Any alignment guys in here?

same concept applies ;) actually, checking the links makes me want to try doing my own...

Same here. Just not sure where I could do it at... My parents garage is def. not big enough. Maybe if everything was cleared out of it I would have room for this.
 
They're fighting me on it saying it's the best they can get it.

I asked them, what component is preventing it from being perfect and got the deer in the headlights equivalent on the phone.

Going up there now to argue with them.
 
They're fighting me on it saying it's the best they can get it.

I asked them, what component is preventing it from being perfect and got the deer in the headlights equivalent on the phone.

Going up there now to argue with them.

tell them you are not satisfied, and you want a refund.
 
They're fighting me on it saying it's the best they can get it.

I asked them, what component is preventing it from being perfect and got the deer in the headlights equivalent on the phone.

Going up there now to argue with them.

tell them you are not satisfied, and you want a refund.

Ya, +1. Refund, or fix their f'ed up alignment.

Just curious, where did you get the alignment at? I've had some words with people @ Tire Discounters in the past... Just @ one location actually. Others were ok.
 
I just got back. Had a discussion with the actual alignment tech who was much more professional and knowledgeable than the guy answering the phones. I could tell he was interested in solving my problem which goes a long way.

He said he tried all four strut positions and even tried to get the car to pull left and it wouldn't do it. Then he put it all back where it was. As he brought the camber closer together it was throwing the caster off.

He said none of the components looked bad and he didn't want to speculate on having me change things that might not fix it.

After much discussion I got to the bottom line, they don't carry camber bolts. So I convinced them to order two from NAPA.

Tomorrow he's going to try to bring the front right up 1/2 degree and the rear left down 1/2 degree.

He seemed convinced this would work. I have to pay for the bolts but not the labor.

I'm still on the original springs with 154,000 miles. If one of them was sagging would it cause this problem?
 
I just got back. Had a discussion with the actual alignment tech who was much more professional and knowledgeable than the guy answering the phones. I could tell he was interested in solving my problem which goes a long way.

He said he tried all four strut positions and even tried to get the car to pull left and it wouldn't do it. Then he put it all back where it was. As he brought the camber closer together it was throwing the caster off.

He said none of the components looked bad and he didn't want to speculate on having me change things that might not fix it.

After much discussion I got to the bottom line, they don't carry camber bolts. So I convinced them to order two from NAPA.

Tomorrow he's going to try to bring the front right up 1/2 degree and the rear left down 1/2 degree.

He seemed convinced this would work. I have to pay for the bolts but not the labor.

I'm still on the original springs with 154,000 miles. If one of them was sagging would it cause this problem?

Doubt it, but one of your struts could be out and that will throw your toe off which will cause the pull...

Other than that tho, sounds like the alignment tech & shop are doing the right things.
 
The struts were new in Dec 2008. I guess it's possible. They were new tokico HP struts. If none of them are leaking is there any other way to test the strut?

I will say this... After two days of driving, I'm noticing my front end is still clunky over bumps. I put factory style end links on it and that seemed to help, but there is still some clunking sound. I've got some new front sway bar bushings I haven't installed yet. I guess I could do that tonight.
 
It wasn't pulling before I put the new wheels/tires on but the ride was very rough and the front right tire was worn badly on both edges.

I guess I can try to rotate them. These are brand new tires. I'd hope one wasn't inherently off but who knows.
 
Anyone have the torque specs for the front end links and the front sway bar to frame brackets? Much appreciated!
 
Make sure all of your tires are inflated properly. Some of the best techs forget this simple and very important step.

I'm a little concerned with the camber being more aggressive on the left side front and rear. The camber will only increase with the weight of the driver, (unless the guy took the readings properly and had someone or himself sitting in the seat). With a more negative angle on the LH, the car would pull to the right. Toe is self equalling and therefore would not cause a pull to one side or the other. Thrust angle is good, so it's not a rear susp. problem.
 
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Any tricks to the rear passenger side sway bar bracket bolt? I got the other 3 out in a matter of minutes. This one is not budging and I'm starting to rip my swivel putting so much torque on it. It's so close to the frame rail I'm not sure what else I can do. About to put it all back together and call it a night.
 
Well drivers bushing is changed easily enough. I don't usually get emotional when working on cars but I'm reading to roll it into the street and torch it. I can't get the front passenger side bolt lined up to thread back in.
 
Giving up for the night. Mazda wins. I really hope they fired the guy that designed the sway bars on this car. I want to find him and kick him in the nuts over and over.

I couldn't even get the rear bolt in on the drivers side. I think I'm going to have to drop the whole damn k-member (and engine?). What should I do at this point?

I've changed bushings on probably 15-20 different types of sway bars in my life and never ever have I run into such a cluster-$*@!.
 
Giving up for the night. Mazda wins. I really hope they fired the guy that designed the sway bars on this car. I want to find him and kick him in the nuts over and over.

I couldn't even get the rear bolt in on the drivers side. I think I'm going to have to drop the whole damn k-member (and engine?). What should I do at this point?

I've changed bushings on probably 15-20 different types of sway bars in my life and never ever have I run into such a cluster-$*@!.

You talking about the front bar?
 

Ya, it's a b****. The manual says to just drop the subframe to begin with. I haven't tried to f with those bushings yet, but you're supposed to be able to do it without touching the subframe. I'm waiting for a nasty clunk to start up, and then I'm going with energy suspension bushings with grease-able fittings, but until it starts clunking or something; I'm not f'in with them, haha.
 
But when the manual says drop the subframe, it looks to me like EVERYTHING comes down including the engine. Am I looking at it wrong?

Taking out the driver side bolts was so easy. I don't know why I can't get the back one to line back up to go in.

I thought about taking a torch to the passenger side one but there's so little room, I know I'd hit the bushing and then I'd be in a bigger mess if I still couldn't break it free.
 
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