Buying a new CX-5 in NJ. Any advice?

[craigo]

My father does similar moves with salesmen. Heck, if I had a dollar for every time he told the dealer that another dealer down the road offered a better price and starts fiddling with his phone to "pull up" an E-mail quote, they instantly drop the price.

Around here the dealers are all the same owner so this trick doesn't work.

It's difficult to know what the cost of the vehicle to the dealer really is. They'll go get the "invoice" to show you how little they are making, but there are various back-end manufacturer->dealer reimbursement schemes that aren't covered by that that ensure the dealer still makes money, even if they literally charge you invoice.

They won't lose money on the sale. If they'll let you walk out the door and leave, you've hit bottom. Or, if inventory is low and its a hot selling vehicle and are confident it'll move soon.

 

[bmninada]

They're out there to make money and you're out there to save money, so it is a tough battle. The thing I also have noticed is that if you arrive to the dealer with a fairly new car, chances are you're not in a huge rush to get rid of it so it'll be harder for the salesman to make the sale. If you're coming in with a old POS, chances are you need a new car, thus chances are high for the salesmen to get the sale.

I actually go with the most rundown car spewing gas. Me poor, me ignorant, me no money, me no credit - works fantastic.

 

[craigo]

My favorite new car purchase was when I bought my 2010 F-150. I had a very specific list of options the truck needed to have, the engine, rear-end ratio, back-up camera, etc. and certain options we didn't want on there at all. We were preparing to buy a horse trailer for my wife's horse and needed a tow vehicle. Also needed a truck for firewood cutting. After scouring an entire 5 state area, there were zero vehicles with our very specific and non-negotiable specs and we didn't want the delay of a factory order. But we were about to bite the bullet and special order one when an Internet search finally turned up the exact truck we were looking for, right down to the color and it was only 40 minutes away! I didn't want to over pay so I devised a plan because this was the only truck within a 1000 mile radius that was properly equipped.

Ford has a plan for employees and their families called the X-plan that provides the lowest, no-haggle price. I didn't qualify. But I called up the dealer and asked them if they would honor the X-plan price on that blue F-150 I noticed on their lot, but I didn't mention that I didn't qualify for the X-plan. He assured me they would and I told him I'd be right over. When the salesman showed me the truck I just commented on how much I liked the deep blue color. He asked me what I needed a truck for and I put on a sheepish look as I told him "Honestly, I don't really need a truck, I just want one and that blue color looks great." This sent the message that they had an impulsive buyer and they needed to close the deal now or potentially lose it. He said we should go on a test drive and I told him I didn't have time because I had to pick-up my wife in an hour and she's not too keen on the truck thing, let's just sign the papers and be done with it. He didn't want to close the deal without a test drive but I insisted.

So we had all the papers filled out with the rock bottom employee X-plan pricing when he asked me for my X-plan registration number. I dropped my jaw and looked shocked telling him they confirmed over the phone that they would sell that truck for the X-plan pricing. They explained it was only for people who qualified for the plan and if I didn't, we could still work out a deal but it would be more. I said this whole thing was a bad idea and I better go pick up my wife before she started wondering where I was. Shortly the manager came out and said "If we give you the X-plan price, you'll buy this truck right now?" I looked him right in the eye and acted like I was considering the potential wifey repercussions (but she actually wanted that truck more than I did), put on a brave face, looked at my watch and said "If we can close this deal in 15 minutes, I'll go get a cashiers check from my nearby CU right now." He said, "Mr. Mike, your personal check is good with us, let's do it!".

And that is how I bought the only F-150 that met my very specific specs for the lowest possible price and kept the wife happy at the same time! It was a win/win/win situation and I was out of there in under an hour. You should have seen the quizzical and confused look on the salesman's face when my wife drove the truck off the lot!

X-Plan formula is something like Invoice - (0.004 * Invoice). So, not huge savings ($40 for every $10,000 on invoice) but I suppose it saves time.

 

[seev.1]

I'm in the process of buying a CX-5 in NJ. It has not been easy to gather information, so I thought I'd share what I found so far here and ask for advice.

I ruled-out some dealerships before getting an actual quote because they were pushy and/or not forthcoming with actual pricing and fees. These include Action in Flemington (NJ), Lodi Mazda (NJ), and Island Mazda (NY).

Here are the best quotes I received for a CX-5 GT AWD with the tech and I-activsense packages. Hopefully they will be of use to someone else who is also looking for a new CX-5. Sale prices include all pre-tax fees (e.g., destination, ad fees, etc.). Out the door (OTD) prices include sales taxes and other post-tax fees (doc. fee, title, registration, some surcharges that were not properly explained, etc.). OTD prices do not include any of Mazda's incentives for mazda owners, military personnel, recent college grads etc. I think a large share of buyers will get an additional $500 bonus through those.

