and let you know what's up
ill hit you up in 2 days and let you know what's up
II-Savy said:
MSP's only run rich in open loop in closed loop we are VERY lean. The reason you can see it with your cheese a/f guage is because they only work in closed loop(when the light bounces back and forth) meang it cant see the a/f ratio try doing a part throttle full boost pull at low rpms the guage will either bounce or not show the proper a/f ratio.
bbrk753 said:
They do not ONLY work in closed loop. They are working all the time. The only trouble the voltage change ( That's how they show A/F) is very small and the scale of the gauge is very small. It's accurate all the time, it's just the small, short voltage changes you are seeing.
Getting FULL boost at partial it a bit tough but even then when boost goes up, it goes right to rich.
Stock O2 is good enough to use generally, it will not be so accurate but at least it will show if its lean or rich.
Keep the FCD, but trash away the FPR... get a salvage motor and you are done.
JDM Sam is very right, you could have a 10:1 A/F and advanced timing will anyway kill your motor with detonation leaded by pre-ignition. Ive seen cars runs that rich and ping like hell on the dyno.
Keep the FCD, but trash away the FPR... get a salvage motor and you are done.
JDM Sam is very right, you could have a 10:1 A/F and advanced timing will anyway kill your motor with detonation leaded by pre-ignition. Ive seen cars runs that rich and ping like hell on the dyno.
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