Clutch Chatter

[MTV]

Ok, so I've recently been experiencing clutch chatter in my 2002 P5. It feels like wheel hop and happens if I don't rev the car enough or if I let the clutch out too soon. It's more noticeable when the car is cold and only happens in first gear taking off from a standstill.

I have a feeling it's my motor mount. Everytime I start the car in the morning, I can hear it vibrate pretty loudly. During a warm start up, there is no vibration sound because the motor mount (being rubber) isn't as stiff. I can also hear the mount creaking as I go over bumps.

I am hoping it's the mount and not my clutch. I don't feel anything in any of the pedals when this happens so I doubt it is the clutch.

I will be going to the dealer to get this fixed sometime next week. For now I guess I'll just have to deal with it.

Does anyone know how long Mazda covers the mounts? And what are the prices?

And if it were the clutch, I've heard Spec are the best...what price would I be looking at? This is my daily driver so I don't want a performance clutch that's a pain in the ass for city driving, but something that feels similar to stock yet that can withstand abuse to a certain extent.

TIA.

Matt

 

[Mr.Ames]

my front and passenger side mounts were torn, so i put the AWR mounts in. my clutch chatter is even worse now. i'm thinking of bringing the TSB about it in to the dealer i bought my car used from. good thing i bought warranty, i'm gonna try to get them to do the synchro too when i get my motor rebuilt/replaced. might aswell do it all at once

 

[JoshP5]

Does anyone know how long Mazda covers the mounts? And what are the prices?

It's part of the 50,000 mile warranty. After that you're on your own. Go to onlinemazdaparts.com for prices.

And if it were the clutch, I've heard Spec are the best...what price would I be looking at? This is my daily driver so I don't want a performance clutch that's a pain in the ass for city driving, but something that feels similar to stock yet that can withstand abuse to a certain extent.

Check out the stock MSP clutch. It's better than stock and $200. Part numbers are on the Protege FAQ.

 

[P5inder]

And dont forget to get the flywheel machined or replaced...if replaced, but a better, lighter one...the the reason it chatters and wallops the car is because the flywheel develops hots spots and warps.

It happened to me...errr...mine. Bought an OEM exedy clutch and machined the flywheel...no issues since then...knocking on wood...

 

[MTV]

So if the flywheel is causing the chatter, then how come it only happens when the car's been sitting outside overnight? Since the mounts become harder when they are cold, I would think they're causing the problem, no?

Matt

 

[JoshP5]

Read the TSB.

 

[MyZmZm]

the mounts will be amplifying the problem if they are torn as the engine will move more, but the root of it is the clutch and flywheel sorry to say. i replaced (with aftermarket) the front and side mounts and while it sort of helped a little, the chatter was most definitely still there. as soon as i replaced the clutch (with the ACT stage 1, ie street, clutch) and flywheel, the problem was GONE. i also took the opportunity to put a new (aftermarket again) rear mount in. since then, i've not had even an inkling of the chatter coming back.

like others have said, read the TSB - i was 'lucky' enough to get the chatter in any weather, at any time, in first and in reverse.

 

[MTV]

So what is the best clutch to get for street use? Spec Stage 1???

Matt

 

[silverpro5]

Mine does this as well. Because there is a TSB on the issue, will the dealer replace my clutch/flywheel w/o charge?

 

[MyZmZm]

i can't speak for either the Spec or Exedy stage 1 clutches - buddy of mine has the exedy and loves it- but i LOVE my ACT clutch. basically, it feels like the way the car should have come from factory. a little stiffer and tighter, but still has great ease of use and is perfect for daily driving.

i elected NOT to go with a lightweight flywheel, but i did get a used 'stock' flywheel (from a '98 Probe) and got that lightened and balanced. it only shaved off about 3 lbs - i would have liked about 5 or 6 - but as i said, i have no hint of clutch chatter now.

 

[MyZmZm]

Mine does this as well. Because there is a TSB on the issue, will the dealer replace my clutch/flywheel w/o charge?

lucky you if they will - because it's a TSB and not a recall, they don't have to do anything. plus, like brakes, your clutch is a 'wearing' item and the chatter could be due to normal wear and tear (this is most likely what their argument will be). if you only had 10-15K on your clutch, they'd probably be more willing to do something, but if you've got more than 20 or 30K, chances are you'll get a big fat 0 out of them. but hey, it's worth a shot.

