Another Hitch question

Just picked up a 2008 CX9 Grand Touring AWD with 18000 miles. I need to install a hitch and have read a few threads on here so have a few questions.

Does the 08 have the plug and play in the back for the light harness rather then run up to the battery?
Does the 08 have a trans cooler or anything factory for towing?
Also what is the towing capacity.

Thanks
 
The 08 with the factory tow package has an extra fan control module. Check yours to see if you have two. The towing capacity is 3500 lbs. There's a very good thread out there somewhere with pics of the extra control module off my GT w/ towing package that should help.

This thread talks about wiring.
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123775264&highlight=fan+control+module

This is the thread i was referring to w/ pics of the module.
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123745092&highlight=fan+control+module
 
If your '08 does not come with tow package,
- you have to run wiring to the battery
- the two rating is 2000lb
- your have ONE fan control module (see the above thread link for pictures)
- your CX9 still have a trans cooler, just smaller.

The easiest way to tell is to see how many control modules your CX9 has.
 
If your '08 does not come with tow package,
- you have to run wiring to the battery
- the two rating is 2000lb
- your have ONE fan control module (see the above thread link for pictures)
- your CX9 still have a trans cooler, just smaller.

The easiest way to tell is to see how many control modules your CX9 has.

I respectfully disagree with Ceric on one point.

One does not have to run a wire to the battery. I did not run a wire to the battery, I tapped the rear cargo compartment 12V socket right at the back and landed the ground back there under an existing screw. I do not anticipate using the rear 12V socket while towing and it is sourced with a 15A fuse. I tapped the positive and left the 7.5A trailer wiring module fuse in after the tap.
 
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As an electrician, certified electronic technician, and having a degree in electronics technology, I agree with Ceric. Run a wire with a separate fuse to the battery.
 
As an electrician, certified electronic technician, and having a degree in electronics technology, I agree with Ceric. Run a wire with a separate fuse to the battery.

Rumblefish,

Just know your options. I am time limited almost always but I do want to do things right. While running a dedicated circuit is never wrong, many times it is unnecessary.

In my case, having the dedicated 15A fused rear cargo socket I rarely use (and never when towing), I did the easy thing and tapped the circuit right at the back just head of the socket. The car is chassis negative so any good metal bolt into metal makes for a fine bonding point. My hitch lights module has a 7.5A fuse, which is far less than 15A so the cargo socket still has 7.5A to hand out (more or less) even when using the hitch lighting module at the fully fused limit (which should never really happen). I just tapped the +12V feeding the socket with the fused +12V lead into the module and all has been good.
 
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Not all trailer light kits are 7.5 amps. Mine is 10, and the rear socket on mine is also rated for 10 amps, not 15. Are you sure yours is 15? (The cover states 12Volt, 120 Watts)

I wouldn't recommend a 7.5 amp kit anyway. Most trailers can exceed that, other than very small trailers with basic LED lighting.

You also run the risk of damaging the electrical system by tapping circuits not designed for the accessories. Any new accessory that doesn't have a 'lighter' plug should be wired to it's own fuse from the battery; trailer, amp, transceiver...
 
Well, "running wires to the battery" is highly recommended by instructions I have read from wiring kits, though I have not install one myself yet. (no need for me yet)

I guess RUMBLEFISH got the idea, and can decide for himself.
 
All good points. Like has been said, one can't go wrong running a dedicated circuit but in my case, I didnt need it. FYI, For my car, an 08, each 12v socket is fed with it's own 15A fuse which means each circuit must be safe up to 15A. My socket cover does say 10A. I am not sure why, maybe to ensure reliabilty. For my use the most I ever plug in to the cargo socket is a laptop charger which pulls about 2A at 12V.
 
Wow, okay, enough of your jack-assery. This thread has now gone two posts too far.

I guess my 16 years as a licensed Professional Electrical Engineer in the State of California, working in the power industry for nearly 20 years is not sufficient for me to understand the capabilities of a simple 12V DC cigarette lighter circuit in a freaking car.

Give me a break guy.

I have tried to be courteous to you and not call out your buffoonery with your knee-jerk insistence on running a dedicated circuit for trailer lights of all things to the battery.

Look, you are helpful and you have helped me before, and I appreciate that but let's not get pushy with our opinions of things.

As Ceric said, Rumblefish will decide. He/She has gotten good advice from us which is one of the main objectives of forums such as these, and if you truly have even an introductory understanding of electrical principles, you absolutely must admit each case will work fine. Period.
 
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Apparently, it's NOT enough for you to understand a simple 12V outlet. Maybe less theory and more real world application for you.

And that's a pretty impressive title for someone whose maturity level dictates a nick name like Pootie Tang. Hmmmmmm
 
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Then you should have no trouble explaining how in the real-world, a 15A fuse can't handle a 10A load.
 
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