Cobb AP Discussion Thread

Stock bpv ftw. Works perfectly. Forge is great as well cept I was getting a lot of stutter under wot shifts.

Tried different spring and shim combos? ie yellow only, yellow +1 shim, yellow +2 shims, blue only...
 
if i only have cobb intake and cobb inlet pipe i should be using stage 1 93 SF map? or will the 91oct map be better for everyday driving? we get 93 octane here, but if i can use 91 and still increase efficiency and power, which one is more detremental to the longevity of the car?
 
Correct map, Stage 1 +SF 93. 93 is better for knock, go with it if you have it.
 
I just looked at the site, didn't realize there were so many map options out there already...awesome. I really need to get around to getting one of these.
 
I've been looking into this since I picked mine up Saturday (newbie here). I poked around the website and found this.

http://www.cobbtuning.com/products/?id=4223

That's a 30.7% drivetrain loss in their base vehicle (assuming about 190whp)! Maybe it's my newb-ness to MS6's, or even AWD in general... I'm used to RWD drive cars, and my first car, an '89 Mx-6, was the ONLY non-RWD I've ever owned. I'm interested to see some more real-life dynos before I drop $700 on this, even though it sounds like it's a hell of a piece of equipment.
 
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edit: oh, I went with the semi-flat part, not the "spike", which isn't useable. Seems that the spike is only about a 13% drivetrain loss, and that WOULD be the peak.... although it would be pretty misleading.
 
I just installed a testpipe and am running stage 2 93 sf. The car actually feels slower than the stage 1 93sf. I am knocking like hell too. I got down on it and my dashhawk started flashing and saying alert! I was up to like 4.6 kr. LTFT and afrs are perfect though. On the stage 1 map my LTFTs are high... Could the testpipe not having a flex section cause for false knock? Im sure sure it not is false since my knock stays above 1 for a few seconds. Any who I am putting my mufflers back on tomarrow since iits loud as hell now. Straight pipes :) . Then Ill flash back to stage1 93 an see how it goes.
 
thats a little scary, you think i would have high ltft and afrs with just the intake and inlet? and no other performance adders, i dont have a dashhawk, or guages.
 
Ok, so I am getting ready to do my modding soon, once it warms up and I am buying my AccessPort and POSSIBLY Dashhawk this week.

I will have the Corksport Full Length Intake and CP-E DownPipe with stock catback at first, and then my friend is building my custom 3" Catback for me...(straight pipes Turbo Back :D )

Will I want to run these maps with this set up:

Stock CB: Stage1+SF 93 v101u

Custom CB:Stage2+SF 93 v101c

(I would assume since the Cobb SF intake is a SRI, that these MAPs can be used for the Cork Sport Full Length SRI, please correct me if I'm wrong)
 
Ok, so I am getting ready to do my modding soon, once it warms up and I am buying my AccessPort and POSSIBLY Dashhawk this week.

I will have the Corksport Full Length Intake and CP-E DownPipe with stock catback at first, and then my friend is building my custom 3" Catback for me...(straight pipes Turbo Back :D )

Will I want to run these maps with this set up:

Stock CB: Stage1+SF 93 v101u

Custom CB:Stage2+SF 93 v101c

(I would assume since the Cobb SF intake is a SRI, that these MAPs can be used for the Cork Sport Full Length SRI, please correct me if I'm wrong)


CB doesnt matter for stage 2 just the downpipe so i would run stage 2 with and without the CB and yes i have a custom SRI and am running a stage 2 SF map
 
i would recommend staying stage 2 like Dr. D said and also maybe just trying stage 2 93 v101d
 
CB doesnt matter for stage 2 just the downpipe so i would run stage 2 with and without the CB and yes i have a custom SRI and am running a stage 2 SF map

Cool Man, thank you very much for a quick response. And yes, I am getting the Dash Hawk too, had to okay it with "Her" first...damn women lol
 
No changes are needed to the maps because of the turbo inlet pipes (tip) ... it's post MAF so no changes to fuel trims.
 
with the AP maps as well as two catalytic converters, do these cars remain street legal? that is my main goal, to have the most powerful, daily drivable, utility possessing, street legal MS6. A catted DP and a hi-flow cat will keep the emissions the same yes? we are just improving airflow? and the AP safely improves this as well? cheap gains are not good, good gains are not cheap!
 
the AP will do nothing to make the car not street legal unless it causes you to exceed the speed limit in all conditions. a hi-flow cat will not keep the emissions the same as stock but it is a lot better than non-catted. the AP is not for emissions.
 
How do you know its not safe to run stage 2? What should I be looking out for? MY LTFT's are perfection. AFR's at WOT are 11.3-11.7. Sometimes shifting from 5th to 6th after a run i will hit 5.6kr for a second. My boost only hits 15 with the 93+SF map and the needle on my boost gauges fluttlers like hell. Could this be the stock bpv leaking?
 
i mean even i would think that the stock bpv cant handle more than 16psi of boost properly, aftermarket versions are made with real parts, not chinese food tupperware grade plastic.

its the difference between a harmonica and a kazoo
 

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