Im done with this car. Traded in an ES for a car i thought i was upgrading to, all i got was clunk and hesitation, s*** not available on my ES.... This car is one big assed headache, dealer doenst acknowledge s***, says the ECU fix is for people wanting performance or some s*** like that. I wrote a long assed letter to mazda, i hope the local dealer will get ripped but i doubt they will. Im so ******* sick of this car and ive had it two weeks, id take my other protege back in a heartbeat. This will be the last mazda ill ever get probably, i dont care about reliability and s*** like that anymore. who cares how reliable a damn car is when s*** actually does go wrong dealers dont wanna help. They only care about money, if its warranty related or TSB related they must just try their best to escape the possibility of having to do work. This car is just s***, **** it plain and simple.
Can i take my mazdaspeed back?
- Thread starter MackDadam
- Start date
You cannot just take a vehicle back....it doesnt work like that, except under EXTREME circumstances. i worked at several car dealerships and people tried to sue us and everything to get us to take cars back, and we never took ONE back.
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Does the Lemon Law Apply to My Vehicle?
In order to find out if you could qualify for protection under the Lemon Law, please take a moment to answer the following questions, either YES or NO. If you answer NO to any of these questions, simply click NO.
Did you purchase or lease your vehicle NEW in the State of Florida? Yes No
Does your vehicle have a defect or condition that substantially impairs the use, value or safety of the vehicle? Yes No
a) Have you taken the vehicle to the dealership or an authorized service agent at least 3 times for the SAME substantial defect or condition? Yes No
-OR-
b) Has the vehicle been out of service for at least 15 cumulative calendar days due to one or more substantial defects or conditions? Yes No
(NOTE: If you answered yes to 3b, keep in mind that you must have at least 30 days out of service before requesting arbitration.)
Have you mailed by registered or express mail, return receipt requested, to the manufacturer of your vehicle (not dealer) the Motor Vehicle Defect Notification (MVDN) form which is located in your Lemon Law Handbook provided at the time of purchase? Yes No
Have you had a final repair attempt/inspection after the manufacturer received the MVDN? Yes No
Do you have work orders to verify the repairs to your vehicle? Yes No
---------------------------------
1A The Florida Lemon Law applies to NEW or demonstrator motor vehicles which are sold in the State of Florida. With few exceptions, a previously titled vehicle (used car) is not covered by the Lemon Law.
2A A substantial defect or condition is a problem that substantially impairs the use, value or safety of the vehicle. There is no easy answer to determine what types of defects or conditions substantially impair a vehicles use, value or safety. It depends on the facts of each case. Minor or trivial defects, or defects caused by accident, abuse, neglect, modification or alteration by anyone other than an authorized service agent are not covered.
3A There must be three repair attempts for the same defect or condition, OR at least 15 cumulative calendar days out of service for one or more defects or conditions, before submitting the MVDN. If you do not have the required number of repair attempts or days out of service, then continue to take the vehicle to the dealer for repairs.
4A After you have either at least three failed repair attempts for the same problem OR at least 15 cumulative calendar days out of service, you must file the Motor Vehicle Defect Notification by registered or express mail, return receipt requested to the manufacturer to give the manufacturer a final repair attempt or inspection on your vehicle.
5A If you put the manufacturer on notice for the defects or conditions, the manufacturer has 10 days from receipt of the MVDN to respond and direct you to a reasonable accessible repair facility to have a final repair attempt or inspection on your vehicle. If you receive no response from the manufacturer within 10 days after the date of receipt, the law states the manufacturer has then waived their right to the final repair attempt and you may proceed with your Lemon Law rights.
6A You must have work orders to support your claim. If you do not have copies of the work orders, contact your dealer for a list of all repair work performed on your vehicle.
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I did a little more research for you.
-----------------------------
Does the Lemon Law Apply to My Vehicle?
In order to find out if you could qualify for protection under the Lemon Law, please take a moment to answer the following questions, either YES or NO. If you answer NO to any of these questions, simply click NO.
Did you purchase or lease your vehicle NEW in the State of Florida? Yes No
Does your vehicle have a defect or condition that substantially impairs the use, value or safety of the vehicle? Yes No
a) Have you taken the vehicle to the dealership or an authorized service agent at least 3 times for the SAME substantial defect or condition? Yes No
-OR-
b) Has the vehicle been out of service for at least 15 cumulative calendar days due to one or more substantial defects or conditions? Yes No
(NOTE: If you answered yes to 3b, keep in mind that you must have at least 30 days out of service before requesting arbitration.)
