Check Engine blinking, motor vibrating, low speed/power

barberus

Member
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2003 PROTEGE5
Hello all, first post! And a challenging one too...
2003 Protege5, 107k
Here's what's happening: most of the time car runs ok although the check engine light is almost always on. On ocassion, and more frequently, when completely stopped, the revs will go down to almost zero (but it has NEVER turned off on me), the motors shakes and vibrates pretty badly making the whole front half of the car "jiggly", and the check engine light blinks.
When I hit the gas to move again it hardly accelerates. Little by little I get to about 45 or 50 tops. I can hear the transmission changing gears just fine but the car doesn't seem to move along with it.
Here's what my mechanic has done so far (a friend with his own shop and business): the diagnostic tool just says "multiple misfire" but doesn't zero in on the problem. He replaced spark plugs and wires, still the same. Checked fuel pressure, good. Cylinders working fine individually (I'm not good at this stuff, I don't know what that means). Valve cover gasket leaking a little bit, but he says that's got nothing to do with. Says it's gonna be an electronic issue or maybe the fuel pump but he's hesitant to work on it because he doesn't know how much it'll cost - and that scares me too.
So I take it to the dealer, pay $50 bucks right off the bat and they tell me the exact same thing (shoulda listened to my mechanic). They wanna dig in deeper but it'll cost me another $50 and of course, no promises that they'll find out what it is.

Anyone ever have this issue?
I will try to answer any questions as best as possible.

HELP!
 
Sounds like coil packs egr and possibly motor mounts if you got a flashing check engine light there's something worse that will come up when you fix these if you've had that code for awhile your precat is toast itl be p0421 when you fix the missfire code... cheap easy fix is the non fouler trick and gut the precat
 
Maybe a bad MAF, maybe injectors...it's probably a sensor of some type. No offense tweety, but it's not motor mounts, and he already changed coils. Could be the EGR but I would doubt it. Perhaps the IAC...do you know exactly what codes it is throwing? That might help narrow it down. By the way, when the CEL is flashing, you shouldn't drive it.

Edit: My bad, I thought your mech replaced the coils. Definitely coil packs...that's probably the problem. Have that done first before tackling anything else.
 
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Definately sounds like coils or a problem with wiring to the coils check for cracked frayed wires! Only about $30/ea for the coils from the local parts store. This is a new thing and other work hasn't been done recently that could have effected something.
 
My Mechanic says the code is just "300" but it's too general, which is the problem.

The CEL was on/flashing before I had the sprak plugs and wires replaced but it still did not change anything (I don't know if that's what you mean by "coil").
By the way I'm not understanding most of anyone's abreviations or acronyms... sorry. I'm not very familiar with mechanics. What is EGR and IAC?
 
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The coil packs (coils) are on top of valve cover (top of motor :)) which is what the spark plug wires plug into.
 
95% of us turbo pro's get that (been through 4 coilpacks myself) and probably 1/2 the na guys too eventually. It's most likely just one, and left and right are the same part... so spend $30 and swap it into the side that fixes the problem. If it was something else triggering the misfire like egr or iac you would have another code on top of p0300.
 
I changed the coils and wires on mine when I had a similar error. Didn't help. I changed plugs, and BINGO. they were the problem.
 
This just happened to me.... check your motor mounts!!!

I have some bad motor mounts and since the motor was moving more than needed it actually stretched the air tube from the throttle body to the MAF sensor and was letting air in a tear in the plastic, causing it to run like crap. The jerking is from the bad motor mount(s), and the rough idle is from the air going in after the MAF.
 
The vibrations happen at idle so not really motor mounts just the car keeping itself from dieing.I aparently wasn't paying attention when I read it the first time
 
Ok, so most of you have pointed to three things: plugs, wires or coils. Plugs and wires are new... I'm not sure any coils have been replaced so maybe I should have that done next.
The dealer did say that the valve gasket covers were leaking. Could that be indicative of anything? My mechanic said that is unrelated!
Thanks to everyone for their input so far!
 
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Your description sounds like a classic bad coil. You can easily do it yourself and get coils from rockauto.com for a good deal. It's a 10 minute job with 4 bolts.
 
Do the coils, vc gasket will not cause those misfire codes. If it's been awhile or you have never cleaned out the egr then I'd do that too. The car will like it.
 
And check the torque on the valve cover bolts before replacing the gasket. Many have found it was just loose bolts.
 
+1 coils, Airtex are identical to the Mazda Original Equipment . Stay away from the dealer. Trust the independent mechanic. Onlinemazdaparts.com, Rockauto.com for any parts you need.
 
Well I have not posted in a while since the yellow bomber has been runnin like a top but today was a different story. My son was driving up a hill close to home and all of a sudden he got a strong fishy smell and then the engine light came on and started flashing so he limped it home and now its got a rough idle and the light is flashing. I have read the previous posts and will pull the EGR and clean it out tomorrow but just wanted to ask if anyone has ever had that smell before their car started acting up. Thanks.
 

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