Blew My welded diff...

[CrazyCaker]

It doesn't come with the ring gear, but you can use the ring gear from any G series tranny, they are the same regardless if the diff is an lsd or open type.

 

[SeR_Cyclops]

How do you get the ring gear off?

 

[SeR_Cyclops]

yeah I looked it up and I see you just drill the rivets.

 

[Jspeed17]

NICE! so i could still use my Revision2 diff that is welded!!!!! F'n A that'll save me quite a pretty penny.....just need a good hardware kit i suppose?

 

[JamesCH]

I wasn't surprised by the chunks missing out of the housing seeing as it's cheap cast s***, but seeing chunks out of the ring gear were the welds were blew my mind.

Welding changes the metal's micro structure and it is possible to severely degrade the metals strength in the heat affected zone around the weld, especially without heat-treating. The HAZ is where most welds fail.

It would be interesting to know which side failed first though...

 

[CrazyCaker]

Welding changes the metal's micro structure and it is possible to severely degrade the metals strength in the heat affected zone around the weld, especially without heat-treating. The HAZ is where most welds fail.

It would be interesting to know which side failed first though...

Yeah I was hoping it would have held up, just like most others who have welded it are hoping.

My guess would be the cast side, as not all the welds seperated on the ring gear side.

 

[Jspeed17]

To me it seemed that the pinion gear was the weak point in my trans explosion...

I'm in the process of drilling the ring gear rivets off and gonna grind my welds....

Here are some pics....

<a href="http://s486.photobucket.com/albums/rr222/jspeed17/?action=view&current=utf-8BSU1HMDAwMDgtMjAwOTEwMzEtMTUxO.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i486.photobucket.com/albums/rr222/jspeed17/utf-8BSU1HMDAwMDgtMjAwOTEwMzEtMTUxO.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s486.photobucket.com/albums/rr222/jspeed17/?action=view&current=utf-8BSU1HMDAwMTAtMjAwOTEwMzEtMTUyM.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i486.photobucket.com/albums/rr222/jspeed17/utf-8BSU1HMDAwMTAtMjAwOTEwMzEtMTUyM.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s486.photobucket.com/albums/rr222/jspeed17/?action=view&current=utf-8BSU1HMDAwMDktMjAwOTEwMzEtMTUxO.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i486.photobucket.com/albums/rr222/jspeed17/utf-8BSU1HMDAwMDktMjAwOTEwMzEtMTUxO.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s486.photobucket.com/albums/rr222/jspeed17/?action=view&current=utf-8BSU1HMDAwMTEtMjAwOTExMDItMTYxO.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i486.photobucket.com/albums/rr222/jspeed17/utf-8BSU1HMDAwMTEtMjAwOTExMDItMTYxO.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

 

[Jspeed17]

After drilling thru i just took a flat chisel to the rivet heads, popped them off, and then took a round punch and hammer to the rivets down and out of the gear.

The welds are gonna be a b****!!! lol

 

[dandan2]

why are u even gonna mess with the welds? that makes no sense! leave them alone!

 

[Jspeed17]

lol...have u read this thread at all???

 

[dandan2]

woops! yah. just woke up! dont hate. lol

 

[GiJoe]

Wow. uh how much power are you outting down? do you know?

 

[JamesCH]

If it's possible you should gouge out all the welded material and then go a bit deeper so that the new welds (I assume you're going to re-weld) can penetrate deeper than the first ones.

 

[Jspeed17]

Not sure if i'm gonna re-weld....with ARP bolts do i have to?

 

[Jspeed17]

Wow. uh how much power are you outting down? do you know?

Not really sure....if i had to guess maybe 240-250whp range? Beat a MS3 from a dig hands down before i did this damage at the track....lol

 

[JamesCH]

Not sure if i'm gonna re-weld....with ARP bolts do i have to?

Unless you replace everything that was welded the parts will still be weakened by the HAZ from the first welding so it wouldn't change the material more than it already was. Also, unless you machine the welds off instead of grinding them you could unintentionally add some stress-risers where other cracks could start. A little nick from a grinder that has a "V" like profile is a great place for a crack to start.

If you're re-using any parts that were welded or will be hand-ground I'd recommend re-welding because of my experience in mechanical/automotive engineering and welding. I'm no MSP expert though.

 

[TiPapoute]

Holy sh**, you really ***** the crap out of that LSD! First time I've seen one break that way.

 

[Jspeed17]

Unless you replace everything that was welded the parts will still be weakened by the HAZ from the first welding so it wouldn't change the material more than it already was. Also, unless you machine the welds off instead of grinding them you could unintentionally add some stress-risers where other cracks could start. A little nick from a grinder that has a "V" like profile is a great place for a crack to start.

If you're re-using any parts that were welded or will be hand-ground I'd recommend re-welding because of my experience in mechanical/automotive engineering and welding. I'm no MSP expert though.

Good point....a buddy of mine does run a machine shop, i could have him look at that...i am just re-using the diff though---the gear will be out of a used tranny with 40k on it

 

[JamesCH]

Good point....a buddy of mine does run a machine shop, i could have him look at that...i am just re-using the diff though---the gear will be out of a used tranny with 40k on it

Your machine shop buddy might want to grind the welds off with a surface grinder if possible, rather than use a mill or a lathe on the off-chance that there's any tungsten inclusions in the weld material. It gets really messy really quickly if a machine tool catches hold of a chunk of tungsten in a part. Though it's unlikely there are any inclusions, but it's still possible.