Have you mailed by registered or express mail, return receipt requested, to the manufacturer of your vehicle (not dealer) the Motor Vehicle Defect Notification (MVDN) form which is located in your Lemon Law Handbook provided at the time of purchase? Yes No
Have you had a final repair attempt/inspection after the manufacturer received the MVDN? Yes No
Do you have work orders to verify the repairs to your vehicle? Yes No
---------------------------------
1A The Florida Lemon Law applies to NEW or demonstrator motor vehicles which are sold in the State of Florida. With few exceptions, a previously titled vehicle (used car) is not covered by the Lemon Law.
2A A substantial defect or condition is a problem that substantially impairs the use, value or safety of the vehicle. There is no easy answer to determine what types of defects or conditions substantially impair a vehicles use, value or safety. It depends on the facts of each case. Minor or trivial defects, or defects caused by accident, abuse, neglect, modification or alteration by anyone other than an authorized service agent are not covered.
3A There must be three repair attempts for the same defect or condition, OR at least 15 cumulative calendar days out of service for one or more defects or conditions, before submitting the MVDN. If you do not have the required number of repair attempts or days out of service, then continue to take the vehicle to the dealer for repairs.
4A After you have either at least three failed repair attempts for the same problem OR at least 15 cumulative calendar days out of service, you must file the Motor Vehicle Defect Notification by registered or express mail, return receipt requested to the manufacturer to give the manufacturer a final repair attempt or inspection on your vehicle.
5A If you put the manufacturer on notice for the defects or conditions, the manufacturer has 10 days from receipt of the MVDN to respond and direct you to a reasonable accessible repair facility to have a final repair attempt or inspection on your vehicle. If you receive no response from the manufacturer within 10 days after the date of receipt, the law states the manufacturer has then waived their right to the final repair attempt and you may proceed with your Lemon Law rights.
6A You must have work orders to support your claim. If you do not have copies of the work orders, contact your dealer for a list of all repair work performed on your vehicle.
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I did a little more research for you.
i know i was just being sarcastic on taking it back, i just wish i could get a better response from teh service department you know. its just bulls*** to play dumb, my friend has an mp3, he has been to this dealer to complain about the clunk, they even heard it. but when i go in there to complain about mine, supposively they have never heard of a clunk issue. now with that known, that i know they are lying to me, how can i trust them, a bunch of lazy *****
notice how they can get out of this law:
they can say its from misuse (you know how dealers love to blame us users)
they have one last chance to fix, which means if it really came down to it, im sure they would fix it to get out of your hair....then if you ever had the problem down the line again the whole process would PROBABLY start over again.
anyone that tells you that you can return the car or whatever is full of s***, and doesnt know what theyre talking about.
i can certainly understand your pain. ive a lemon car before that was far worse than your msp - not to downplay your situation or anything. unfortunately, the only thing you can really do after trying the lemon law (good luck, only ever met one person that has succeeded) is try to trade the car in, and appeal to the dealership saying hey this car sucks give me a good break on a different car. regardless, youre gonna have to take a huge hit, and youre prolly gonna be going from a higher car (MSP) to a lower car (P5 or Sedan), which means their markup is lower on lower priced vehicles.
How is this a problem? Well, being that the sedan and p5 are priced less and have less of a markup - say you bought your msp for 20k out the door (for simplicity sake), and you lost about 2k-2500 by driving it off the lot. now factor in milage since then (even though its prolly not much). now factor in the amount youve paid on it, and the principal youve prolly barely touched. now if you didnt pay for the TTL (tax, title, license) yourself (ie - not included in the deal/payments), add about another 800-1000 depending on the taxes in your hometown. this is how much you owe. now say the bank says the car is worth 17k, and you owe around 20k. so now the 13k dollar sedan now costs 16k plus TTL, and finance charges. Youll need especially good credit because the bank is either
A) not gonna finance you because you just bought a vehicle not that long ago, and thats a bad investment
B) not gonna finance you because the price of the vehicle with all that stuff i explained is way above what their computer says is safe
C) gonna finance you at a high interest rate and ask for a significant down payment to cover the upside down cost from your bad trade in.