Wayne (NJ) 31,575 (sale), 34,897 (OTD)
Palisades (NY) 32,145 (sale), 35,374 (OTD)
All American (NJ) 31,397 (sale), 34,626 (OTD)
Irwin (NJ) 32,389 (sale), 35,349 (OTD)
Hamilton (NJ) 31,995 (sale), 35,011 (OTD)

I'm continuing to collect additional information in this spreadsheet (https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1U5kLHE-XK50q_szKAhgc9GhYLele-6osJnaKiHs4oIE/edit#gid=0) and want to select one with an good price for a configuration I like. But collecting enough data points to make an educated choice has been a challenge.

Wayne Mazda offered me one of the best prices so far, but my experience there was very unpleasant. It's a headache-inducing, high-pressure sales floor. They charge $299 for VIN etching (see http://www.consumerlawgroup.com/blog/2014/06/games-dealers-play-vin-etching.shtml) and an exorbitant $399 doc. fee. Yet, it may be impossible to avoid them altogether because they have a huge inventory (340 2016 CX-5s right now).

My best interactions were via email with Irwin Mazda in Freehold (NJ) and Hamilton Mazda in Hamilton (NJ). They were transparent about their fee structure and gave me their best quotes fully itemized via email along with a link to the window sticker, so I know what they are promising to sell for that price. The Internet sales person at All American Mazda in Brick (NJ) is also super nice (no pressure, good customer service) and they offered the best quote I received so far, but they snuck in a $299 fee for vin etching (red flag).

TRUECar and Edmunds were an ok place to start, but I did not receive very good quotes through them. The quotes above were only offered after I exchanged emails with Internet sales reps at the dealerships. And in-person at Wayne Mazda.

This is my first time buying a new car and I'm starting to wish it could be the last. How did you do this?

=====================
to add another data point, donlt know how useful since i am in CA,
2016.5 GT white pearl with Tech package + Roof rails : 32K OTD

 

[Mariana]

Excellent point. But I'm not even trying to get a "great deal," I'm doing all this to get a sense of the "market price." I went to Wayne to buy the car on Saturday and they showed me an invoice for 37K and asked me how much I wanted to pay, basically forcing me to haggle. Then they refused to explain what the fees were for, even said that the "ETCH" fee was included in "every new car." It sounded fishy, so I had to give-up, come home, and do some research. That's how I fell into this rabbit hole.

 

[Mariana]

my advice is don't kill yourself over getting the best price. the fact that all your OTD prices are within $1000 of eachother tells you that you've found the true market value. buy the car where you want it and enjoy it. it is a nice car.

That's a very good point. I never thought it would be a bargain to buy a new car in the middle of February. But I had to do all this research just to figure-out what the cars might actually cost.

 

[fdew]

If you want to push, you could check in some nearby state with a lower overhead Just guessing, but perhaps NH. Then if that price is considerably lower take that price to your favorite dealer and ask them to match it. I did this on a 3 year old used car. My local dealer had the same car. but said I don't need to match that. It is 300 miles away and I am here. I pointed out that the car had wheels so it was quite portable and I would enjoy the trip. He met the price.

 

[MikeM.]

X-Plan formula is something like Invoice - (0.004 * Invoice). So, not huge savings ($40 for every $10,000 on invoice) but I suppose it saves time.

No, it was big savings and thousands under MSRP. I didn't know X-plan was below invoice (didn't do a ton of research other than to know X-plan is pretty much the lowest one can expect). Anything below invoice is generally considered decent.

 

[Monterra]

Sounds like you really got one over em Mike you shady cat.

OP: Mike Weiss @Poughkeepsie Mazda (not close but also not crazy far from where you're looking) was very straight up and nice- lower the Wayne I believe and that was before their 400 doc fee. That was awhile ago on my '14 but I had a good/easy peasy experience and service has also been very upfront and fair. Got like 2k off from him via instant online quote- I deposited the car that day. Regardless of where else you go..wait till last week of month and once you're ready (really ready) be assertive- know exactly what you want, what you don't, what the market is, be ready to move fast and good deals will come. If the best deal(s) come from places your not so keen on bring them to the place(s) that you are and if its a real number, they'll match it in most cases.

