1. SRI/TIP (just get both at the same time, look for a 3" one ALL the way down and with a 3" MAF housing. SURE makes one.)
2. RMM, shifter bushings, short shift plate, counterweight (helps with torque steer, shifting and putting the power that you do have down)
3. Cobb AP
4. Autotech fuel pump internals, step colder spark plugs
5. Catless Test/Race pipe (lower downpipe) OR replace the entire downpipe with a long downpipe. TP is about $150 whereas a full DP is going to run you $700 for a nice one. but plenty of people run the ebay one ($250?) and haven't had issues. you'll want to research info on DPs if you decide to go long DP.
6. TUNE TUNE TUNE. Need to go to Stage 2 tune to take advantage of the new mods at this point. OTS maps are decent, but i would get an e-tune.
7. oil catch can, coolant bypass kit, TIG, and (optional) EGR block off kit (these will help drop your BATs which means moar powah! and it will keep oil out of your manifold.)
8. Upgraded TMIC or FMIC
9. BPV (do NOT go BOV, aka VTA, unless you tune for it)
10. Upper downpipe. Basically, you replaced the lower DP at #5, so this is finishing it off. Catted or catless depending on local smog laws. (obviously you can skip this if you replace the entire DP back at #5)
11. Cat back exhaust
12. PMM & TMM (passenger and transmission motor mounts)
13. Intake and Turbo/Exhaust manifolds
at that point you are basically fully bolted. you'll be putting down near 300whp on 93 gas and somewhere in the range of 340wtq. add in 3 gallons of e85 and it'll be even higher (but you have to have a tune for that too). you could also get a meth kit