OK my time to chime in.....

1) The machining of surfacing rotors is not gone in the service industry.
a) Machining
when done correctly will make a better surface and completely flat. Or less then .001 runout.
b) It is ALWAYS a good idea to machine a rotor when replacing pads to ensure that you get the best braking and longest rotor and pad life.
c) If in the budget is there have the NEW rotors at least check for runout on a laythe. You would be surprised how many NIB are not as flat as you think.
2) If you are a
DIY READ a HOW-TO brake service guide
specifically for your platform and model vehicle. DON"T ASSUME that because you have done brakes with past vehicles that it will be the same procedures
As for parts, these days it really is hard to get
very poor quality rotors and pads. The pricing structure is all over the map and price does not mean quality parts.
If you are choosing a PAD that is not OEM or OEM specification I strongly suggest NOT to go by what people recommend and do the research about the different qualities and how a brake pad will perform on your vehicle. Everybody has an opinion unfortunately unless they were able to actually try several pad type and material on their vehicle the reviews are in no way truly accurate. In other words their opinions are based mostly from replacing worn brake parts with new parts and naturally they are going to have great things to say about their choice of parts.
ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS do a
BED in procedure with your new brake parts and most importantly for the new pads. LOOK on the WWW and read
How-to BED in new brakes.
At one time almost every supplier of brake shoes and pads had a little warning about doing this. Now its rare to see that anymore and even more rare is service shops that will do this for their customers before they pick up their vehicle having had a brakes replaced??? We always did, the biggest reason was to insure the brake job was done correctly and that the pads (depending on material of pad used) were quiet.