wassup guys, after i got my custom box made for my w7, the guy told me i should break in my sub at mild volume for about 60 hours before i start to really knock it. do you guys agree? how long do you guys think i should break my sub in for? thanks guys later
breaking in your sub
- Thread starter Mz3_4u2nv
- Start date
mobomelter
Member
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- 2004 Civic Si
i don't know about anybody else but breaking in a sub doesn't sound like something that needs to be done. but better safe than sorry. i'd go with what the guy said i mean if it turns up to be a waste of time as i already said better safe than sorry. (sorry for the cliche)
EDIT: Didn't notice the warranty part. I am an idiot.
EDIT: Didn't notice the warranty part. I am an idiot.
Last edited:
djltoronto
Member
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- Mazda 3 Sport
If the subs needed to be "broken in", then the manufacturer would be sure to make a BOLD NOTE of it. If there was a specific procedure for breaking in the speaker, and warranty was, break-in dependant, then you would most certainly see lots of warnings and the like listed on the owners manual.
There are no such warnings on any JL subwoofers.
It is possible that odler speakers "hit harder" as someone said, but this was not bacause they were "broke in" properly, it was casue they were old. Theoretically, if the spider on the speaker was less restrictive (older), it's possible to get a little more travel out of them based on the same wattage input.
There are no such warnings on any JL subwoofers.
It is possible that odler speakers "hit harder" as someone said, but this was not bacause they were "broke in" properly, it was casue they were old. Theoretically, if the spider on the speaker was less restrictive (older), it's possible to get a little more travel out of them based on the same wattage input.
mazda3zoom
Member
- :
- Sweetest Car Ever
Ive never done that with any of my subs and the 12''s i have right now ive had for at least 2-3 years. and if your subs under warrenty then who cares.....get a new one.lol
well this isnt the case with me... i bought mine from a friend who can buy them wholesale, and for some reason this place doesnt have warrenties. i guess its because the venders who ended up buying from them are the ones who are responcible for the warrenties. but then again im not 100% sure if they dont do warrenties. i just dont want to go through all that trouble as well.
heres another question: should i just dynamat the trunk and is it hard to do so? or should i just go ahead and dynamat the whole damn car?
heres another question: should i just dynamat the trunk and is it hard to do so? or should i just go ahead and dynamat the whole damn car?
a bit off topic, but where did you put your sub box? is it taking up a lot of trunk space? i am getting ready (a month or two) to do my stereo install and am really tryin to see if i can save all my trunk space and put it where the jack is, and put the jack in that stupid storage stash area in a lil compartment so it doesn't slide around..? i know fiberglass but i also know the w7 has a lot of throw to it as well so just curious
i just got my 2 10 mtx installed w/ a custom box in my 5 door and it hits hard as hell its nothin fancy but its bumps but it does take up my whole trunk but the guy made it where all u have to do is put the seats down and slide the box back so u can get to the spare. it works great.
well for a ported 12w7 box it doesnt take up that much space. the box was custom made and i had them make it in a trapezoid shape to get the most room out of my trunk. i would have to say that the bottom of the box comes out just a little pass the line where you can lift up the bottom part of the trunk. i think that explains it. although because our trunks arent big enough they couldnt put 2 ports on either side so they just made one port and the other being a dumby port, just for looks. hoped this helped you out in your ideas.
again: is it hard to dynamat the trunk? is it necessary to do the entire car?
again: is it hard to dynamat the trunk? is it necessary to do the entire car?
mobomelter
Member
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- 2004 Civic Si
if i'm not mistaken isn't dynamat basically just a giant sticker? it shouldn't be too hard to stick it on to your trunk. but you might want to consult someone who cares about looks before doing it.
mazda3zoom
Member
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- Sweetest Car Ever
Installing the dynomat isnt the hard part. its gettin all the interior panels off (not really hard, just time consuming). ide say that if u have the $$ to do the whole car go for it. it cant hurt anything. if not then do the trunk at least. i never thought it would make that much of a difference but once i put mine in, not only did it get rid of the raddles, it made the base sound 10 times better. the carpet in the trunk isnt that hard to get out so that shouldnt take more then an hour or 2.
the subs dont "need" to be broken in, but it's suggested. It's like a pair of tight shoes.. you know they're gonna be comfortable.. so you wear them for a week and then they're sweet after that, instead of putting them on the day you get them and running a mile.
ps. why would u get a w7 and then put it in a ported box?
ps. why would u get a w7 and then put it in a ported box?
BeNegative
Member
there's something in the warranty about breaking in period. but most places will tell u that w/ daily use it'll b broken in eventually. i really didn't notice any diff tho after the break-in period. i found old skewl subs sound way better.
mobomelter
Member
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- 2004 Civic Si
to whoever is doing the dynamat (i got lost on who said what and i'm too lazy to reread) i would suggest buying that kit made for license plates or fabbing some mat for the plate yourself. I don't know about the rest of the 3 owners but the back plate is really loose even with the screws in tight.
BeNegative
Member
mobomelter said:
agreed. got dynomat in back of my plate. no rattles at all w/o that...rattlemania
Badger Biker
Member
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- 2001 Jeep Cherokee Limited
When in doubt: Email the manufacturer.
Some subs are made to be thrashed as soon as they are connected for the first time (ID MAX - as per Image Dynamics instructions) and some other people think that low volumes with the occasional thump for the first few hours is the best way to go about doing things.
My sub sounded a LOT better after a few hours of playtime, and now it hits really well and very crisp for a 10". My techno and rock has never sounded so good
Some subs are made to be thrashed as soon as they are connected for the first time (ID MAX - as per Image Dynamics instructions) and some other people think that low volumes with the occasional thump for the first few hours is the best way to go about doing things.
My sub sounded a LOT better after a few hours of playtime, and now it hits really well and very crisp for a 10". My techno and rock has never sounded so good
