Another solution to A/C compressor problems at fan speeds 2 and 3

If you check the voltage of a battery but have a resistor in the circuit you will not get the battery voltage. You should get a reduced voltage reading.

-Actually test data-

*red probe on + and black probe on - of battery = 9.31v
*red probe after 1000 ohms resistor and black probe on - of battery = 4.46 v
*red probe after 10000 ohms resistor and black probe on - of battery = 0.78 v

Do not install that!!!. My description was correct, there is something wrong with your circuit. The way the IC works the output FET is either (effectively) a dead short or an open circuit. (There are actually two FETS, but they are wired in parallel in the circuit, so I will just use the singular.) When the FET is open (pin 2 floating or high, so no current through the LED) both sides of R2 should be at full battery voltage because there is no current through it, so pin 6 (and pin 4) should be at battery voltage. When the FET is shorted current flows through the resistor, and the voltage across the FET should be very close to zero (and across the resistor ~= battery voltage). That isn't what you are seeing. 0.78V is a very suspicious voltage, that's the voltage drop across a diode. Hmm, maybe you have the pins numbered down the wrong side (mirror image)? Let's see, that could happen if you put the circuit IC on the wrong side of the board, but that wouldn't match the picture and would be immediately obvious. Ah, or you are counting pins from the bottom instead of from the top. To be clear, the numbering is as viewed down on the IC, so that you can see the little tab on one end. Just like in the diagram in the data sheet here:

http://www.alliedelec.com/Images/Products/Datasheets/BM/CLARE/252-0001.PDF

A further test to verify. If the circuit is working then when the + of the battery is on the red wire, and the - of the battery is on the green wire (blower side of L/Y wire, attached to pin 2) then there should be about .75 volts between pins 1 and 2. But you saw 4.46V. Which might be possible if the FET is passing a little current, and yes, it would be if you have it backwards with (effectively R1 and R2 reversed). If the LED is in series with a 10K resistor it will pass 1mA which isn't enough to turn the LED on all the way, but is enough to turn it on a little, so the FET is somewhere between on and off. Then the FET and its series resistor will act like a voltage divider, which is what you are seeing.

In summary, it sounds like the IC is wired backwards somehow. Please examine my pictures carefully and compare it to your device. In this picture, the little white dot in the upper left corner of the IC is pin 1:

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=184016&d=1305648971

Also double check the part number on your IC, just in case Clare happens to make an IC with a similar part number but reversed pins.

If something is wired in backwards it would be better to redo the soldering on the passive components than on the IC. Wires and resistors take heat a lot better than silicon. If you don't already have and know how to use a solder sucker or braid, then one of these:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062731

will make removing resistors and wires a snap.
 
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Update:
I had the multi-meter turned to the wrong voltage setting. I bought Radio Shack $30 multi-meter and it had a 9v setting. This turned out to be the wrong settings, I needed to turn it to DC voltage.

Voltage battery = 9.18V
Voltage with your test = 9.18V
Voltage when you touch pin 2 green wire to negative terminal = 0.00V (0.005 mV)

I will need to come back for clearer instruction on what wire goes to what in the car. It might take me a few days as I have a new born baby.
 
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Update:
I had the multi-meter turned to the wrong voltage setting. I bought Radio Shack $30 multi-meter and it had a 9v setting. This turned out to be the wrong settings, I needed to turn it to DC voltage.

The 9V setting is most likely for testing 9V batteries, in which case it consists of a known resistive load and the voltage is measured across it and the result is reported in mA. edit: Correction, that setting has two known resistors in series, and it measures the voltage across one to determine the current. If it was just a single resistor then the voltage across it would be whatever was applied. Definitely NOT the right setting. You want the lowest DC voltage setting >9V. Usually either 10V or 20V.

Voltage battery = 9.18V
Voltage with your test = 9.18V
Voltage when you touch pin 2 green wire to negative terminal = 0.00V (0.005 mV)

OK, good test then.


I will need to come back for clearer instruction on what wire goes to what in the car. It might take me a few days as I have a new born baby.


Congratulations on the baby. Although this is probably impossible, try to get at least a few hours sleep before installation. Sleep deprivation and soldering irons are a bad combination.
 
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If you sell me a device that I install in my car, then you are not liable. If you installed the device then you would/could be liable. If you sell me a gun and I shot somebody then you are not liable for what I do with it.

I used to fabricate and sell numerous aftermarket and custom parts. Both mechanical and electrical. The lawyer I talked to said that by an individual installing it themselves, in their own car, they are assuming liability for what they are installing.



