Best Way To Build MS3 Engine?

iSeth

Member
:
Mazda Speed 3
Current Mods are in my signature, and getting a Cobb AP soon. Then a DP and RP. What is the "safest" and best way to build my engine to get around 350-400 whp. I see a lot of people with Pauter Rods 9.5:1 and Forged Pistons etc. Would it be safe to keep the stock block with that much power? I would like to get a better head also but can't seem to find any. I'm a total noob at this, so i can use all the help I can get.
 
1. SRI/TIP (just get both at the same time, look for a 3" one ALL the way down and with a 3" MAF housing. SURE makes one.)
2. RMM, shifter bushings, short shift plate, counterweight (helps with torque steer, shifting and putting the power that you do have down)
3. Cobb AP
4. Autotech fuel pump internals, step colder spark plugs
5. Catless Test/Race pipe (lower downpipe) OR replace the entire downpipe with a long downpipe. TP is about $150 whereas a full DP is going to run you $700 for a nice one. but plenty of people run the ebay one ($250?) and haven't had issues. you'll want to research info on DPs if you decide to go long DP.
6. TUNE TUNE TUNE. Need to go to Stage 2 tune to take advantage of the new mods at this point. OTS maps are decent, but i would get an e-tune.
7. oil catch can, coolant bypass kit, TIG, and (optional) EGR block off kit (these will help drop your BATs which means moar powah! and it will keep oil out of your manifold.)
8. Upgraded TMIC or FMIC
9. BPV (do NOT go BOV, aka VTA, unless you tune for it)
10. Upper downpipe. Basically, you replaced the lower DP at #5, so this is finishing it off. Catted or catless depending on local smog laws. (obviously you can skip this if you replace the entire DP back at #5)
11. Cat back exhaust
12. PMM & TMM (passenger and transmission motor mounts)
13. Intake and Turbo/Exhaust manifolds

at that point you are basically fully bolted. you'll be putting down near 300whp on 93 gas and somewhere in the range of 340wtq. add in 3 gallons of e85 and it'll be even higher (but you have to have a tune for that too). you could also get a meth kit
 
Start searching for tuning shops in your area and then further if need. 350 + horsepower is a built motor as you pointed out and the parts you call out are good stuff.
But the trick is to find the right guy(s) to assemble the critical parts. There is 24/7 chapter in Ohio if i recall correct. Pretty helpful. Maybe a search here can help find them?
But i cant stress the importance of the build is who builds it. A real engine builder will tell you the best parts for your HP goals.
You all ready know that you are going to have to spend good bit of change. Considered some bolt ons and a good tune on the stock turbo?
The gentleman is right. You will have to have a tuning device and a tuner worth his salt. Tune tune tune. The car talks to those who can listen.lol
 
You can make 350whp just fine on stock motor. We have had 3 cars here that have all gotten this easily. A little e85 mix with 91/93 (whatever is in your area) or methanol injection will allow for more and safer power. The key is the tune. As long as it is tuned correctly, you can have 350whp+ on stock motor all day long. We have gotten to 400whp with all 3 of the MS3's that have been employee owned here. Let us know if you have any other questions.
 
I'm at 400hp/400+tq on a stock block with a gtx3076r ewg setup. I've been running this setup for over 30,000 miles and daily drive the vehicle. I use every bit of the 400 eveyday. I'm not easy on my car one bit, but i built this to drive it. And i do! Like everyone has said... It's all in the tuning. I'm building the motor over the winter and Edge is about to recieve a lot of my money lol. 400 was fun, but of course i want more now. Good luck
 
On a side note. I'm building it cause i want more power. The motor still runs great and does not smoke. The guys over at Edge know what they are talking about.
 

New Threads

Back