Cam install help (urgent)

[freekwonder]

ok i have the J-spec cams in my car. from what i can tell in the manual this is how i have them installed.

the I and E on the cams are lined up, the lobes on the intake cam point towards the car, the lobes on the exhaust cam point away from the car (this is all on cylinder 4, the last one on the passanger side) and the key lock for the crank pulley is pointing up.

when i try to start the car she stumbles, finally starts, idles REALLY rough and then stalls. can someone please help me. the manual really isnt all the help full.

like i said this is urgent i need to have my car on the road by tuesday. thanks guys.

 

[perfworks]

first of all cylinder no.1 is the one by the "belts" passenger side . Cylinder #4 is by the tranny
the I cam should be the one near the fire wall. The E should be by the exhaust side.
Now the two marks should be next to each other when at TDC. make sure the crank and the I and E are facing each other. let me see if i can find my pics.

if you are around PM me and ill get you my number to help you

 

[perfworks]

Here scroll down till you see the pics of the motor together with the cams and sprockets together. You will see the I & E are directly next to each other. The crank is at TDC which means the dowel pin will be directly at 12 oclock. Make sure it is not 1 tooth over to any side when the belt goes on

http://www.mazdamp3.com/vbb225/showthread.php?s=&threadid=17683&perpage=15&pagenumber=3

 

[perfworks]

also she probably will stumble for a bit till she corrects herself with the cam timing.
diconnect the battery and wait 10 minutes. then connect her again. try to start

 

[freekwonder]

no that explains the problem. the manual i have (the shop manual) screwed me up. I always though cylinder 1 was on the passanger side (by the timing belt) but the manual made it look like it was on the drivers side. thanks for the help man. also the lobes on the cams. when the I and E are facing each other (which is how i had it) which way should the lobes be pointing on the cams.

and thanks for the help man. i REALLY REALLY REALLY appriciate it.

 

[perfworks]

everything cool now??
good

 

[freekwonder]

ya, thanks for all the help man. i cant tell you how much it helped.

 

[lamp3]

Hey man! I want to know your opinion of them when ya get them in. I'm considering it . Want to know what ya think.

 

[freekwonder]

i got them in. i havnt really opened it up yet still giving them some time to break in. but it feels like it picked up in the high end. Im going to get some of my buddies to drive my car since they drove it before cams they will tell if there is a difference also.

 

[kopp0041]

I'm getting ready to do this install myself and I want to make sure I understand everything. The lobs on the I and E should face away from each other the I facing the rear of the car and the E facing the front of the car. All on Cylinder #4 by the tranny. Is that right?? Also make sure the I and E on the gears are facing each other to ensure TDC. Do you put any loobe or grease on the new cams? Disconnect the negative Battery Terminal and wait 10 min, reconnect and rock n' roll. Sound right??

 

[freekwonder]

all on cylinder #1 by the timing belt. and yes the lobes should basicaly be facing away from each other. and i coated the cams in assembly lube i got form autozone. disconnect the batter for 10 min then rock and roll man.

 

[p5sundevil]

if u dont want to wait 10 minutes disconnect the neg cable and then pump the brakes, this dras electricity and will empty out the rest thats in the capacitors and other electrical items. just basically resets the ecu to learn the new specs of the new mods.

i did it even after just a ground wire install just in case.

I also have a question concerning cams though.
I am not sure if I am goig to do the Jspecintake and mazdaspeed exhaust cam combo or have some ground to custom specs yet but about the break in period, I heard u dont want to go over 4k too much during break in, but for how long?

 

[kopp0041]

So on cylider 1 not #4, right? The cylinder by the timming belt is #1.

 

[AnthonyO3]

during the cam install, the I and E on the cam gears should line perfectly next to eachother, you should lube the cam with engine oil, make sure that the camshaft caps are all in the right order. The end of the camshaft with the little pointy thing should be facing the cam gears. Just take your time and everything will workout, And torque down the bolts to the right pounds on the camshaft caps i think its 10lbs. Any other questions i will try answer the best to my ability.

 

[twilightprotege]

sundevil, installing cams is like putting in any new part to an engine that moves. it needs time to settle, get it's own moving track so to speak. i wouldnt recommend going over 4k for atleast 500miles after installing new cams....then you can start moving around in the rev range. letting it sit at 4k for 5 minutes, 6k for 2 minutes, 3k for 10 minutes, 5k for 5 minutes....after that you should be pretty right. might be a good safety check to take off your head cover and have a look and check clearances and bolt torques etc....then you'll be a very happy camper. it's like breaking in a new engine. take a little time at first and your engine will give you years and years of trouble free driving afterwards

 

[perfworks]

the most important part is the torque sequence. YOU NEED to tighten down every cap individually FIRST and then torque them all. start with one cam at a time. Second make sure you rotate them slightly to make sure the caps go on right and you have the proper clearance.
Also make sure all the journals are clean and free from debris. IF ANYTHING gets in them it will score your cam up for good on start up

 

[kopp0041]

"journals" what are those?? I haven't heard antthing about them nor have I seen anything about them in the shop manual.

 

[RyanJayG]

the journals hold the bearings, which hold the cam in place ( and the crank shaft has them as well)

 

[MikeBlueP5]

there arent actual bearings like there is for the crankshaft, but they are cast into the head. aka cam journals. there arent any bearings to mess with like down below, but the caps.
And another thing for you guys that have done this. I worked in a machine shop for 2 years. Worked on aluminum cylinder heads, tearing them apart and rebuilding. My q is what all did you have to take off? Of course the valve cover, and you have to releive the timing belt tension, so therefore access to the tensioner is required. Does this require the removal of pulleys, and belts? just wanna know before i dive into this project. and i do have the shop manual if i need it.

 

[twilightprotege]

if you want to know a few more answeres, then yes, workshop manual....check out this thread i started too...

http://www.msprotege.com/vbb225/showthread.php?threadid=30412

that's a bit of a discussion about installing cams, esp the shims if you dont already know about them