Now make me one, its hot as hell out LOL!
 
same issue with 2/3 on the fan and being all thumbs won't be making a whatchamacalit. Odd that a new switch does not fix it. What gives Mazda?
 
I don't consider this a real fix, but if one absolutely must have the AC working ASAP and the blower is OK in all positions, then one could cut the sense wire (as indicated in the diagram at the beginning of this thread) and connect

controller side to wire to switch to wire to ground
blower side (insulate, so that it cannot short on anything)

There is essentially no current involved on the sense wire, so thin wire and a low amperage switch will suffice. However, the electrical connections must be solid, no wire nuts or twisted wires wrapped in electrician's tape! Either solder or use crimp connectors. Any bare metal on the chassis will do for the ground.

When the new switch is closed the compressor will be on. However, it will probably be on even when the blower is off, and I'm not sure the AC light would be lit to indicate that. This isn't an operating state the controller was designed to handle, so we don't know what it will do. I don't think it will blow anything up, but I have never tried enabling the compressor when the fan was off. If you are really careful to never enable the compressor when the blower is off you will never find out if this is a problem. The blower will work exactly as before, as those wires will not be affected.
 
same issue with 2/3 on the fan and being all thumbs won't be making a whatchamacalit. Odd that a new switch does not fix it. What gives Mazda?

I thought it would be hard to make this, but it was really not that bad. I have an extra board and resisters. I could make you one if you want. PM me
 
So your AC is working correctly now?

well...... I made the box, it tested out exactly like it should have, i just got done installing it, and now my AC doesnt come on in any position.

When you say control side and blower side on the blue/yellow wire, you are saying that control side is the wire left attached to the plug, and the blower side is the wire going back into the harness correct?
 
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Here is what i did

attachment.php
 
Well I just switched the white and green wires, and no luck. Im sure I was right the first time anyways. .............. Any ideas?
 
well...... I made the box, it tested out exactly like it should have, i just got done installing it, and now my AC doesnt come on in any position.

Well that's not good.

When you say control side and blower side on the blue/yellow wire, you are saying that control side is the wire left attached to the plug, and the blower side is the wire going back into the harness correct?

The control side is the wire going into the control unit. The blower side is the wire that leads into the control unit. The blower side is the one going back under the dash to parts unknown (but eventually to connect to the fan speed 1 wire.)

Assuming you have not yet put the box in its final position, unscrew and remove the top and measure voltages with your multimeter (20VDC position) directly on the board as in the original tests. Verify that:
1 12V is at 12V (top of R1 and R2, the side away from the IC)
2 ground is at ground (compare to any bare metal) (pin 5)
3 the input wire (the blower side wire) is at a low voltage when the blower is on and at a high voltage when the fan is off (pin 2)
4 the sense wire (the one to the control side) is at 0 when the blower line is low, and around 12 when the blower line is around 12 (pin 6 or 4).

Be extremely careful that your probes are in the right place when you make these measurements - do not short pins!
 
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Did anyone ever isolate what degrades over time to give us the problem (i.e. the sense line voltage grounding residual voltage too high to trigger)? I'm assuming here that most all P5s didn't do this when first delivered. If not the fan speed switch itself wearing out, is a wiring connector going bad? Blower resistors losing resistance somehow? I think most happen sort of gradually(?) Something is changing...

My car has only about 30k on it now and has had the AC problem since about 5000 miles. Dealer would not fix it under warranty since my car had been previously totaled.
 
The control side is the wire going into the control unit. The blower side is the wire that leads into the control unit. The blower side is the one going back under the dash to parts unknown (but eventually to connect to the fan speed 1 wire.)

I think you just said they both go into the control unit. But the next sentence you said blower goes back into the wire harness so i think i got ya.

So my diagram is correct then right?
 
i will be back on in a few. Gonna go reconnect it and check what you suggested.

*update*
I do not have 12v on the blue/red wire. Not at the box, or at the plug.

If i touch the green wire to ground, then it works in all 1-4 positions.

Hmmmmm........ i wonder....... a long long time ago i did the disconnect a/c while in defrost mod. Maybe that is why i do not have 12v on that wire?
 
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ok its confirmed. No matter what fan speed, switch position, anything, Ive never got any voltage on the blue/red wire.

If i reconnect the blue/yellow wire, my ac works in position 1 and thats it, just like before.

If i connect the blue/yellow wire to ground, then it works in all positions.

since you said the blue/red wire is coming off of the switch position 1, can i just grab some power off the back of the switch? Ill test those and report back what voltage they get in different positions
 

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