Hey Guys, I need to replace the front and rear motor mounts on my p5 and was wondering if anyone had any experience with AWR's 70 durometer mounts. I really don't want much more vibration than I get from the stock mounts but wouldn't mind something a little stiffer. Also, I am concerned that if I replace the front and rear with urethane mounts. The driver/passenger side will rip faster. Any thoughts? Thanks
AWR durometer 70 mounts
- Thread starter oldskool3
- Start date
CheeseHelmet
Member
Don't do it. Get OEM-style mounts, since they're new they'll be stiffer than what you have now. The AWR rear mount will drive you insane.
G
Guest20182
I have the AWR 70-duro dogbone (rear) on my 6, and you can BARELY feel it, even with the AC/defrost on at a stoplight it's very minimal.
CheeseHelmet
Member
6 != P5
Trust me, you don't want the rear AWR mount on a daily driver. There are a bunch of people here who will back me up.
CheeseHelmet
Member
I bought the 70 duro set, I doubt it's really all that much better. I really wish someone would have warned me about how bad it was before I went through all the trouble of installing that rear mount.
That's what I was wondering. I saw a lot of testiments about the 90 duro's being super stiff and annoying but was wondering if the 70's were much softer (AWR makes them sound pretty soft on their site description). Thanks for the responses guys now i can just get them locally!!
Spiced MSP
Member
- :
- 2016 Peterbilt 579
I have AWR 88 duro. all around and I will say the vibes were crazy especially with the rear mount until they finally broke in. Now, I sometimes forget they are there.
whiteMPRO5
Member
- :
- MSP swapped P5
agreeed ^^^
i went with 70 in the front and 88s on the sides (left the rear one stock). yea at first the vibrations drive you nuts. you find one vibration, put some double sided foam tape on it, then you end up chasing another. its a never ending process but i must say im very pleased with the feel of the car. no more engine lash between shifts and what not. when idling at stoplights you hear everything but once you get the car past 2k rpms everything quiets down. best way to fight it is to just crank up the tuness!
i went with 70 in the front and 88s on the sides (left the rear one stock). yea at first the vibrations drive you nuts. you find one vibration, put some double sided foam tape on it, then you end up chasing another. its a never ending process but i must say im very pleased with the feel of the car. no more engine lash between shifts and what not. when idling at stoplights you hear everything but once you get the car past 2k rpms everything quiets down. best way to fight it is to just crank up the tuness!
CheeseHelmet
Member
I have the 95durometer ones and I must say that the vibrations are not that bad after they break in. (jerkit) Sure it vibrates but what would you expect. (attn) The only time that I is really bothersome is when the A/C compressor is on at a light. But when that happens I just jive it a little gas to rev it up to about 1300 or 1400 rpms and the resonance vibrations are gone. As far as performance goes, it messes with your knock sensor, sending out false positives for knock. When I accelerate slowly I can notice the alteration in timing. Stick with the OEM mounts for comfort, there isn't much tensile strength difference 95 duro has about a 7,000 psi tensile strength and 70 durometer has about a 6,000 psi tensile strength. Good luck.
Protephile
Propulsionally Challenged
- :
- 2022 CX-30
I have 70s all around and yes, the car vibrates more at idle, but it's really not that bad.
- :
- -- 03 P5 / 23 CX-5 --
I say do inserts. RR Racing in the front and AWR inserts on sides & stock rear. Hardly noticeable and nothing being shook apart.
