Calling all AMP/Stereo experts...

chief_wiggum

Member
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2008.5 Mazdaspeed3-2010 Mazda5 GT
Alright, here's the situation; I'm fed up with the crappy sounding B(l)ose stereo and am looking to improve the sound quality. Here's what I want; I want good quality sound at a reasonable price. I'm not looking for super bass, I'm not looking to wake the neighbors and I'm not looking at gutting the entire system and starting over. My understanding from browsing the eleventee billion threads is that at least part of the problem lies in the stock amp;

Question 1 - can I expect better sound quality by replacing the stock amp with something better? If so, what kind of amp should I get; 2 channel, 4 channel and what's all this stuff about low and high bypass - as you can tell, I know very little. Channels correlate to speaker output, i believe, but other than that, I'm lost. If I go 4 channel, do I run it to the two fronts and two backs and ignore the factory baby sub? I'd likely purchase from Crutchfield due to gift cards I can redeem.

Again, I'm not looking for a competition sounding system and I'd likely upgrade the factory speakers in the front with either some nice component speakers or something better than what is currently in there.

Thank you in advance for your assistance and knowledge.

Sorry; this is very much like a previous thread I started -- still appreciate any comments
 
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I would say that your looking for a 5 channel amp with good built in crossovers for your stock speakers. for a good clear sound I'd look at JL audio.
 
I would say that your looking for a 5 channel amp with good built in crossovers for your stock speakers. for a good clear sound I'd look at JL audio.

The only downside is 5 channel amps are kind of pricey; my commute to work is only 15 minutes, so I don't spend long periods of time listening music, otherwise I'd be more tempted to drop $400 or so on a good quality 5 channel.

If I get a decent 4 channel, and run just the fronts and route the rest to the sub (run in a 3 channel mode which I think I can do based off Crutchfield's website), will that be too much power to the baby sub? For instance this Rockford Fosgate model
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R3004/Rockford-Fosgate-Prime-R300-4.html?tp=35782
Tri-Way Mode: 50 watts RMS x 2-channel in 4-ohms @ 20-20,000Hz with 1% THD + 150 watts RMS x 1-channel in 4-ohms @ 20-20,000Hz with 1% THD
 
just change your speakers to all of them to alpine good sound not too much and that should take care of your carpy noise from bose they stand for no highs no lows no mids must be bose hhhaaaa sorry they just suck. as for the stock amp by pass it and your sound will improve lots just run the speakers off the deck them selfs. cheapest was is to eliminate the stock amp totaly and then if that does not sound good to you you can replace the speakers and still run them off the deck other option is to put aftermarket deck in and that will improve sound as well good luck any thing you do will sound better
 
I say go 4 chan to all 4 speakers, replacing Bose amp and speakers, ignoring (removing) the Bose "sub." That's what I did, at least, and now I love my car.
 
Deja vu all over again? (lol)

I'd still recommend that Kicker amp in a heartbeat. You have no idea the headache you will save yourself by getting an amp with differential inputs. Ignore this advice at your own risk. (sick)

just run the speakers off the deck them selfs.

I shudder at the thought of how much POWA he can get from line-level outputs. (boom03)

All jokes aside, you can *try* the bose sub with a real amp, but don't expect a miracle. I have songs that could make it fart even when the system was 100% stock, so putting any real power to it will just bring out the worst. If you can stretch your budget to 300 dollars, you can get a good amp, a good sub, an 8-gauge wiring kit, and all the install odds and ends.
 
just change your speakers to all of them to alpine good sound not too much and that should take care of your carpy noise from bose they stand for no highs no lows no mids must be bose hhhaaaa sorry they just suck. as for the stock amp by pass it and your sound will improve lots just run the speakers off the deck them selfs. cheapest was is to eliminate the stock amp totaly and then if that does not sound good to you you can replace the speakers and still run them off the deck other option is to put aftermarket deck in and that will improve sound as well good luck any thing you do will sound better

I thought it was all highs no lows must be bose. If it was no highs no lows no mids wouldnt that be no sound at all?
 
Deja vu all over again? (lol)

I'd still recommend that Kicker amp in a heartbeat. You have no idea the headache you will save yourself by getting an amp with differential inputs. Ignore this advice at your own risk. (sick)

I know, I know -- I was looking at the link you sent me last time for the Kicker Amp (I believe it's even cheaper now).
 
I threw an Infinity Basslink II in the hatch and called it a day. Gives me all the complementary oomph I need, plus you can use the built-in amp to power the door speakers with an accessory.
 
This is what I would do in your situation :

1) Buy a set of decent component speakers for the front doors ( I recommend Alpine SPR-17S--pretty cheap but awesome sound)

2) Buy a decent four channel amp (Alpine, JL Audio, Kicker, Rockford Fosgate...etc). Make sure the front channels can push out at least 50 watts rms per side and the rears can be bridged to push out at least 150-200 watts rms.

3) Buy a decent 10" sub and enclosure (maybe jack enclosure?)

4) Hook up the front channels of the amp to the front door speaker...Hook up the bridged rear channels to your new 10" sub. This should now be about 200,000 times better than anything the stock Bose system can offer. In order to get decent sound from this vehicle's stereo, you need to replace the stock amp and upgrade the door speakers. The rear speakers can be left alone. Replacing them would do nothing for you. Shop around for deals on amps and speakers, and this really shouldn't cost you that much
 
their quality from bose are just not their, they just have not improved on them since day one for me they are just advertised ALOT so they must be good right but thats just my 2 cents though
 
I was thinking about this too; what speakers did you end up with?

Some Infinity components. (Note that they're 2 ohms.) For the rear, I just picked up some $20 coaxials that were on sale at onlinecarstereo.com.

I almost went the front-components-rear-bridged-to-sub route, but I like a very full midrange sound with decent bass more than I like bumpin' bass (I guess I'm getting old!). That route would have been more expensive, too.

I wanted to bridge my 4 chan down to just the fronts, just to see what it was like, but those speakers, being 2 ohms, wouldn't have handled it.
 
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I was not looking for competition sound but found it. I have a Rocksford Fostgate P3 sub in a custom box bolted to my trunk, powered by a 2 channel amp. Then I have 4 Alpine Type-R Speakers and 2 Tweeters powered by a 4 channel amp.

It sounds amazing, a lot of bass and clear, quality sound, but it doesn't wake the neighbors, the sound is circulated well in the car and the car blocks most of it from getting out. The bass is non-directional so yes, neighbors can hear (and sometimes feel, in my case) my bass when it is up rather loud.

I didn't spend too much (2 grand ish) on all of it installed (since I don't trust myself with 1700 dollars worth of equipment to install.

I would say don't spend money on a new sub if you don't want something too much, just replace the amp, it should help it perform better. And replace speakers if you want better sound. Amp that too for clarity.

Good Luck.
 

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