Changing brake pads for first time...bleed them?

[BoostedMP3]

I'm changing the front pads tomorrow and I've never done it before but I read the thread on how to and it looks fairly simple. Should I bleed the brakes after, and if so, how do I do it, or a link to the thread would help. thanks

 

[G-Papi]

When I do front pads I never have had to open the lines, and go slow enough never to lose any fluid from the top of the reservoit. (Make sure reservoir is full before you start) Result is that I never have to bleed them because the system hasn't lost any fluid, or gained any air. If you ever open a line, or suck air through the reservoir, you'll have to bleed them. Bottom line is that if you're in doubt, or if the pedal feels hard, or won't pump up, then bleed them anyways.

 

[Revs]

You don't have to bleed the lines if your just change pads, the only time you need to bleed the lines is if you are changing a caliper.

Changing the pads is super easy, just remove the caliper portion, leave the mounting bracket on. It should be one 10-12mm allen wrench and the caliper will slide off or flip up enough to put new pads in.

 

[winty87]

the back ones are a b**** and a half for your first time just for a warning shot

 

[G-Papi]

the back ones are a b**** and a half for your first time just for a warning shot

What makes it tuff is going to get the piston compression tool.
, or not knowing that you need one.

 

[mp3josh]

if you are mechanically inclined then go for it. But if you don't know how to lets say hmm change your oil then you should not tackle this You will need a 10 mm allen key for the rear brakes.

 

[winty87]

What makes it tuff is going to get the piston compression tool.
, or not knowing that you need one.

Yeah its just really inconvenient to take out that screw then get the allen in there and back it out then adjust so your brakes arent constantly scraping.

 

[BoostedMP3]

old thread, but i'm doing the back brakes tomorrow and was wondering how different the backs are to do than the front pads, the fronts were super easy but why do people say that its a b**** to do the back pads? just the allen key thing?

 

[Tzar177]

old thread, but i'm doing the back brakes tomorrow and was wondering how different the backs are to do than the front pads, the fronts were super easy but why do people say that its a b**** to do the back pads? just the allen key thing?

I found that it was a little more difficult than the front but certainly not hard. You will need a descent sized c-clamp to compress the piston in the caliper. You need to remove a 14mm? sized bolt to gain access to the allen head bolt. Loosen the allen bolt all the way. Remove caliper, keep inside brake pad in and use the c-clamp to compress the piston. Replace pads, bolt the caliper back on and tighten the allen bolt all the way. At this point the wheel will not spin. Loosen the allen bolt about a 1/2 turn. Tighten back the 14mm bolt over the allen bolt. Your ebrake will feel loose but thats normal. It will adjust itself and tighten up

 

[BoostedMP3]

so yesterday i changed my stock oem rear pads to the hawk kps ones and it took me forever. As you would think, the two caliper bolts were rusted one but some wd-40 and a couple pounds of a hammer on the socket helped out. Only thing i noticed that was a little weird was when i put the new pads on, the indicators for when the pad gets to a 1/4 left was all the way at the top of the pads. is that normal? will get adjust itself when i start driving it? do i have to pump the breaks or anything else after i finish putting everything back together? I re adjusted the piston with the allen wrench. somerthing just seems not right but i'm pretty sure i put everything on correctly; the pads just fit really tight on there. please help, i'm going to take it for a spin in a little bit to make sure everything it ok.

 

[winty87]

so yesterday i changed my stock oem rear pads to the hawk kps ones and it took me forever. As you would think, the two caliper bolts were rusted one but some wd-40 and a couple pounds of a hammer on the socket helped out. Only thing i noticed that was a little weird was when i put the new pads on, the indicators for when the pad gets to a 1/4 left was all the way at the top of the pads. is that normal? will get adjust itself when i start driving it? do i have to pump the breaks or anything else after i finish putting everything back together? I re adjusted the piston with the allen wrench. somerthing just seems not right but i'm pretty sure i put everything on correctly; the pads just fit really tight on there. please help, i'm going to take it for a spin in a little bit to make sure everything it ok.

It took awhile for the rear pads to wear down to where they dont rub anymore and it took a couple adjustments for me too. I still dont have them down to an exact science

 

[BoostedMP3]

did you notice the indicator all the way up high on the new pads like i did?

 

[winty87]

what indicator?

 

[BoostedMP3]

the little metal things that scratch on the rotor to let you know when they get low, they are on the top and bottom of the pads

 

[BoostedMP3]

see on the left side of the pad? when i put the new pads on, the indicator wasn't at the bottom of the pad, it was 3/4 up to the top of the pad, which means if it doesn't adjust itself, that i would rub on the indicator very soon instead of when the pads get to 1/4 left like they are suppose to