custom fmic what ya think?
- Thread starter byohndspeed
- Start date
i used 2.5" aluminum tubing and welded most of the connections.i then header wraped the hole thing to keep any heatsoak to a minimun, also i like the way it looks over the polished aluminum look.
CustomMSP ---i didnt know aluminum rusted?
pluto316--- i got the intercooler from ebay around 230ish..the rest i got from a&a auto parts. i bought a bunch of tubing some straight and some bent..then i tore the front end off and went to town..i have around 600 in it all..but you could do it a bit cheaper if you use different pipe connectors.i used turbonetics and they are kinda salty..if i were to do it over i could do it for about 500..i would rather not sell you a setup do to my lack of experince(sp?)i can email you some pix and a shopping list..
pluto316--- i got the intercooler from ebay around 230ish..the rest i got from a&a auto parts. i bought a bunch of tubing some straight and some bent..then i tore the front end off and went to town..i have around 600 in it all..but you could do it a bit cheaper if you use different pipe connectors.i used turbonetics and they are kinda salty..if i were to do it over i could do it for about 500..i would rather not sell you a setup do to my lack of experince(sp?)i can email you some pix and a shopping list..
iON Performance
Potential Scammer!
byohndspeed - Word of advice, you may want to consider doing one of the 2 options to increase the duribility of your system.
(1) Use much stiffer aftermarket F&R motor mounts
or
(2) Add some places to allow for movement.
(1) Use much stiffer aftermarket F&R motor mounts
or
(2) Add some places to allow for movement.
ion-- thankyou for the advice..im not sure what exactly what part you are refering to.if it is the piping there are atleast 3 adaptors or connectors on each side of intercooler..the only parts that are welded are the cai and the long pipe that goes to the tb. but there are 2 more silicone connectors between the end of that and the intercooler..
iON Performance
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byohndspeed - the I/C -> TB piping, you may want to break that up into 2 and add a connector which takes both axial and rotational motion. We've seen 1-piece Aluminum eventually crack overtime.
the 1/c->tb is 2 peices..goes like so.....i/c ->90 silicon ->90 aluminum ->silicon sleeve ->straight aluminum ->weld ->90 aluminum -> silicon sleeve ->tb...
is that ok?
is that ok?
iON Performance
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byohndspeed - where you had the weld, you should've used another connector. This will allow for more flex.
Since everything is all wrapped now, just leave it until it does crack (you'll notice it with a loss in boost)
Since everything is all wrapped now, just leave it until it does crack (you'll notice it with a loss in boost)
ion--thankx for the advice..i was thinking about puting 1 there but i figured i would see how it goes..it seems to have some play in the pipe but i dont know how much should be there..i may just cut the wrap and put a sleeve in..
thankx again..
p.s. other than that, what do you think?
thankx again..
p.s. other than that, what do you think?
iON Performance
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byohndspeed - not too bad in regards to the piping. We would've chose to ceramic coat the aluminum rather then adding heat wrap. Our material of choice would've been Stainless though.
yeah i wanted to have it coated but the funds just weren't their.i also wanted to do stainless but no one around here can do really nice mandral bends.they have the mandral bender but they still dip in on the inside to much..
chitownballer
Member
now why cant someone put out a kit like that for $600, s*** i would buy it RIGHT NOW..ths second drop down cash for it..my moneys waiting to be burnt on some kind of intercooler system...
SmoothCriminal
Member
- :
- 91 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
aluminum doesnt rust, when it becomes in contact with air, it forms a layer of aluminum oxide which protects it from rusting (the top of the metal is already oxidized).. none of us have ever seen the element Al
