coolant temp sensor

[thecrash91]

yeah did a little more poking around and found a more likely candidate, its got a line that comes from the passenger side of the car right into the TB and the line from the solenoid to the TB has a check valve on it, would i get the rich condition if the solenoid was stuck open or closed you guys think? id assume closed since the solenoid isnt letting anything in, i tried blowing into the solenoid and both sides are closed, no idea if this means anything or not lol just the first thing i do when i check a sensor

 

[thecrash91]

also what exactly is in the evap canister? i traced the line back to it and id kinda like to take the lines off to check for cloges but im not sure if anything will pour out from the canister, im assuming its just vapors?

 

[thecrash91]

nvm, did more poking around and i think i narrowed it down to either fuel pressure regulator or the purge solenoid, the evap canister was empty and i could not find any clogged lines, i blew into the line that goes from the canister to the fuel tank and my girlfriend could hear air coming through all the way back. now i have to test fuel pressure and if that shows up good (pump and regulator) then im going to replace the purge solenoid, anyone know how to test? i checked out the fuel rail and saw that theres no spot to put in a pressure gauge, am i going to have to take this to a shop? thanks for info and for being patient guys its been real tough especially since inspection is already past due. very stressful situation.

 

[thecrash91]

ok so talked to a mazda technician and he said he doubts its the purge solenoid, especially since he said itd have to be stuck open and when i removed mine i could not blow through it. so im off to test the FPR and see if i get any strange results. wish me luck

 

[Ricktalife]

So does anybody know what solenoid the pics above are? My friend accidentally broke off the part with the mitsubishi logo when we were installing my CDM EGR valve. We used some RTV to plug the hole since that's all it seemed to be doing at that particular spot anyway. Should I replace it or do you guys think it is fine as long as I have it plugged?

 

[Keno1542]

im pretty sure those are for the vtcs/vics, one for each of them obviously.

 

[thecrash91]

i believe its he prc solenoid, it the same thing as the egr boost sensor (MAP sensor) so you can buy one of those and its the exact same thing, except the mitsubishi logo is on a different nipple

 

[dirtysouth_msp]

That's not the same as a map sensor. It is a solenoid. I am not so sure the extra port on that solenoid should be plugged. That part on the extra nipple with a mitsubishi logo on it is referred to by the manufacturer as a filter. Although, it does kinda look like a plug to me, lol. Those types of solenoids are designed to direct airflow/vacuum. Ports are labeled as follows: the port facing opposite the plug connecter is port A, the one perpendicular to port A is port B and the port below the plug connector is port C. When solenoid is energized airflow/vacuum changes from B-C to B-A. That is all those solenoids do. They control airflow/vacuum being supplied to another component (such as the egr boost sensor, variable intake actators, etc). There are several of those solenoids in our cars and they are interchangeable. Swap solenoids and see if the code changes. If you broke one you should probably go ahead and replace it. Hope that helps.

 

[thecrash91]

Bout to push the car off a cliff. Can someone please tell me there's something wrong with these afrs so I can at least have something to go off of
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iSoNPGDOrGw

 

[dirtysouth_msp]

Looks like it only goes rich for a sec when it drops below 14:1. The majority of the time it seems to be lean. Although it does not seem logical I've seen vac leaks, etc. cause a car to throw a rich code. In some cases the computer will attempt to compensate for the lean condition and goes too far, causing the car to bog and throw a rich code. Looks like you are tuned according to your sig. Have the afr readings always looked the same or have they changed recently? If they are higher than before, look into things that would cause it to go lean; vac leaks, etc.

 

[thecrash91]

That's how its always looked but my main concern is, is it supposed to fluctuate like that or stay in one general spot?

 

[dirtysouth_msp]

That's how its always looked but my main concern is, is it supposed to fluctuate like that or stay in one general spot?

Under what conditions (what were you doing) when you recorded that vid?

 

[Ricktalife]

That's not the same as a map sensor. It is a solenoid. I am not so sure the extra port on that solenoid should be plugged. That part on the extra nipple with a mitsubishi logo on it is referred to by the manufacturer as a filter. Although, it does kinda look like a plug to me, lol. Those types of solenoids are designed to direct airflow/vacuum. Ports are labeled as follows: the port facing opposite the plug connecter is port A, the one perpendicular to port A is port B and the port below the plug connector is port C. When solenoid is energized airflow/vacuum changes from B-C to B-A. That is all those solenoids do. They control airflow/vacuum being supplied to another component (such as the egr boost sensor, variable intake actators, etc). There are several of those solenoids in our cars and they are interchangeable. Swap solenoids and see if the code changes. If you broke one you should probably go ahead and replace it. Hope that helps.

Thanks for the info! I'll look into getting a new one.

 

[thecrash91]

Under what conditions (what were you doing) when you recorded that vid?

At first when its all the way lean I was coasting then I just gently pressed in the throttle to accelerate no more then -10 vac so in the god I prob went from -20 to -10 vac and thats it. Thats how my afr reads all the time out of boost it always jumps around like that. In boost its always dead preside and doesn't fluctuate like the vid

 

[justanothermp5]

sorry for the late reply, but that solenoid u took a pic of, is the purge solenoid
the nipple doesnt do s***, not really sure why its even there to be honest

and whenever mine had a messed up connection, the AFR's would go from 12 to 16 super fast, and the car would stutter, just under normal cruising speeds it would do this
whenever i gassed it, it wouldnt

 

[thecrash91]

sorry for the late reply, but that solenoid u took a pic of, is the purge solenoid
the nipple doesnt do s***, not really sure why its even there to be honest

and whenever mine had a messed up connection, the AFR's would go from 12 to 16 super fast, and the car would stutter, just under normal cruising speeds it would do this
whenever i gassed it, it wouldnt

Thanks for info but I collected that data already I'm now trying to get input on whether or not the vid of my wideband is normal

 

[thecrash91]

Bump? All I want to know at this point is if my wideband is showing normal readings...

 

[thecrash91]

nobody can really tell me if this is how your afrs are supposed to be? (fluctuating from 14-16)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iSoNPGDOrGw

 

[thecrash91]

can someone please answer this? my next step is going to be swap the o2 sensors (the fornt and back one) just to perminantly rule out O2, i recently cleaned egr valve, i had no idle issue but it was kinda grimmy

 

[thecrash91]

tried running the car without MAF sensor, i read on other forums that the car will run on preprogrammed maps this way and i noticed on the wideband the harder i presseed the pedal, (less of a vacuum almost hitting boost) the more lean the car ran, i had a a reallllly hard time getting up a hill without hitting more then 15, could that indicate anything? maybe a wire is bad coming from MAF sensor or the plug is bad?