Anyone that has replaced their wheel bearing please read

talon4x4

Member
I have a sort of whirring noise coming from the car, I suspect it is one of the wheel bearings. I'm just wondering if there are any other parts that need to be replaced or can I just do the wheel bearings? Are there any special tools required, if so, are they necessary? Any helpful hints or tips would also be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Sean
 
Are you just experiencing noise or anything else? Sloppy steering response? Other drivability issues? It could be a lot of things really..
 
talon4x4 said:
I have a sort of whirring noise coming from the car, I suspect it is one of the wheel bearings. I'm just wondering if there are any other parts that need to be replaced or can I just do the wheel bearings? Are there any special tools required, if so, are they necessary? Any helpful hints or tips would also be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Sean

Sean - I recently had to replace both rear wheel bearings on my car. I got the car used with about 22k miles on it, it has 17" rotas which came with it. Noticed some serious roarring/whirring coming from the right rear, then the left soon after, and it was seriously loud. I dont know anything about installation, but mazda did everything under warrenty. Im curious why it happened though, the dealership I took it to didnt say anything about the wheels. Just curious if anyone knows, should I be concerned about having these wheels on the car and/or if they can even affect the wheel bearings? anyone have any other problems w/ aftermarket wheels and bearings?

hope that helps

/s
 
Dimitrios said:
Are you just experiencing noise or anything else? Sloppy steering response? Other drivability issues? It could be a lot of things really..

It does seem to be pulling to the left (I'm not sure if its becuase I'm not used to the summer tires being back on the car, the winters were only 15"). Otherwise the steering still seems crisp. I checked the half shafts and they look straight. I checked for play in the front and there is none. I'm just guessing at the wheel bearings. I've searched the forums and people with a similar whirring noise have found it to be the wheel bearing.
 
findoe said:
Sean - I recently had to replace both rear wheel bearings on my car. I got the car used with about 22k miles on it, it has 17" rotas which came with it. Noticed some serious roarring/whirring coming from the right rear, then the left soon after, and it was seriously loud. I dont know anything about installation, but mazda did everything under warrenty. Im curious why it happened though, the dealership I took it to didnt say anything about the wheels. Just curious if anyone knows, should I be concerned about having these wheels on the car and/or if they can even affect the wheel bearings? anyone have any other problems w/ aftermarket wheels and bearings?

hope that helps

/s

I really can't imagine the aftermarket wheels causing a problem. I'm sure the rolling diameter is pretty close to stock and shouldn't cause a problem.
 
If it's a constant grinding/rubbing type noise, chances are it's the wheel bearing. You'll need to have a shop press the new bearing in. Just take the spindle/hub assembly to any tire place along with the new bearing and oil seal and have them press it in. Should only cost around $30 or so depending on the shop. You will need an alignment afterwords.
 
Marc93lx said:
If it's a constant grinding/rubbing type noise, chances are it's the wheel bearing. You'll need to have a shop press the new bearing in. Just take the spindle/hub assembly to any tire place along with the new bearing and oil seal and have them press it in. Should only cost around $30 or so depending on the shop. You will need an alignment afterwords.

Have you done the bearing on a Protege?? I finally got a chance to look at the manual and they show a lot of special tools being used. I'm wondering if they are all necessary??
 
talon4x4 said:
Have you done the bearing on a Protege?? I finally got a chance to look at the manual and they show a lot of special tools being used. I'm wondering if they are all necessary??
Yeah, I replace the bearing on mine. I did just waht I said above. I took the spindle/hub assembly to tires plus and had them press in the new bearing. You need a special tool to press in the bearing.
 
There is a bearing press you will need to press in the bearing. Do what Marc recommends,a nd take the part in. If you are not comfortable doing any of it, have a shop do it. You can blame them for any problems after...

Also, an old fashioned test I remember is to jack up the car so the wheel is off the ground. Grab it. and try to move it, in the angle of the camber (not spin the tire). See if you get any movement. It can be very slight, but that is a sign of a worn bearing.
 
i've been gettin a wirling noise too, mine on happens from time to time on first gear, but goes away if i play with the gas and gears...


could a short shifter, 18's, and lowering springs void that warranty?
 
JCell said:
i've been gettin a wirling noise too, mine on happens from time to time on first gear, but goes away if i play with the gas and gears...


could a short shifter, 18's, and lowering springs void that warranty?

