Clutch interlock disable
- Thread starter rx7gslse
- Start date
There is a "starter interlock switch" that controls this. When the clutch is depressed, it creates continuity across the circuit. I think if you pulled off the switch and put in a jumper across the terminals, that would pretty much do it. I'm no positive where the switch is, but I would loook near the clutch pedal.
That being said, I think it would be a LOT easier to just learn to deal with it, rather than screwing around with it. Are there a lot of times when you start the car without having the clutch down? I've driven standards for a long time and can't remember ever starting the car without the clutch down. First thing I was taught.
That being said, I think it would be a LOT easier to just learn to deal with it, rather than screwing around with it. Are there a lot of times when you start the car without having the clutch down? I've driven standards for a long time and can't remember ever starting the car without the clutch down. First thing I was taught.
I never have a problem remembering it in my Rx7...
but I work on it a fair amount and when it's off teh ground it's much easier to just reach in and turn the key, rathering than having to climb all the way in and push in the clutch...
Yeah, I could learn to deal with it, but if it's not a hard things to do, I'd rather do that....
but I work on it a fair amount and when it's off teh ground it's much easier to just reach in and turn the key, rathering than having to climb all the way in and push in the clutch...
Yeah, I could learn to deal with it, but if it's not a hard things to do, I'd rather do that....
ELEmental59437
Member
- :
- 2002 P5, 1978 F250
switch
Either way is ghetto rigging it in my mind, (tape and jumper). What I would do is put a switch in a clever location and connect each terminal to each wire on the clutch switch. That way it could be optional to press the clutch down or not. Plus you have a backup in the highly unlikely event that the clutch switch goes out. Whenever I change something on my car I have to make it "more complicated". I usually dont settle for less complicated.
Theres actually 2 plunger switches for the clutch. The one you would need to splice into is the one against the cars body... if that makes sence.. the one thats NOT pressed in when the clutch pedal is in its normal position. The plug for it is apart from the switch. Just follow the wires from the switch and you wont have any problems. (I had to use the wire for my remote start installation.)
Either way is ghetto rigging it in my mind, (tape and jumper). What I would do is put a switch in a clever location and connect each terminal to each wire on the clutch switch. That way it could be optional to press the clutch down or not. Plus you have a backup in the highly unlikely event that the clutch switch goes out. Whenever I change something on my car I have to make it "more complicated". I usually dont settle for less complicated.
Theres actually 2 plunger switches for the clutch. The one you would need to splice into is the one against the cars body... if that makes sence.. the one thats NOT pressed in when the clutch pedal is in its normal position. The plug for it is apart from the switch. Just follow the wires from the switch and you wont have any problems. (I had to use the wire for my remote start installation.)
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- 03 MP5 / 92 TSI AWD
Plunger style switch? Just unscrew it, so its always open. I don't know the cars electronics yet, but this may prevent your cruise from working.
ELEmental59437
Member
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- 2002 P5, 1978 F250
scotthidley said:
There are two plunger switches. One that is engaged when the cluch is in its normal position which is the one that disables the cruise when the clutch is pressed (not the one we need). The other one (see last post) is the one that needs to be engaged for the car to start. And I dont belive unscrewing it will close the circuit (if it even unscrews). When the switch is pushed in the circuit is closed.
I hope thats not too confusing.
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- 03 MP5 / 92 TSI AWD
ELEmental59437 said:
I understand. I'm just going by how my Talon is setup (bad example I know). This is also how you do the remote start on manual tranny cars. I just put gas in my p5 for the first time yesterday, so I'm still kind of learning about these
here is a twist on the whole thing.....
set it up with your own switches that are tucked up and out of sight....set it up so that NORMALLY the circuit is made up and you don't need to push in the clutch to start the car....but with the flip of the switch it opens the circuit....but it does NOT enable the stock switch...but rather makes it impossible to start the car since that circuit is open.....sorta like you own seperate kill switch of sorts.....this could inhance an alarm system....
set it up with your own switches that are tucked up and out of sight....set it up so that NORMALLY the circuit is made up and you don't need to push in the clutch to start the car....but with the flip of the switch it opens the circuit....but it does NOT enable the stock switch...but rather makes it impossible to start the car since that circuit is open.....sorta like you own seperate kill switch of sorts.....this could inhance an alarm system....
ELEmental59437
Member
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- 2002 P5, 1978 F250
Sir Nuke said:
ooooo.... thats one damn good idea... i dont remember anyone talking about that on the kill switch thread, but i could be wrong.
if someone was desperate enough couldnt they just push start it if they were already in the car? just a thought, but still a gooood idea
My uncle in LA used to have a cut-off switch connected to his fuel pump. If somebody stole the car, it would start. They'd get maybe a block or two away and then the car would stall. It looked like a POS anyway so they'd just figure it was busted and ditch it. He had the car stolen on more than one occasion and he'd walk around a few blocks and find the car, turn the switch back on, and then drive off.
It it just doesn't start and they want the car, they may take the time to figure out why. Of course these days, I think a lot of people trying to steal cars just want to be fast and if it doesn't start they move on. I guess it depends on how good they are, how unique the car is, and how bad they want it.
It it just doesn't start and they want the car, they may take the time to figure out why. Of course these days, I think a lot of people trying to steal cars just want to be fast and if it doesn't start they move on. I guess it depends on how good they are, how unique the car is, and how bad they want it.
Kooldino said:
actually you can do what RX7 wants with just a simple toggle switch....
the switch that has this function is a simple two wire plunger type switch....its either on or off....so.....just take the switch that is in the car out.....take each wire and run it to either side of the toggle switch....close the switch (on position) and the circuit is made up and the car will start anytime you want it to.....open the switch (turn it off) and since the stock switch is no longer there...no matter how much you push the clutch in and turn the key...NOTHING is going to happen....
BUT....since all this does is intrupt the power to the starter solinoid.....YES....you could push start the car if you were already in it and going to steal it....HOWEVER....most theives wouldn't think that they could push start it...that it has some sort of electronic cut off on the car......and it would be more trouble than its worth and just leave.
If you are trying to bypass the clutch safety switch to install a remote start, all you need to do is find the black wire with the yellow stripe leading to the switch on the top of the clutch pedal. You can connect the +12V remote start output directly to this wire and no relays are needed.
ELEmental59437
Member
- :
- 2002 P5, 1978 F250
mazdadan said:
yup, thats what I did.. does anyone else notice that the topic has completly changed, yet we're still talking about the same wires?