and youll have a hard time at another dealer with different make of car because their not gonna understand or care about your situation with mazda.
im not tryin to be a dick, just trying to help to educate you to the way the car business works, and why i was so pissed when all the MSP owners were posting like you, but didnt want to do anything about it, and then flame me when i suggested to do something.
hope i could be of help, feel free to ask more questions.
they can say its from misuse (you know how dealers love to blame us users)
they have one last chance to fix, which means if it really came down to it, im sure they would fix it to get out of your hair....then if you ever had the problem down the line again the whole process would PROBABLY start over again.
anyone that tells you that you can return the car or whatever is full of s***, and doesnt know what theyre talking about.
i can certainly understand your pain. ive a lemon car before that was far worse than your msp - not to downplay your situation or anything. unfortunately, the only thing you can really do after trying the lemon law (good luck, only ever met one person that has succeeded) is try to trade the car in, and appeal to the dealership saying hey this car sucks give me a good break on a different car. regardless, youre gonna have to take a huge hit, and youre prolly gonna be going from a higher car (MSP) to a lower car (P5 or Sedan), which means their markup is lower on lower priced vehicles.
How is this a problem? Well, being that the sedan and p5 are priced less and have less of a markup - say you bought your msp for 20k out the door (for simplicity sake), and you lost about 2k-2500 by driving it off the lot. now factor in milage since then (even though its prolly not much). now factor in the amount youve paid on it, and the principal youve prolly barely touched. now if you didnt pay for the TTL (tax, title, license) yourself (ie - not included in the deal/payments), add about another 800-1000 depending on the taxes in your hometown. this is how much you owe. now say the bank says the car is worth 17k, and you owe around 20k. so now the 13k dollar sedan now costs 16k plus TTL, and finance charges. Youll need especially good credit because the bank is either
A) not gonna finance you because you just bought a vehicle not that long ago, and thats a bad investment
B) not gonna finance you because the price of the vehicle with all that stuff i explained is way above what their computer says is safe
C) gonna finance you at a high interest rate and ask for a significant down payment to cover the upside down cost from your bad trade in.
and youll have a hard time at another dealer with different make of car because their not gonna understand or care about your situation with mazda.
im not tryin to be a dick, just trying to help to educate you to the way the car business works, and why i was so pissed when all the MSP owners were posting like you, but didnt want to do anything about it, and then flame me when i suggested to do something.
hope i could be of help, feel free to ask more questions.
posting like me razor? ive had the car two weeks.....never made an ecu post or clunk one do a search youll see. so im not one of those guys you were refering to. even when i had just the sedan i never even really posted in the 3rd gen section. oh well though thanks fir the help
k thats cool. im not really all that upset, i made out pretty well on the msp. and financed less than what its worth. so my anger wouldnt come from what id lose, i could probably go back, break even on trade and get something else. granted i did lose a little on trade in and money down but thats money is already lost and i would not have to worry this time. but what angers me is that a new car shouldnt have all these problems. especially not an 03 that was sitting around for all year on their lot. they should have flashed that s*** before i bought it, like i said, they are just lazy in my opinion
I couldn't agree more Mack. Trust me, there is NOBODY, NOT ONE PERSON that hates dealerships more than I do.
I've said it before and I'll say it again - the first car manufacturer that just starts selling cars direct from the factory and surpasses all the dealer BS will get my business. They should sell them direct and then allow you to "buy" a warranty that would act similar to health insurance. If you bought a warranty you could then take your car to ANY mechanic that you want and he'd be paid just like an HMO would pay your doctor's bills. And for those that are mechanically inclined and like to mod their cars to high heaven, they could just save the money and not even bother with the warranty - meaning all repairs would come out of their pocket.
I see no reason that couldn't work because the way it is now is exactly like you describe -- you're paying for a warrenty even though ALL dealerships are lazy SOBs that will avoid ALL work at ANY cost and will tell any lie no matter how big if they think it will get you to go away. The "system" needs to change.
I've said it before and I'll say it again - the first car manufacturer that just starts selling cars direct from the factory and surpasses all the dealer BS will get my business. They should sell them direct and then allow you to "buy" a warranty that would act similar to health insurance. If you bought a warranty you could then take your car to ANY mechanic that you want and he'd be paid just like an HMO would pay your doctor's bills. And for those that are mechanically inclined and like to mod their cars to high heaven, they could just save the money and not even bother with the warranty - meaning all repairs would come out of their pocket.
