Changing front brake pads

[mrjoshyman]

For changing the front brake pads is the procedure the same as for the regular mazda 3? Like in this tutorial: http://www.wildweasel.ca/HowTo/Auto/Mazda3/FrontBrakeInstall.aspx ?

 

[MSMS3]

I'll tell you in a few days, as I'm about to do mine. From looking at the rotors, calipers, etc. and from several "how to's" to see if there are any special tricks, it appears to me that the R&R is pretty standard and like that would be on the Mazda 3. The front pads, however, are different from the Mazda 3. Rears are the same. I'm gonna do all four corners when the pads get here from SU.

 

[oaklandopen]

^^^so you're getting new rotors all around as well?

Id like to do my fronts this summer but I still have like 12/32 or so in the rear. I'm just not sure if I want to take the time to price out a resurface on the fronts or just get rotors. I'm sure they're within spec in order to resurface...only thing that id worry about is if they mess up the resurfacing

 

[spdjnke]

yup it's very similar to that, quite simple actually but be CAREFUL when you pry out the tension spring that bastard is under LOAD! other then that everything else is straight forward, have a rubber mallot ready for reinstalling the tension spring it will make things so much easier. both fronts should take a 1st timer an hour at most.

 

[spdjnke]

Rotors are fairly inexpensive now a days, IMO I don't see the need to pay to have it resurfaced any more. That way you don't have any down time and will have all NEW parts.

^^^so you're getting new rotors all around as well?

Id like to do my fronts this summer but I still have like 12/32 or so in the rear. I'm just not sure if I want to take the time to price out a resurface on the fronts or just get rotors. I'm sure they're within spec in order to resurface...only thing that id worry about is if they mess up the resurfacing

 

[mrjoshyman]

i'm probably going to give this a shot tomorrow. how big of a C-clamp will i need inorder to reset the piston? i'd estimate mine can open to about 3-4". i just don't want to have my car on jack stands and the brakes nearly off when i realize my c-clamp is too small

 

[spdjnke]

I would use a pry blade while the pad is still in to make things easier, if you have to use a c-clamp make sure it's one of larger models because of how the caliper is made you have to get it to clear the full width of the unit....I had to mod my caliper piston tool because of it.

 

[ohioan]

Rotors are fairly inexpensive now a days, IMO I don't see the need to pay to have it resurfaced any more. That way you don't have any down time and will have all NEW parts.

I beg to differ. Unless our idea's of money are different. I paid $30 to have my fronts turned. To get brand new rotors would've been $130 extra. To me, $100 is a decent amount of cash...

 

[oaklandopen]

I'm sure it depends on where you go. For me, $100 difference would make me want to go the cheaper route as well.

The only issue would be if the place does it right. If their machine is for s***, or they set it up wong, the rotors will end up warped, or the surface won't be right. I'm willing to sacrifice $30 then another $130 for new ones if they **** up the resurfacing. But I'm not willing to spend half of what a new rotor costs and then buying new rotors if they **** up the resurfacing. If that makes any sense

Regardless, I've been more than happy with the stockers, so I wouldn't be able to justify spending big bucks on rotors that are slotted, vented, exotic materials, or whatever. So I'm going to get myself a micrometer, measure the width, and if its within resurfacing spec ill check prices out

 

[Rotus]

When I did mine, I just used a pry bar while the pad and caliper was still in place. Pry against the caliper to get you started, then put a slim piece of metal between the rotor and pry bar ( I used a big flathead).

The spring comes out pretty easily, just make sure you have gloves or a rag on it to keep it from jumping across your garage. I reinstalled mine with two screwdrivers. One to hold it in place and one to pry it in.

 

[Wurf]

Rotors are fairly inexpensive now a days, IMO I don't see the need to pay to have it resurfaced any more. That way you don't have any down time and will have all NEW parts.

I fully agree with this statement. Too many times I've had rotors turned in the past and the reduced thickness makes them much more susceptible to warping later. The way I drive this car...no way. I get new rotors when I do the brakes.

 

[mrjoshyman]

i did the front pads today... it wasn't terrible but for some reason the caliper wouldn't easily come off the rotor. it required a lot of working and pulling to get it off. i installed the hawk hps pads that i got from PG.

idk if im just paranoid but i dont feel like the car stops as confidently anymore, again idk if this is my paranoia but i feel like i have to push the pedal in more than before in order for the brakes to really engage. anything i should check?

 

[Wurf]

Having experience with Hawk HPS in the past, I can say this sounds about right. They lack initial bite and don't quite feel right until they heat up a bit. Don't forget to bed them according to instructions, but do NOT over do it.

I personally don't like Hawk but other forum members here seem to think they are great.
I'll be getting all OEM parts when mine wear out.

 

[mrjoshyman]

"bed them"?

 

[Wurf]

Yeppers....check the instructions that came with the pads, or for your convenience:
From the Hawk site-

Note:
Hawk Performance burnishes its High Performance Street brake pads as a final step in the factory, but all brake pads have to be bedded-in with the rotors (new or used) that they will be used against. Properly bedding-in new brake pads results in a transfer film being generated at the pad and rotor interface to maximize brake performance.

1. After installing new brake pads, make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 30-35 mph applying moderate pressure.
2. Make an additional 2 to 3 hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph.
3. DO NOT DRAG BRAKES!
4. Allow 15 minutes for brake system to cool down.
5. After step 4 your new pads are ready for use.

 

[mrjoshyman]

dang, I didn't see any instrctions in my box. too late to do that now?

 

[ohioan]

You should still do it.

And the braking power will come after 500 miles of use. Treat em easy for those 500 miles before any aggressive braking. They will feel much better after that brake in.
Trust me. I thought the same thing when I did mine. Hawk makes good stuff. Just wear them bad boys in!

 

[ericrapp]

wow, you guys are lifesavers for our friend here, I was thinking he just might need to warm/drag them after start up. but now that you folks mentioned the break/brake in.
Well, i guess my point is that when brakes fail bad things often happen. When pads are new they need to go through heat cycles. If this is not done ( more so on performance pads/rotors) a glaze will form and the brakes really could become greasy.
Not to scare but nice save guys. And yes you can still do it^hawk makes good stuff and what the man from Ohio said.

 

[Rotus]

I think they specifically say NOT to drag them. Bed them per instructions, use for a break-in period and you'll be ok. I like the fact that the initial bite is not a dramatic, but that's personal preference. I'm never going to track this car so I'll take less initial bite in trade for less brake dust.

 

[ericrapp]

Not to argue by any means, But as with the red stuff pads EBC says to just drag them a minute when cold to clean and warm them. I just read it today on their sight which compares/ describes the color codes, same with rotors. as you move up the performance ladder to higher heat tolerant pads and rotors they need some warming to get to work.
I think the same applies to aggressive tires, they need to be brought up to temp. As i mentioned break in is a totally seperate animal and should be done correctly for long life and proper contact or maximum effective surface/swept area. The redstuff take a lotta miles to bed in, i mean alot. as per their directions