Color of Fresh Brake Fluid?

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2016 Mazda CX-9 GT
Can someone who has had their brake fluid flushed on their 2016 and up CX-9. What color is your fresh brake fluid is? I have always know for brake fluid to be mostly amber or gold. My truck just had its brake fluid flush and it's amber.
Reason I ask is supposedly the fluid on my CX-9 was supposed to have been flushed during my service but the fluid looks dark. I am scheduled to go back tomorrow after calling the service manager.
 
Buy a small bottle of brake fluid and pour it into a glass then siphon some out of your master cylinder to another glass and compare samples. It won't cost much and will give you a clear picture of what you are dealing with.
 
https://knowhow.napaonline.com/check-brake-fluid-theres-problem/
--quote--
New brake fluid should be clear, and light amber in color. If a quick visual inspection reveals dark, rusty or even inky fluid, it is time for a change. One characteristic of brake fluid is that it attracts and absorbs moisture from its environment over time. When water gets into the brake system, two things can happen.

First, it can rust the metal components in the system, causing early wear as bits flake off into and contaminate the fluid or clog the lines. Second, it lowers the boiling temperature of the brake fluid itself, so that long downhill rides or sudden stops might be too much for your brakes to handle. Moisture in brake fluid has a drastic effect on the fluid boiling point, reducing it by well over 100 degrees or more. If the moisture level in the brake fluid is too high at the same time the brakes are under heavy use (and therefore high temperatures) the fluid can actually boil. If the fluids boils you are no longer trying to stop with a non-compressible fluid but with a compressible gas. Pushing the brake pedal with boiling fluid will likely end up with the pedal on the floor and and a loss of braking ability!
--end quote--

By the way, absorbing moisture is a feature, not a bug. One of the problems with silicone brake fluid is that it lets moisture accumulate in low points and corrode internals of the parts there much earlier than the moisture in our usual polyglycol ether brake fluid.
 
Speaking of temps, anyone know what the acceptable upper limits are for rotor temperatures? Asking for the next time I go up Pike's Peak.
 
I don’t know myself but some numbers here


  • 550°F - 650°F
    Brake resin odor is present
  • 850°F
    Brakes begin to smoke
  • 1,100°F
    Brake oxidation occurs at parts of the brake open to air rushing by
  • 1,250°F
    Drums become cherry-red internally
  • +1,250°F
    Danger of run-away due to excess drum expansion
 
Excess heat will damage the brake fluid as well as the pads, rotors, and rubber parts. One must use engine braking on long downhill grades to avoid overheating the brakes. Once your brakes overheat, you got nothing.
 
Definitely. The car pretty much stays in first gear on the way down, but it still rolls too fast so brakes are needed. I stop halfway down to cool.
 
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