CX-60 Recall and Software Updates

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CX60 Exclusive
I thought I'd start a thread to keep everyone updated on Recall notices, issues and updates.

You can check your VIN for recall information here: Mazda Recall Information | Mazda UK

However that doesn't show the recall I have booked in with Mazda for the torque check/reset for the front suspension.

I've also had some kind of software update to fix the Low 12v Battery Risk warning - But again I've no details other than a verbal confirmation by the dealer.

If anyone has any better resources, please post them here.
 
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Hi Guys,just want report I purchased new cx60 3.3 4wd,next day I had low battery risk warning and also ADblue malfunction dosing.They re-install software and looks all fine.My only worries are than batteries are still only in 30% charged for mild hybrid power support,i think it affects also consumption as they are not able give enough support for acceleration.Someone meet with same issue?
 
Hi Guys,just want report I purchased new cx60 3.3 4wd,next day I had low battery risk warning and also ADblue malfunction dosing.They re-install software and looks all fine.My only worries are than batteries are still only in 30% charged for mild hybrid power support,i think it affects also consumption as they are not able give enough support for acceleration.Someone meet with same issue?
I have the PHEV, but based on my experience with mild hybrids, 30% is about normal (depending on your driving habits and conditions, selected level of recuperation, etc.) You wouldn't want to have it charged to 100%, because that would mean it can take no more charge from regenerative breaking - any further breaking would then be wasted as heat, instead of converting it back to useful energy.
 
In the UK, there has been a recent formal recall (via the DVLA) to resolve a number of issues. The recall’s software update fixes the problem of the CX-60 gauges going black, the 12v battery glitch and a number of others, although I had never experienced any of these in my later production PHEV. The update takes about twenty minutes.

My vehicle has already had the factory update to suspension and door insulation. However, my Mazda dealer has been replacing shock absorbers and fitting further door insulation for older vehicles on request. I am delighted with my car, but understand that earlier production models were unsatisfactory and unfortunately, reviews of those are unsettling owners of already improved cars. I read so many negative reviews, I found myself becoming paranoid looking for glitches that are not there in mine, which rides much better than my previous Mercedes AMG Line Night Edition Premium Plus E350 that had awful low profile run-flats that meant every bump felt like a cattle grid.

There are some owner tips to iron out some perceived glitches. If you have Bridgestone Alenza tyres, inflate them to 39 PSI rather than Mazda‘s suggested 36 PSI for light load (39/45 PSI for heavier loads) and the ride will improve. If you have a rattle, check that it isn’t the passenger seat belt buckle not being returned to its correct position. I educated my wife to tidy the seat belt on exit, rattle gone.

Some drivers have reported a clunky feeling when the ICE kicks in and during some gear changes. I find that driving in Normal offers a better driving experience than toggling between EV and Normal/Sport. Normal still optimises EV driving in urban areas, but the transmission/gear changes seem better and progressively improves as the car “learns”. I attribute that to letting the car do the thinking rather than be dictated by my right foot and left hand. I also get better EV range and MPG in Normal, especially in conjunction with cruise control where I use High Regeneration setting and EV Priority = off, which some owners also anecdotally report improves smoothness of transmission.

This PHEV tip depends on many factors. When distant from your low priced (£0.34/kWh) home charger, don’t be lured into topping up at a rip off (£0.70/kWh) public charger. Instead, run in Normal and allow EV estimated range to drop to circa 2 miles. At that point, press the Charge button, but only put back enough EV range to get you home (repeat as necessary). Key to this tip is you must use the generated charge in that SAME journey. If such charged is unused, you will simply be using more expensive petrol as a substitute for cheaper home charge. The benefit is that using petrol to recharge the battery is cheaper than using a rip off public charger (similar to a Nissan E-Power system). The remarkable thing then is this tactic seems to offer overall better combined miles /kWh plus MPG than the alternative of exhausting the EV battery and running in ICE only. On 200 mile journeys, I am enjoying 2.8 kWh with around 60MPG from a single 100% home charge, by repeatedly using Normal + Charge yet always arriving home with negligible charge left. But if not repeatedly using Charge to replenish the EV battery, the latter would drop to a (still respectable) 35 MPG. Here, one is using petrol to extend EV range, and running in EV is more efficient than ICE. It’s hard to explain, but works!
 
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