changing gears problem

DOMO

Member
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01 MP3, 03 MSP
hey guys new to the forum, have seen alot of diy stuff cant wait doing my own work :) .\
now for my real problem, i bought the car in august from a car auction house for 2500 but it had some issues so i got few things changed which ended up in me spending 4500 in total. what has been happening recently is that sometimes when put my foot on the clutch and try to change to 2nd gear the shifter wont go in and will not until i pump the clutch (sometimes i have to literally kick the pedal to the floor for it to work. it has happened to 4th gear too not as often but has happened. the same with rev tho in the mornings i cant get the stick into rev.

im not sure what to search for this kinda problem so this is why im starting a new thread. any help would be apreciated
 
170 k kilometers got it at 158 k. changed clutch when i got the car everything was good until i went to do my first oil change. the shop i was at old me my trans fuild was beyond low. aparently was driving with bout a cups worth of oil so they told me id need a flush and stupid me said ok. next day this thing started to happen
 
I hope they used the right trans fluid. 75w90 gl4

Trans fluid is pretty easy to check.

I remove the fill bolt. Remove battery. Remove speed sensor and fill till it pours out from fill bolt.

Bad motor mounts also can cause shifting problems.
 
car is bone stock first manual car ive owned. other than what i wrote like 2 weeks ago i got another oil changed at the same place. after the place changed my oil guy told me he toped up my trans cuz it was running low. dont know whats up and i would like to figure it out could it be something with the clutch?
 
im not sure its mr lube a franchise oil changing place and they used oil specified by mazda so i guess thats what they used . what if they didnt?
 
How exactly are they "checking" it? I'm not sure it's even possible to check without just adding gear oil....

Try bleeding the slave cylinder
 
they check the check plug to the left of the trans drain plug drivers side. and where is the slave cylinder and what does it look like?
 
I have the same problem with reverse sometimes. But the reason for that is the guy who owned it before me would throw it from one of 5 gears into reverse while rolling because he didn't feel like fully stopping. my fathers P5 is in much better shape then mine and his does it too. apparently nearly all of the transmissions from P5's have this problem. anyone else have this problem?
 
Oh so I'm not alone here lol . For me I have no clue about the lat owner because I got mines from a car auction and the cars that come there are usually trade ins at dealerships that don't want the cars
 
I have the same problem with reverse sometimes. But the reason for that is the guy who owned it before me would throw it from one of 5 gears into reverse while rolling because he didn't feel like fully stopping. my fathers P5 is in much better shape then mine and his does it too. apparently nearly all of the transmissions from P5's have this problem. anyone else have this problem?

I think that is a safety feature to prevent drivers from shifting to reverse thinking it is the next gear since not all gearboxes as the same. Mine does it sometimes.
 
From what I know yea they built it in so u can't go from 5th to rev by accident but its just weird personally That I can't go into. 2nd half the time or rev in the morns without pressing the clutch a few times.

I'm gonna bleeds the clutch hopefully this weekend and see what to do from there
 
100% sure there is air or some slack in the clutch system.

If Pumping the clutch will temporaroarly fix the problem, then I am sure that this is the problem.

Check the lines and fittings, for leaks, make sure that the bleeder was tightened (Dont Overtighten' taht Mofoz just becaus3 you are LAZY and want the car to work)

The system has to be Vac Bled. If you are concerned that you have no idea what that means, bring it to a garage.
 
100% sure there is air or some slack in the clutch system.

If Pumping the clutch will temporaroarly fix the problem, then I am sure that this is the problem.

Check the lines and fittings, for leaks, make sure that the bleeder was tightened (Dont Overtighten' taht Mofoz just becaus3 you are LAZY and want the car to work)

The system has to be Vac Bled. If you are concerned that you have no idea what that means, bring it to a garage.

I've always bled mine just like the brakes, I'm not even sure what vac bled is? But even a leaking caliper made my clutch act weird

And yes there is a lock out that doesn't allow it to go from any gear to reverse while moving forward. It's not the only car to do it so it is not weird
 
for the clutch is on the slave cylinder, under the airbox on top side of trans the rod pushes the clutch fork out, should be easy to spot.
 
as mentioned, brake problems can very quickly screw with the clutch disengagement system...

First, check the reservoir for brake fluid...the clutch slave cylinder uses fluid from the same reservoir...the strange thing is; the clutch siphon for the reservoir is very close to the top of it...where as the brake lines are all at the bottom...so if that reservoir gets just barely below the 'full' mark, you'll quickly pull air into the clutch system...

there is a bleeder valve identical to the brake caliper valves, on the front of the gear box bell housing...just to the left and underneath the factory air box...you'll have to remove the intake damper that runs along the top of the radiator to get access to it...

bleeding the clutch isn't hard, but its a little different than the brakes...the clutch cylinder moves A LOT of fluid when the pedal is depressed...enough that with one pump of it with the valve opened, you'll have to immediately add brake fluid to the reservoir before doing it again...this is the one spot on the car that i found easier to use a vacuum pump with...you can then pull out a lot less fluid with the pump, rather than the clutch pedal...

its also a little tricky because of how the slave cylinder works...with the pedal up in the car, you'll only pull fluid (and therefor air) from the cylinder to the actuator/valve...with the pedal down...you'll start pulling fluid from the reservoir itself...after each bleed, you'll need to move the pedal by hand up and down a few times to build up pressure again...it will usually just stick on the floor after the first attempt...
 
Ok sounds good . Good thing I just installed a cai so should be easy to find the bleeder when I have the time to look. When I bleed the clutch should I do the brakes as well? And what kind of brake fluid do I use ?
 
I have the same problem with reverse sometimes. But the reason for that is the guy who owned it before me would throw it from one of 5 gears into reverse while rolling because he didn't feel like fully stopping.

**That is being really rough on the gearbox. Reverse has no synchros, so if its hard to pick up reverse, you put the stick back into neutral,..then try again.

my fathers P5 is in much better shape then mine and his does it too. apparently nearly all of the transmissions from P5's have this problem. anyone else have this problem?

**My P5 manual was having pretty big probs getting into and out of, some gears. The clutch was slipping, so I got it changed. After that the shifting probs went away. You could get someone to operate the clutch [engine off] while you look down at the clutch throw-out lever, and make sure its travelling the whole way. Provided the clutch master-cylinder and slave cylinder are NOT wet with hydraulic fluid,..and you aren't continually topping up the master-cylinder resevoir [in Mazdas they have one resevoir shared by the brakes and clutch] then the clutch operating system is OK.

**Sometimes the clutch-shaft pilot bearing, which is located in the middle of the rear crank flange, can get a little grabby, which partially negates the action of the clutch. I think you said the clutch was replaced, so this should not be a prob :-)

J J
 
Ok update : went to my mechanic to get my car safety inspected to I could a new plate sticker for the protege. Found out my abs pump is toast and is leaking on the trans so that was causing my clutch problems. So now I need a new pump + control arms and ball joints , tires, rotors , and pads to pass safety fml. So now my focus is to get all those problems fixed so I can keep my baby on the road .
 

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