I see no reason that couldn't work because the way it is now is exactly like you describe -- you're paying for a warrenty even though ALL dealerships are lazy SOBs that will avoid ALL work at ANY cost and will tell any lie no matter how big if they think it will get you to go away. The "system" needs to change.
- :
- 2003.5 Titanium Gray MSP #1699
If you want to fix the hesitation, come over to Orlando (actually Longwood) & get your ECU reflash at Cory Fairbanks Mazda. The service department there is great!
Hey MacDadam sorry to hear of your misfortunes. Hey I bought my car at Courtesy and THEY SUCK! Man I was ready to knock the service guy on his ass. I am a mechanic and know what the **** I am talking about. I first got there and I was'nt offered any rental which I needed and then he said most of the problems I had never happened to any Mazda Speed he had seen. I went back after work in my FORD uniform and he was all surprised and changed all his answers and the way he treated me. **** them in thier asses.
TampaBlackMSP, who has some mods, went to Ferman in Tampa and he said they were extremly cool and had a rental car for him to. I plan on going there instead when I get flashed, still not sure.
On a side note these MSP's are pretty nice they just need some basic bolt on's and it will become a totally be a different car. If ever in need of any help feel free to PM me BTW. - Chris
TampaBlackMSP, who has some mods, went to Ferman in Tampa and he said they were extremly cool and had a rental car for him to. I plan on going there instead when I get flashed, still not sure.
On a side note these MSP's are pretty nice they just need some basic bolt on's and it will become a totally be a different car. If ever in need of any help feel free to PM me BTW. - Chris
Mack.. I know EXACTLY what you mean. I'd post my "issue list" again but I'd piss people off thinking I was needlessly bitching about my car. 
Anyway, the best advice I can give to you, from my own experience, is find a dealership with a service department that you like. They do exist. My car has been in the shop averaged around once every three weeks. I don't drive the piss out my car as some think but I do get on it some weekends. My old Accords were put through a LOT more crap due to my immaturity at the time (like off roading, launching over hills and getting massive air time, neutral drops, etc) and they never gave me any problems.
I bought this car hoping to have a perfect dream car and even my neighbors joke around and makebets about which color rental car I'll have coming up the next week. I feel your pain, if not more, but this car is truly a love/hate relationship. I LOVE the hell out of this car, even though it has some issues I don't like. I've thought many times about trading it in but all it takes is for me to go out and spend some time washing it and the love the back.
I hope everything works out for you.
Anyway, the best advice I can give to you, from my own experience, is find a dealership with a service department that you like. They do exist. My car has been in the shop averaged around once every three weeks. I don't drive the piss out my car as some think but I do get on it some weekends. My old Accords were put through a LOT more crap due to my immaturity at the time (like off roading, launching over hills and getting massive air time, neutral drops, etc) and they never gave me any problems.
I bought this car hoping to have a perfect dream car and even my neighbors joke around and makebets about which color rental car I'll have coming up the next week. I feel your pain, if not more, but this car is truly a love/hate relationship. I LOVE the hell out of this car, even though it has some issues I don't like. I've thought many times about trading it in but all it takes is for me to go out and spend some time washing it and the love the back.
I hope everything works out for you.
C
cdglowp5
The Rear clunk noise is due to the Racing beat springs not seatting correctly on the tokico struts. This happen when I put them on my protege 5 for a test with some one that has a speed. The H&R springs which lowers the car to 1.35 did not make a clunk noise on the proteg5 nor the mazdaspeed.
The hesitation can be corrected by the ECU reflash or splitting a vacuum hose with a tee. I forgot who did this. Ask RYAN from Tennesse he will help you out.
The hesitation can be corrected by the ECU reflash or splitting a vacuum hose with a tee. I forgot who did this. Ask RYAN from Tennesse he will help you out.
You can always try going to another dealership. Or, go in to the dealership's sales department when there are a few customers around and say in an above average speaking tone "I would like to speak to the sales manager about why the service department fails to fix warrenty issues". I have does this and I assure you, it will get someone's attention. Especially if you mention that you would be willing to do it on a weekly basis until you warrenty issue is resolved.