 

[CX5_Pete]

True car gives you a general idea if you are getting ripped off or not. How dealer really gets you are the add ons like service packages, extended warranties, special exterior and interior paint treatment blah blah. Haggle the base price of the vehicle first. Then slowly haggle or try to get rid of the next items. After all that then you can haggle the price of the trade in. It's one huge poker game. Don't show all your cards and play dumb. Most important of all do NOT be afraid to walk out. If after all the haggling and they let you walk out, your offer was too high for that particular dealership. Remember your offer and try it at another dealer. You never know, one might just take it if they need to move inventory. Of course, this can all be avoided with TrueCar's gurranteed pricing or costcos auto program. Just understand that you will pay a small premium for convenience.

 

[Ricsta]

Excellent point. But I'm not even trying to get a "great deal," I'm doing all this to get a sense of the "market price." I went to Wayne to buy the car on Saturday and they showed me an invoice for 37K and asked me how much I wanted to pay, basically forcing me to haggle. Then they refused to explain what the fees were for, even said that the "ETCH" fee was included in "every new car." It sounded fishy, so I had to give-up, come home, and do some research. That's how I fell into this rabbit hole.

I'm in NY and had also gotten a quote from Wayne Mazda that included $300 etch fee. That was a red flag. At the time the 2016 were just arriving on lots and they were the only one within 50 miles with the model & color I wanted. In the end I went to the dealer two miles from my house and he got me the car from Wayne Mazda via dealer swap at invoice + $500, no haggling.

 

[Monterra]

Yeah I would never accept the baked in etching fee personally or other add ons unless they were things I wanted..and I forgot but will repeat Pete- not only should you not be afraid to walk out, you should always be ready to do so. Its not really about making friends its a business deal so friend-ly is good but try to keep emotions- particularly excitement on the shelf and focus on the task at hand- getting what you want at the best reasonable price at a place you feel (at least) comfortable with.

 

[Z06Trev]

Wayne (NJ) 31,575 (sale), 34,897 (OTD)
Palisades (NY) 32,145 (sale), 35,374 (OTD)
All American (NJ) 31,397 (sale), 34,626 (OTD)
Irwin (NJ) 32,389 (sale), 35,349 (OTD)
Hamilton (NJ) 31,995 (sale), 35,011 (OTD)

Are you sure you are comparing identically equipped vehicles? Almost all of these GT models with the tech and i-active package come with some assortment of additional cost options (roof rack, all weather mats, wheel locks, rear bumper guard etc.) There are also additional charges for the white and red colors.

I bought mine from All American Mazda in Brick, NJ. Very nice people, I would highly recommend them. They did try the $299 etch scam, but I told them no and they immediately removed the cost. It is actually pre-printed on their sales invoice. I also recently bought a Dodge Durango from a different dealer with the exact same item pre-printed. They also removed it without question. This is a game that many dealers play to get some extra profit from inexperienced buyers.

It is hard to say how good your quoted prices are since you didn't list the MSRP with any included options. I paid about $650 under invoice or about $1900 under MSRP using the Costco plan with no incentives included.

 

[Mariana]

It is hard to say how good your quoted prices are since you didn't list the MSRP with any included options. I paid about $650 under invoice or about $1900 under MSRP using the Costco plan with no incentives included.

I put the MSRP and listed the accessories each car had in this spreadsheet with all the fees itemized.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1U5kLHE-XK50q_szKAhgc9GhYLele-6osJnaKiHs4oIE/edit#gid=0

 

[bmninada]

Mariana - congratulations. Remember, I bought almost end of year 2015, in Dec. Yours and mine Wayne pre tax price difference is 600$. Which is perfectly okay due to the 1st. reason I indicated - end of year. Wheel locks are standard in all Wane vehicles. I got for free Mazda key-chains, all weather floor mat, cargo mat, mud guards. I found them underneath the truck mat. Not sure if it was accidental.

 

[Cobra jet]

I bought mine from All American Mazda in Brick, NJ. Very nice people, I would highly recommend them. They did try the $299 etch scam, but I told them no and they immediately removed the cost. It is actually pre-printed on their sales invoice. I also recently bought a Dodge Durango from a different dealer with the exact same item pre-printed. They also removed it without question. This is a game that many dealers play to get some extra profit from inexperienced buyers.

I'll second the sentiment about All American Mazda in Brick - we just bought our 2016.5 over the weekend from there and all of the people there were awesome to deal with from the Sales guy to the Sales Manager to the folks who detailed the car.

They were a no-nonsense dealer, there was no pressure to shop, discuss their vehicles or even connect to make a deal. They gave us space to discuss and time to shop their lot, make decisions on what we wanted, etc.

I would also definitely recommend them as a Mazda Dealer for others in NJ. They also have a very large inventory.