Cost on a bottom end?

BlkZoomZoom said:
If you took it to a dealer (if they would even do it) they would charge you around 13-16 hrs. labor.

So multiply that by about $80, and you will have your price.
 
$80 x 13-16 hours = Bent over with no Vaseline. (My dealership is $90/hr by the way)

I would never get this done at the dealer. If I can find a reputable shop willing to do it for a few hundred, I'll just take it to someone. Otherwise, I can just do it at my house. I know it's not impossible to do myself, but after all the crap I dealt with in my last engine swap, I'm not looking forward to another, more detailed one.
 
hey nick, I might be going with one of you built blocks(haven't decided long or short yet). what is the difference between yours and mam's shortblock? yours is cheaper and hold tons of power, is there things beaus does that you dont? hre is from one of their threads,
"We address the crank walk issuse by having a second thrust bearing machined and installed($400), crank nitrated a second time($100) and then micro polished,line hone, square deck, bored, honed, plateau,all oil gallay's chaffered,full block debur,etc.
We do not bore & hone and put new rods in pistons in.Everything is done to spec and a full build sheet comes with our motors.The customer will know all tolerances and specs.
Our motors are $2995, plus core and shipping
".
I am not too knowledgeable when it comes to building up engines so, is there things here not needed or overboard?
 
Considering no ones ever seen a 2.0L Mazda motor with a crankwalk issue you make your own decision.
 
is it possible? and is it probable from the info provided in other threads about the crankwalk?
 
You'd have to have a seriously heavy pressure plate or a mis-adjusted clutch for it to become a problem in my opinion.
 
BlkZoomZoom said:
You'd have to have a seriously heavy pressure plate or a mis-adjusted clutch for it to become a problem in my opinion.

I agree as well.. if you are using a 50% or more pressure plate you may see it... otherwise I doubt it'll pop up... besides.. the clutch I had made for me is a 34% over plate and with the friction disc will hold over 500 ft-lbs and be streetable (it's sprung, and it isn't puck).

I'm adding the thrust bearing face in my car as a "just in case" thing... and it's only running me about 200 bucks... probably less.
 
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