Completed system wiring this weekend...

chuyler1

goes to eleven
:
2013 CX-9
Here are a few shots of the wiring I did this weekend. All wire and terminals are KnuKonceptz. I also hooked up an old 12" eclipse sub and my sub amp to get me through the next few weeks. The amps and cap will be in my final install but the sub and box will not. They are only in there so I can get an idea of how the system will sound when completed.

1) Battery with KnuKoncepts terminals
2) How I went through the firwall without drilling
3) How I spliced into the factory wiring for the David Navone LOC
4) Where I mounted the LOC
5) Amps and cap mounted to the sub box
6) Sub box (see next post)

There is tons of extra wire in the hatch because I don't quite know the final length of wire that will be necessary. I only ran one speaker wire up each side because I plan to stuff the crossovers in the doors. There won't be any room to show them off in the trunk and it was a good way to save wire.

Sound impressions. Well with 500 watts going to a 150 watt sub I thought it would sound tighter...Perhaps my temporary ground (the spare tire bolt) has something to do with the sloppyness I'm hearing from the rear. Granted I haven't messed with the amp settings and the front stage is still stock. I'm hoping this will change when I put my two ID 8"s in which can handle 150 watts each. All I hear now is delayed fluff. ick.

Anyway, just thought people would be interested in seeing some photos...More will come as my install progresses. The plan is to build a 4" tall false floor that will serve as an amp rack as well as a .9cuft sealed enclosure for the subs.
 

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looks alright. . . only thing that bothers me is the use of the tap connectors. . .but thats only cause i dont' like them

oh yea. . false floors rule
 
ya, i agree, looks great, but that style crimp connectors don't always work well!
 
Ugh, I hate those POS Scotchlocks......Shoulda gotten the reverse harness instead.

Other than that, nice job.
 
Yeah I've seen the crimp-splicers not work well also...but it was the quickest easiest way to tap into the factory wiring without cutting anything. A reverse harness would only complicate things since I still need the rear speaker wires connected. In addition to using them for the LOC I am going to power my rear-fill with them with the stock wiring. (I ran this by David Navone and he said it would work fine)

I messed with the crossover and the gain before work this morning. After I lowered the crossover point and raised the gain a little, the muddyness went away. I haven't touched the bass eq (0-12db @ 40Hz I think).
 
looks pretty good. but i definately wouldve used solder and shrink tubing for a better quality and more permanent install. oh, and change your ground. thats bad...
 
If I were installing an aftermarket headunit I would have done both of those also...but the factory radio doesn't have any ground issues (yet) and I didn't want to cut any of the factory wiring during my install.

The connections are strong, protected from shorts, and won't pull apart easily.

Besides, I prefer to do my soldering on a bench. I can't exactly solder factory wires that are mounted to the car unless I don't have an issue with hot solder dripping onto my interior. Melted plastic and burnt carpet is not on my list of mods.
 
well, you could try to solder it in there=). plenty of room to burn the s*** out of yourself. but i agree. its a pita to solder in small spaces. last time i did that i ended up getting burnt and putting a nice hole in my favorite shirt from a drip, and that s*** hurts!!! but yea, those connectors should do the job just fine plus you did keep it really clean looking. oh, btw, i meant to move the ground for your amp=).
 
Oh...yes of course...I'll find something behind the rear panel or use a seat belt bolt if I can't find anything else.
 
Greetings. I was looking under the hood and under the dash today...I see where the wire goes into the firewall, but where does it come out?? Does that come out near the top of the clutch pedal? (boom07) I wasn't a 100% sure, so I figured I'd ask before poking around...Thanks!

chuyler1 said:
Here are a few shots of the wiring I did this weekend. All wire and terminals are KnuKonceptz. I also hooked up an old 12" eclipse sub and my sub amp to get me through the next few weeks. The amps and cap will be in my final install but the sub and box will not. They are only in there so I can get an idea of how the system will sound when completed.

1) Battery with KnuKoncepts terminals
2) How I went through the firwall without drilling
3) How I spliced into the factory wiring for the David Navone LOC
4) Where I mounted the LOC
5) Amps and cap mounted to the sub box
6) Sub box (see next post)

There is tons of extra wire in the hatch because I don't quite know the final length of wire that will be necessary. I only ran one speaker wire up each side because I plan to stuff the crossovers in the doors. There won't be any room to show them off in the trunk and it was a good way to save wire.

Sound impressions. Well with 500 watts going to a 150 watt sub I thought it would sound tighter...Perhaps my temporary ground (the spare tire bolt) has something to do with the sloppyness I'm hearing from the rear. Granted I haven't messed with the amp settings and the front stage is still stock. I'm hoping this will change when I put my two ID 8"s in which can handle 150 watts each. All I hear now is delayed fluff. ick.

Anyway, just thought people would be interested in seeing some photos...More will come as my install progresses. The plan is to build a 4" tall false floor that will serve as an amp rack as well as a .9cuft sealed enclosure for the subs.
 
it's WAY up there, it is above the clutch pedal a good bit, jsut follow the factory wires that go to the firewall, you'll see it.
 
Yup, there is a set of wrapped wires that you should recognize on both sides. You'll have to pull the front seat back and lie on your back to see it (a flash light helps too).
 
It doesn't seems to be way up there too much...just a bit above, because there is a plastic piece that is above the wire. Here are a few pictures, sorry, they are a bit blurry...
The first one is what I see on the driver's side, inside, about the clutch pedal a little bit. The second one is what is directly about the wires coming in, the plastic piece. The third one is what I see under the hood. Can anyone verify that what I see under the hood is what is connected to what I think I see on the inside?? I hope this makes sense... (boom01)


Poseur said:
it's WAY up there, it is above the clutch pedal a good bit, jsut follow the factory wires that go to the firewall, you'll see it.
 

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yeah i was thinking of runing some wires through there as well but i wasn't sure about where they'd pop out of.
 
Reverse Harness

I picked up my Reverse Harness today!! (thumb) Thank you Circuit City!!Soldering all the wires, taping them up. I hope I will have time to put everything in tomorrow after work. Hopefully I won't have any major problems...just have to pick up a Ford/Mazda radio tool...probably going to run the power wire along the passenger side. Here are a few pictures of the harnesses, and the LOC.
 

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Running the power wire was a PITA!! I still have to fix the grommet, it came out when I was trying to poke the power wire through. I was able to get in back in partially, and still need to run the power wire through the grommet. Any suggestions on how to do either?? (uhm)
 
Chiguy_2002 said:
Running the power wire was a PITA!! I still have to fix the grommet, it came out when I was trying to poke the power wire through. I was able to get in back in partially, and still need to run the power wire through the grommet. Any suggestions on how to do either?? (uhm)
yikes, you might need two people, one on the engine side and one in the passenger compartment. it will be tough getting that back on....but you can do it! it's happend to me before, on another car. good luck!!
 
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