Just got my 03.5 msp together today after having the head rebuilt, I bought the car as a basket case and used my 2003 msp as kind of a guide for a visual aide. She started right up but would not idle very well. Then if I bring up the rpms slowly I can rev it past 4k with not prob but if I hammer on the throttle it will not go past 4k and when I let off my bov vents so I know I'm building boost, I first thought maf so I took the one out of my 03 (my daily driver) and pugged it in still the same. If I disconnect either one of the mafs the car does just fine although the idle surges no cels lease HELP!!!!
cutting out at 4k please help
- Thread starter Wildside
- Start date
Maxx Mazda
Contributor
- :
- Stock P5
It's a problem under boost. When you rev it up slowly the throttle is barely open, no boost is built inside the manifold. When you "hammer on it" boost will build (or attempt to in your case) and that leads me to believe that's your issue. Do you have a boost gauge on it? What does it read?
Maxx Mazda
Contributor
- :
- Stock P5
Do you have a boost gauge? Could be hitting fuel cut if its cold out.
This is just sitting in the car revving it it will not idle if I disconnect the maf and it cuts out at 4k. I do not have a gauge installed but I will put one in today and give you an update
Ok I figured it out, the injectors that I was provided with the car are different than the oem injectors so I was hitting fuel cut, I took the set out of my 03 and put em in now she's running good. Any ideas on where I could get a set of injectors for a msp
Maxx Mazda
Contributor
- :
- Stock P5
MSP injectors are the same as the rest of the 3rd Gens.
Perfect thank you, how about the timing belt loosening up on its own. I'm thinking bad tensioner but its tight after I time the engine then works itself loose
Maxx Mazda
Contributor
- :
- Stock P5
What makes you think the belt slipped?
That spring MUST be replaced every time you unhook it. It may look fine but it's not designed to stretch that far. If you stretched it out by mistake, could cause your belt to come loose. It's a $2.98 part anyways. Do you really want to risk it?
That spring MUST be replaced every time you unhook it. It may look fine but it's not designed to stretch that far. If you stretched it out by mistake, could cause your belt to come loose. It's a $2.98 part anyways. Do you really want to risk it?
I experienced a rough isle so I thought I would check timing and I found the idle side of my belt loose so I rolled cylinder 1 to top dead center and my timing was two teeth off. To my knowledge the spring has never been removed the tensioner bolt was loose and then rolled around until the outlet became loose. It's definitely been interesting building this engine due to me buying the car in pieces I received the engine in the trunk. So I really appreciate your help on this bro
Maxx Mazda
Contributor
- :
- Stock P5
The tensioner has to have the spring removed to take the belt off. When you time it, make sure to turn the crank TWO revolutions (one cam revolution) to make sure it's lined up properly.
Maxx Mazda
Contributor
- :
- Stock P5
Fuel cut. Search it.
Dude I'm telling you if you loosen the center bolt then take a Allen head and use it to move the pulley itself the belt becomes loose enough to remove
Maxx Mazda
Contributor
- :
- Stock P5
You shouldn't Need to loosen the center bolt if the tensioner is working properly... It rides on an eccentric shaft internally.
