Cost on a bottom end?

TurfBurn said:
short block is without a cylinder head... long block is with a cylinder head (and sometimes a manifold). That's the common junkyard/engine builder terminology as it is used among the builders and yards I've used.
(hand) Well, that was a lot simpler than I thought. Thanks:)
 
2K3 MSP said:
So, do we get all this included with the $2,100 price tag?? Just curious because you said they "start at $2,100."
Oh, and what's the difference between the short block and long block? What performance differences would I see between the two?

Everything that you listed is what you get. The core charge is $375.00 and then you have shipping cost. If we do your engine you have no core charge.

Thats the base short block, $2,100.00. We also have better options for the psitons, rods, crankshaft and main cap girdle.

Short block means no cylinder head, long is with the head and timing belt installed.

Please let me know if you have any questions at all.
 
MPNick said:
Everything that you listed is what you get. The core charge is $375.00 and then you have shipping cost. If we do your engine you have no core charge.

Thats the base short block, $2,100.00. We also have better options for the psitons, rods, crankshaft and main cap girdle.

Short block means no cylinder head, long is with the head and timing belt installed.

Please let me know if you have any questions at all.
I'd definately have to add the core charge, because I need to have as little downtime as possible. I'll get back to you within the next few weeks after I find out what I'm getting back for taxes. That'll determine how quick I can afford to do this, but the engine build up is next on my "to do list". Thanks for all the extra info you've added to the post also. It helps out all us engine newbs:p
 
MP Nick, with the base shortblock that you offer what would be the max hp that you would recommend that block for? My goal is around 400+whp if that helps at all. If the $2100 block won't handle that kind of power (I only need the 400+ to the ground when I'm running at the track, and around 275-300 for the street), what upgrades would you recommend, and additional cost? Thanks. Also can you build the head also? If so, just pm me to let me know my options and pricing of heads and shortblocks. Thanks.
 
edaddeemsp said:
MP Nick, with the base shortblock that you offer what would be the max hp that you would recommend that block for? My goal is around 400+whp if that helps at all. If the $2100 block won't handle that kind of power (I only need the 400+ to the ground when I'm running at the track, and around 275-300 for the street), what upgrades would you recommend, and additional cost? Thanks. Also can you build the head also? If so, just pm me to let me know my options and pricing of heads and shortblocks. Thanks.

We are doing the very same type of 400 whp MSP build right now. Got set back by same parts and UPS. We are back on track now. The base $2,100.00 short block would be fine for the 400whp you are after. I will PM you later today.
 
wow.. if all the 400+ intended cars make it there we'll have one sick group of cars! :)

Nice stuff as always Nick.
 
Last edited:
Hey, Nick? How much for just a cylinder head job for an N/A? I don't want a huge port, just light, but I also want the quench welded, like I mentioned, to increase compression and help fend off detonation. =)
 
2K3 MSP said:
Now that's what I like to hear(nana)

keep in mind the head would still love a port job if you plan to shoot for 400hp, even though the bottom end would be solid.
 
flat_black said:
Hey, Nick? How much for just a cylinder head job for an N/A? I don't want a huge port, just light, but I also want the quench welded, like I mentioned, to increase compression and help fend off detonation. =)

The quench may hurt flow across the chamber. I think a resurface would be better for gaining compression.

Port, polish, comp valve job, resurface, swirled polish, twin cut the valves and adjust the valves. $675.00 complete.
 
Damn, I can't stop thinking about getting this block ordered. Im still waiting on my tax return papers, and I haven't gotten them from either one of my jobs yet:( I'm going crazy.
 
2K3 MSP said:
Damn, I can't stop thinking about getting this block ordered. Im still waiting on my tax return papers, and I haven't gotten them from either one of my jobs yet:( I'm going crazy.

Got cores waiting.
 
TurfBurn said:
you were actually seeing a reasonable deflection without a torque plate? Or you are using it just as the "proper way"?

Good news, the machinist doing my block torqued down the head and measured the bores with a bore guide (or whatever you call it) and I had no deflection...woot woot!!
I am not saying everyone will be as lucky because we all know that castings can be different. Yippee for my block though.
 
If you get a brand new block you don't have to worry about that stuff.
 
BlkZoomZoom said:
If you get a brand new block you don't have to worry about that stuff.
One of my cylinders was completely off line of the other 3. A good bore job took care of it and all cylinders are now in line. You can't tell me that my block was straight from the factory and then one of my cylinders moved... (no)
For a 150hp car the block is fine, but not for my plans. I was just glad I didn't have to buy a torque plate.
 
If you took it to a dealer (if they would even do it) they would charge you around 13-16 hrs. labor.
 
Every measurment I have done on my new block has been very encouraging.
 
Back