 

[silverpro5]

I will try talking to them about it, but I am the second owner, 106k miles, so really theres no way they are going to fix it for free. What purpose does a TSB serve? Just letting people know theres a defect but Mazda won't fix it on your vehicle?

PS. sorry for the thread jack

 

[NVP5White]

A TSB is an announcement of a known problem and the fix. The solution may be to replace a part under warranty, but unlike a recall it is only fixed when discovered by the customer and brought in to the dealer. Typically, recalls are only issued for safety and emissions equipment or for very expensive parts and/or systems on the car (i.e. whole transmission). A recall is very expensive because it involves ALL cars in a range, whether they experience the problem or not. TSBs focus only on cars where the problem is actively seen. Many TSBs can be issued for problems that only occur in a fraction of all cars (as little as 5%, depending on the problem and the fix).

 

[rednecks_r_us]

i can't speak for either the Spec or Exedy stage 1 clutches - buddy of mine has the exedy and loves it- but i LOVE my ACT clutch. basically, it feels like the way the car should have come from factory. a little stiffer and tighter, but still has great ease of use and is perfect for daily driving.

i elected NOT to go with a lightweight flywheel, but i did get a used 'stock' flywheel (from a '98 Probe) and got that lightened and balanced. it only shaved off about 3 lbs - i would have liked about 5 or 6 - but as i said, i have no hint of clutch chatter now.

I have the ACT stage 1 with a fidanza light weight flywheel. I love it. I really wish I would have made this swap years ago. Its how the car should have come from the factory. Its so smooth but has a firm feel to it. Its fine in city traffic with out killing your left leg.

 

[P5inder]

MTV/MyZmZm,


If the mounts are torn, the engine shaking will not be dampened...period.

If the mounts are not completely gone and are cold (harder than when warm), the shaking will be amplified because the transfer more of the shake to the rest of the car.

A TSB does not guarantee anything. It is designed to explain to the mechanics, in short-form what the fix is and why the fix needs to be done.

I had no such luck and I still had 5000 KM of warranty left. Then again, the car is from out-of-province.

The senior manager at the service area told me to save my money and machine the flywheel rather than buy a new one. He stated that they'd done several of these jobbies and that everytime, the flywheel was the culprit. I asked him whether it would happen again if I used the same flywheel. He stated that it would not as the problem lies in the combination of materials used on the stock clutch when paired with the stock flywheel.

Hope this answers your questions.

 

[Dimitrios]

The Fidanza's and most other aftermarket flywheels (Exedy, Unorthodox, et al) have replaceable friction surfaces (unlike the OEM). I'd save the headache and get rid of the stock flywheel.

 

[Sveivo]

Holy crap, I just found out I have clutch chatter .


So am I correctly identifying the bucking at slow takeoff as clutch chatter? I recently got stiff mounts put in. And OMG it's so bad. The problem was virtually not there with stock mounts.

 

[Dimitrios]

Holy crap, I just found out I have clutch chatter .


So am I correctly identifying the bucking at slow takeoff as clutch chatter? I recently got stiff mounts put in. And OMG it's so bad. The problem was virtually not there with stock mounts.

It won't buck as much as an actual "chatter" - the clutch will literally feel as if it's not grabbing. "Slip-stick" is about the best description I can describe it as.

 

[Sveivo]

It won't buck as much as an actual "chatter" - the clutch will literally feel as if it's not grabbing. "Slip-stick" is about the best description I can describe it as.

Oh, I see. Perhaps for right now I will try adjusting my driving habits to accommodate for stiffer mounts.

Perhaps I need to slip the clutch just a tad more to ensure a smooth takeoff. I feel that this is the correct way to drive, really, since up to this point I've just been letting the clutch out carelessly, thus lugging the engine somewhat.

Stiffer mounts do not let you do that. They let you know when your revs fall below 1000 rpm. Heh.

 

[Mr.Ames]

(werd) i have the full set of mounts, free back massage!