I would say that it may cause problems. Aftermarket stuff can't void the warranty per se, but if the dealership can prove the aftermarket stuff caused the problem you want repaired they don't have to do it. If, for example, you had those mods done and your A/C stopped working they couldn't tell you your warranty was void and they can't fix the A/C. But, if you had suspenion problems I'm sure they could find some way to keep from doing it.
 
My gf MP5 have a similar problem...

There is a high pitch noise coming from the rear right wheel that occur mostly at high speed (100km/h) at only after 10min cruising.

Noise can stop and go depending of the road surface (curve, turning, bumb, etc) and while rolling, if I pull slightly the hand brake, the noise stop completly.

Car have only 30000km (18600mi) and I was suspecting a wheel bearing too.

But because of the hand brake thing, does it might be the brake? I know some OEM and aftermarket pads have a metal chime that make noise when it's wear almost to end... is the MP5 pads have this too?

Car is still on winter steelies but I will put back the alloys tonight and try to inspect the brakes while on.

And car is still under warranty if it's the bearing but we just don't want to have bad surprise at the dealership.
 
Well I'm just about finished doing both of the front bearings. Both bearings were definetly bad at 47k miles :(. Some things to keep in mind if your doing yours. Buy new snap rings!!! Your supposed to be able to push the spindle out, but one half of the bearing will most likely stay on the spindle and pop out the snap ring. Pretty much bending and twisting the sh!t out of it, making it useless. You may also need something larger than a 5 ton press. It worked for one side, but the other was so bad I couldn't press out the bearing. It took a 10 ton press to remove it!!!

The guy at the Mazda parts counter said your supposed to grease the bearings every 35k miles, seems kind of outrageous. I've never heard of having to grease a wheel bearing that often.
 
talon4x4 said:
Well I'm just about finished doing both of the front bearings. Both bearings were definetly bad at 47k miles :(. Some things to keep in mind if your doing yours. Buy new snap rings!!! Your supposed to be able to push the spindle out, but one half of the bearing will most likely stay on the spindle and pop out the snap ring. Pretty much bending and twisting the sh!t out of it, making it useless. You may also need something larger than a 5 ton press. It worked for one side, but the other was so bad I couldn't press out the bearing. It took a 10 ton press to remove it!!!

The guy at the Mazda parts counter said your supposed to grease the bearings every 35k miles, seems kind of outrageous. I've never heard of having to grease a wheel bearing that often.
The front wheel bearings on a p5 are sealed and can't be greased without damaging the bearing seals...........they are a non-servicable part........................first rule of thumb................never listen to a parts guy that gives mechanical advice.......................theres a reason they are sellin the parts and not installin them if you get my meaning !!! We slide hammer the hub out of the bearing first and then remove the bearing from the knuckle on the bench ..........then reverse the order to re-install except press the hub back into the bearing as opposed to banging it back on with the slide hammer..........................we have done hundreds of wheel bearings this way at the dealer and rarely do we have one that will not come apart. We do it this way because it is hard to get the whole assembly on the press without it flopping around etc etcand it is so much quicker....couple of blows and it is off................got to make that flat rate time..lol lol.
 
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I really didn't think there was a way to grease them. When I asked him how, his response "pull it apart, put some bearing grease in, and put it back together". I don't know a alot about cars, just enough to make me dangerous. So its the little details that can get me some times. If I had only known it wasn't possible to grease the bearings, I could have had a field day with the guy at the parts counter. I should go in there with my old bearing in pieces and say "he told me to regrease the bearing, now how do I get it back together" :D
 
mine needs to be replaced BAD! mine seems to be just coming from the front though. it's so loud that i don't even want people riding with me right now. it's awful. i'm ordering front bearings today, and hoping that solves it. i'm just thankful i'm friends with a mastertech. we're replacing them at his garage wich is saving me some serious coin.......i just have to bring the beer and steaks to grille. not too bad if you ask me.
 
About how much we looking at for all 4 bearings, seals, snaprings & whatever partswise??????????????
 
i smashed into a curb, and the suck but shop said i blew out the struts and ligned everything back up, but the camber was still knocked out positively. i had told them about this also. when i got the car back, i turned the strut mount, and it helped alot. im still gonna try a new control arm soon.

before the accident, i also hear rattles when i go over bumps. could this be caused by bad wheel bearings?

and what exactly is the tie rod, the bolt that bolts to the steering knuckle, or the thing at the end of the steering arm that pulls the knuckle.

i copied and pasted from another thread. whats in the bold is whats related here
 
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