Car bogs under acceleration when warm

I still say its either coil packs or the MAF... Ive had coil packs only act up on me only going to work but never coming back from work. I think it had something to do with the outside temps but that was on a NA p5. Then again i was able to shut off the car and restart and it would be fine for the rest of the drive into work when I had that issue on my old p5.

Either way find someone local in your area with a protege and see if theyare willing to help you out by swappign MAFs for a short peroid of time.
 
My car has 175,000 KMs on it. I drive this car like an old lady so it can't be due to abuse. Has anyone ever experienced this or can anyone suggest what it may be?

I say its because you have 175KMs of pig rich induced carbon and clogged injectors combined with driving like an old lady. Only time I experienced what you described was the first 5 months of ownership driving unflashed.

Take your car out after seafoaming at least twice for now and then go on a spirited drive. Put some in your tank as well at the next fill up.
 
Here is a pic of my plugs that I just pulled. White tips and some carbon build up on the threads..don't think its bad enough to cause the bogging. Coil packs and wires are new also.. Do the plugs look as if the a/f is overly rich? I should probably get the flash done and stop procrastinating.

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Are those copper plugs? My car runs better with the laser iridiums or whichever came stock in them. As for the reflash, my car has it and it still has pretty horrible hesitation.
 
My next question for you is why are you running BKR7E plugs?

I've ran 2 sets of the stock plugs NGK stock no 3271 and am now on my 5th set of copper NGK stock no 4291 plugs. (ZFR6F-11). Stock pcm, flashed and no horrible driveability issues.
 
I run 25psi with heat range 7 plugs which you totally don't need (ZFR7F)!! Don't think thats totally your problem but definately not helping.

What's your plug gap? Have you cleaned your MAF as suggested?
 
Could be wrong but I don't think a BK plug is the right choice for an FSDE-T. And he definitely does not need any 7 series plug driving like a granny on an unflashed MSP pcm.
 
I have NGK-ZFR6F-11 installed right now, after I pulled those in the pic. Those plugs were at a gap of .28 I believe. The current ones have a bit more gap and the car is running well so far. I have been out of town and just returned so I will take my car for a drive tomorrow and see if it acts up again. I'm hoping the plugs had something to do with the problem, but I am also doubtful. Do you guys think the flash is worth the money? It doesn't sound like a sure fix for hesitation.
 
I have NGK-ZFR6F-11 installed right now, after I pulled those in the pic. Those plugs were at a gap of .28 I believe. The current ones have a bit more gap and the car is running well so far. I have been out of town and just returned so I will take my car for a drive tomorrow and see if it acts up again. I'm hoping the plugs had something to do with the problem, but I am also doubtful. Do you guys think the flash is worth the money? It doesn't sound like a sure fix for hesitation.

Those are the right plugs but you need to gap them correctly. They are gapped for N/A cars.

My car has the flash and it hesitates all over the place so I don't think it's worth it but that's my opinion.
 
I put about 80km's on my car today and it ran like new with no problems at all. This is after I changed the plugs to the proper heat range. I would like to note that a veteran mechanic at a local garage and also Mazda techs at a local Mazda dealer could not figure out that this was the fix for my problem. It seems as if there isn't a CEL to scream the problem at most mechanics than they won't know what to do.. Anyways, I would just like people to know that the proper spark plug for your boost level is not only a suggestion, it is a necessity.
 
I have pretty much the exact problem youre talking about except i have the stock smic, sunpro boost gauge, injen cai, & thermal catback exhaust. I have the exact same symptoms if I use more than 1/4th throttle i get bogging down.

Ive used fuel injector cleaner every 1.5k miles ive had coils, wires, plugs o2 sensor AND THE MAF all replaced within 8k miles (the coils were even replaced a few weeks ago). I only have the above problems when ive been driving around for about 30 mins or when i have extra passengers in the car.

Im starting to believe it has to be some sort of computer problem so please fill me in with what you've done and if its helped or made the situation worse.
 
sorry read page 1 without reading page 2. it seems like the plugs helped what plugs are u running now and what psi do you run bc i run a stock 7psi. i am also still considering a ss afc and wondering if that will help
 
wesklockmsp the prob is u have the side mount intercooler still if u have hard pipes for it ull be fine for a while a ssafc will deff help but will eventually need to upgrade that intercooler and reposition ur maf to have the air blowing through it and not being sucked through it that was a big prob on mine but then again these msp's all have the same probs and small stupid things could fix them or major expensive things either way when u buy one ur in for it unless u give up completly like ive wanted too a few times and almost $5000 ago
 
Thanks for the advice. ive been wanting to put a fmic in for a while but my funds keep getting sucked up from having to replace the wires, coils, egr, and the maf just to make it run from point a to point b.

the other day i went to drive and i was experiencing a lot of hesitation and even misfires. it even threw a CEL. I read the code and i dont remember the specific code but it said "multiple engine misfires detected" I didnt clear the code and then a couple of days later it went away on its own.

this would still be all part of the same problem right?
 
FAR too many people diagnose this as heat soak. It's like they don't even read the symptoms you are having like the car decelerating when you give it too much gas! I've had this problem for a long time. IT IS NOT HEAT SOAK! I had the turbohoses smic and hard pipes on my car, and that did not change or fix anything. The problem is definitely that your car is running too rich. You need to get an ssafc and tune it. I've gone through exactly what you are going through so I know about it. Seems like too many people on here don't even read the op and just spout out "DURR HURR HEATSOAK LOL" . -_- I guarentee the ssafc+tune will solve your problem. Make sure when you tune your car you have a wideband gauge. Tell us your readings before and after you tune it.
 
Actually the main problem with the OP is that he was running colder heat range High boost plugs at 7psi like I run at 25psi and mostly because they were gapped at .044 or higher as they appear in the pics on page 2.
 
Actually the main problem with the OP is that he was running colder heat range High boost plugs at 7psi like I run at 25psi and mostly because they were gapped at .044 or higher as they appear in the pics on page 2.

However, the post directly above mine states that he's still having problems... I've had this exact problem before. The car runs great before it warms up (open loop) but then once it warms up it will actually decelerate if you give it too much throttle. In my case before I got my ssafc, my car wouldn't boost at all below roughly 4750rpm and then suddenly it would lunge forward all the way to redline. People on this forum were still telling me it was heat soak, lol...
 
I believe it cold be a combination of bad tune,bad coils or wires, worn out fouled o2 sensor and heatsoak all in a huge shitstorm. I got an ssafc installed and I'm still having this problem I haven't switched the map on it yet though my front mount goes on Monday and I might talk to my mechanic about the tune.
 
unfortunately my problem has gotten worse and I think it is different than before.

My car now has random misfires all throughout the rpm range. it will still boost but occasionally the misfires occurr before 2k rpm

the cel has come on for random multiple misfires and then after a day or so of driving it shuts itself off and comes back on again the next day. the car is running terribly

I think its bad ignition wires/ or incorrectly gapped spark plugs/ maybe a cracked spark plug.

any thoughts?
 
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