APEXI S-AFC Will Work or Wont???

Will the Apexi S-afc work?

  • Yes

    Votes: 3 17.6%
  • Dont have a clue what it is

    Votes: 4 23.5%
  • No

    Votes: 10 58.8%

  • Total voters
    17

mazdaspeed45

Member
:
2002 PROTEGE ES 2.0GT
According to some members on this fourm and others the s-afc WILL NOT WORK due to our maf sensor being 5-10v rather than 0-5v which the afc works with. From my reading and understanding the maf sensor is voided after a certian rpm and the map in the ECU takes over, which makes our cars run extreamly rich, (which is not a bad thing) thats great for turbo and nitrous setups, when your up in the high Rpm, but what about the lower rpms, you dont want you car running too rich (wash the oil off your cyl walls) or too lean (boom), you want it right in the middle, thats were the s-afc will help. I have been trying to get mine working for months now, and im not gonna listen to this bulls*** that it wont work.! I have thought of another way of making this work for our cars. I will do some more calculations and test out what we have come up with. I will keep you everyone posted! if this does infact work (which im very confident about) I will build and sell these for our cars. I should have this completed by tommorow night at the latest.

And if it donst work then im gonna look like a big ass. but im not giving up!!
 
I don't think this is the kind of ? you want to make a poll for. I would want a definate answer before I bought something like that.
 
im very positive that this will work, according to specs and members that have tried it, encouners with the maf sensor


tell me this (if you have hooked up the s-afc) when its hooked up correctly the voltage on the afc reads max 5v. now when you try to start the car it runs for a second and quits, at this time the voltage stioll stay the same...

when the car is connected normal, the voltage stays at 5v then when the car is started the voltage flucates (spl?).


????????????????????????????????????????????????

that would mean that the afc is at its max voltage, 0 being min and 5 being max... its maxed out screwing the voltage reading to the computer.. if you take and run a constant 5v to the computer it will stall out just the same way when hooked up to the afc..
 
Last edited:
i have the s-afc hooked up right now but not to the maf sensor. everything else works fine all the readings and such. when i tried to hook the wire up to the maf sensor the car would just die out. the reading on the s-afc would read somewhere around 5 volts and when i tried changing the sensor types the voltage wouldnt change. also with the s-afc hooked up the voltage at the maf would read 8 volt way too high.
 
The main problem is that the voltage is indeed 0 - 5 volts, yes, but it uses a strange range:

1.6 volts key on
1.8- 2.0 volts idle
2.5 volts no load at 2500rpms

If it doesn't see these particulars, the car dies. The actual usable voltage when running is 1.8 - 5v depending on load through the MAF sensor. This was all described to me from Perfworks, and I did a little scouting to find the same results with a multimeter.
 
flat_black said:
The main problem is that the voltage is indeed 0 - 5 volts, yes, but it uses a strange range:

1.6 volts key on
1.8- 2.0 volts idle
2.5 volts no load at 2500rpms

If it doesn't see these particulars, the car dies. The actual usable voltage when running is 1.8 - 5v depending on load through the MAF sensor. This was all described to me from Perfworks, and I did a little scouting to find the same results with a multimeter.
I was just about to post till i saw this great post. Good job flat black.(2thumbs)

Guys these are facts. If the unit output to the ecu is not within the specs described above forget it.
The best tool you will ever own is a multimeter.
 
what are you selecting as the sensor type?? I have the apexi installed an working great, its a probe but I have a FS engine an MAF same stuff, you have to install the apexi a certain way on our cars so it may work on yours, you have to use both wires from the apexi the white an yellow, you put them both on the MAF wire, an in between the two you cut the MAF wire, if anyone needs help you can IM Me on email
 
The programming is different between the Probe and the Protege.

The Protege ECU has some strange gustapo hold on everything and it's a pain in the ass to make it do what you want it to do. That is why everyone has had problems making the S-AFC and like styled piggy backs work right.

The Link, Microtech and a few other type piggy's have worked.

Keep trying though, you might get it to work somehow...
 
Been there, done that, couldn't get the car to not die out, then I gave up. I've heard the S-AFC II is different but I don't have one, not sure. If you can get it to work and make wonder on benefiting the Speed I congratulate you, but even if you can't, it's still an experience worth trying since you've already gone this far.
 
CMCprobe- thats what i have done. i cut the maf wire and hooked up the yellow wire on the ecu side and white wire on wiring harrness side.
what sensor type are you using?
i tryed to move the sensor type values but there was no change in voltage. if yours is hooked up differently then i have explained or if you have any other ideas please let me (us) know!
 
S-AFC will not work on a MSP for sure. Have no idea about the S-AFC II. Does anyone know if the S-AFC will work on a regular protege?
 
Hey guys can you give me more details of how it is that this works.
I am an electronic tech and i may be of help for all of us since i want to install one in my car. For what i can read i think the problem is that the voltage patters are different in the Apexi Unit but that can be fix by reducing the voltage. In another words regulate the voltage by dividing it in half so when it shoots for 5v it will actually be 0 and when it hits 10 it would be 5 v. and in the same proporsion for the rest of the volt scale.

this can be achieve with a simple regulator circuit.
So help me help you like Maguirre would say :P..

Anyway i hope we can figure this out

Green!!
 
perfworks said:
countless threads and still noone will believe what we have said from day one.
IT WILL NOT WORK

HAHA...People are stubborn Perf.:rolleyes:
 
so green your suggesting a step down transformer? or a set up that will do similar?
 
OK how many times have I said this IT DOESN'T FREAKIN WORK GIVE IT UP AND GET A REAL PIGGYBACK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
chdesign said:
OK how many times have I said this IT DOESN'T FREAKIN WORK GIVE IT UP AND GET A REAL PIGGYBACK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


What are you trying to say??:confused:





J/K:p
 
ahb11m and Green: A step down transformer, or anything to reduce voltage won't work. The car doesn't in fact run from 5 - 10v, as I previously thought, too. I have already run over the idea of stepping down then back up, but the car is actually using a 0 - 5v MAF, as previously noted, but it has odd values for idle/no load/key on, so it doesn't function as a normal 0 - 5v MAF would. To make it actually function to any degree, you would have to convert the signal from 0 - 5v to something along the lines of 1.6 - 5v instead, and even then, given the conditions the MAF needs to put out under load/no load condition at speed, it may still not work. I'm just gonna go with a piggy from Modern Performance or Perfworks or somethin'. We'll see!

- Eddie
 

New Threads and Articles

Back