AP and Split Second Map clamp?

[Hot Shot]

I currently have a SS map clamp installed and running fine. Currently the car spikes to around 20 PSI, then falls to around 18-19 PSI on the boost gauge. The DH log reads about 4.5 volts on the MAF and 15 PSI.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y156/itrhybrid/DHLogafterCDFP.jpg

I have an AP sitting at home that I'm getting ready to install. I'd planned on taking the SS Map clamp off before installing the AP, then tuning with ATR when it's released next week. Is removing the Map Clamp necessary? What would happen if I didn't?

Thanks,
James

 

[AMS38U]

i have the ap and im no TUNNER but id deff say it would mess it up due to the fact of the ap works off of how the car is running if your still tricking the ecu then its only gonna run as TRICKED... if you tune it with the atr lets say it gets cold out, it would adjust to that cold, or hot

 

[COBB Tuning]

I have an inquiry into the tuners and engineers at COBB about this issue, my gut feeling is that a MAP clamp, even on a stock car would be less than optimal as it seems like it would under-report boost. I will keep you posted as I learn more.

Travis
COBB Tuning

Edit:

It is COBB's position that no sensor should be hidden from the ECU. The MAP clamp is essentially reporting, as it is on your car, that all the boost you are hitting is 15lbs of boost, therefore we effectively have no idea what kind of boost you making unless of course you have a standalone boost guage. It is our experience on the MS3 that you should not be hitting boost cut with the stock turbo unless you are boost creeping, which is less than ideal. While you will not run out of fuel for a given boost level, the MS3 Turbo is so small that at higher boost pressures turbo outlet temps will be extremely high causing very unstable tuning conditions. In other words, you will be very knock prone because intake temps are out of control.

Remove the MAP clamp and install your AP, you will make more power, safely than with the clamp installed. Installing the clamp effectively removes one of the ECU's failsafe features and invites engine destruction.

 

[Hot Shot]

Thanks. Already have the clamp off and am installing the AP software on my PC now.

 

[Mid_Life_Crisis]

I have an inquiry into the tuners and engineers at COBB about this issue, my gut feeling is that a MAP clamp, even on a stock car would be less than optimal as it seems like it would under-report boost. I will keep you posted as I learn more.

It should be painfully obvious that if you install something that completely changes the cpu`s parameters, you should remove other devices that might conflict with it.

MAP clamps serve two purposes. The one most people here use them for is to stop the ecu from actuating the wastegate to bleed excess boost, thereby allowing higher boost pressures to be achieved. The other reason, and the one my reading indicates they were originally developed for, because let`s face it, you don`t need adjustability if all you want is to stop wastegate actuation, is to give you a certain amount of ability to tweak A/F ratios. Turbo cars from the factory tend to run rich to protect the engine. Generally speaking, the higher the boost, the richer the mix. When you fake out the CPU with a MAP clamp, it uses the A/F targets for a lower boost level, which would be leaner. With careful logging of your A/F ratios, a MAP clamp can be adjusted to fool the CPU into giving an A/F ratio closer to what you want than what the factory designed.