Battery Change Is Killing Me

Car struggled to turn over this morning, started twice and then dead. Jumped it and took to store to get a new battery (haven't changed it since I got the car in 2022). Battery connected and car wouldn't start. Guy at store recommended jumping it, which started it and now I am getting error codes up the wazoo - Thought they cleared out and the car started on its own, but now back to square 1.

Got about 6-8 codes;

1) smart braking system
2) engine
3) sensor system
4) EPB


When the car DOES start, the check engine light is on and the only noticeable issue is it is slow on the uptick when I accelerate. Once it's driving, it seems normal.

I tried the parking brake and that did make an unusual screech, but I was able to release it.

Is there anyway to fuddle my way out of this, or is it straight to the mechanic?

Thanks,
Stephanie
 
What kind of car do you have? Do you get any CEL ( Check Engine Light)? Regardless, connect a scanner on the car, see if you get anything, any codes. How old is the car, do you have any maintenance history on it? I would start from the spark plugs. Do a visual inspection on them, maybe you need a new set. Check the start push button, maybe you need a new one. Start from here if you don't have any other ideas so far.
 
If the CX is a '22 I seriously doubt that it needs new plugs and I'm somewhat surprised that it needed a new battery. I'm still on the OEM from 2016 and still starting the car just fine.

Some, or perhaps all, of those error codes will clear once the car gets started and moving.
 
If the CX is a '22 I seriously doubt that it needs new plugs and I'm somewhat surprised that it needed a new battery.
I would, too, but he said he got the car in 2022, not that the car is a 2022 model. Maybe I misunderstood.
 
I would, too, but he said he got the car in 2022, not that the car is a 2022 model. Maybe I misunderstood.

Nope, you're right. The OP said that the car was acquired in 22, I'm assuming that it's a 2022 but of course, I could be wrong. That's the only number that I have to go by, so...

Probably not a 22 though, since the OP didn't mention warranty.
 
Is there a possibility that disconnecting the battery again to clear the codes would help?
 
My first step would be to put the new battery on a good multi stage charger and charge it fully. Its common for new batteries to not be anywhere near fully charged, and these modern cars do not like low voltage.

Then test again.

Even if this doesnt solve the problems, at least you have eliminated one issue.
 
OP has not responded to his own thread for 1 month.

Where are you seeing that? OP started this thread on Dec 26th. It's coming up on 2 weeks old.

@sad2390, where did you buy the battery, and who did the installation? If it was an auto parts store like a Napa, they should be able to do a load test on the battery to determine the condition. If it's a bad new battery, they should replace it with another new battery.

Auto shops like that should also be able to check and clear OBD codes like the ones you have, or they sell the equipment that lets you do that. Clear the codes and see if they come back.

How short were your drives after you jumped the battery? The car usually needs to run for a while in order for the alternator to recharge the battery properly. If this isn't possible, you can put the battery on a trickle charger or battery maintainer to recharge the battery over the course of a few hours.
 

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