alpine cda-9813

[yay for cars]

ok, i keep getting new ideas for systems and such, so dont be confused if you followed what ive been doing, cause it seems to keep changing
my question is about the alpine cda-9813 unit. since this has a pretty powerful amp in it, i hear it has to be wired straight to the battery. do i just do this like i would with an amp? what size wire and fuse? and also, is it good for the 60Wx4 it claims, or is that max power? what is it rms wise?
thanks guys.

edit: also, can someone please explain to me the deal with mounting a single DIN in our p5 stereo space? i hear talk of having to have a bar for support, what is this about? if the only peice i get is the adaptor for like $20 (?) from the dealer, do i need anything else to make the alpine unit fit? thanks.

 

[1sty]

A headunit can not replace a extrernal amp when it comes to SQ.
The RMS rating is 27 watts but even that is somewhat exagerated. It can be used and it might not be to bad for your quarts but it will never have the same control or low distortion output of a good outboard amp witht he same power output.

To somewhat stress this point, How can a unit that is only 7" long x 3" high x 6"deep play CDs, tune in radio stations, have adjustable crossovers, digitial time correction, processing for a cd changer bus and have a 27x4 internal amp when the same companies closely powered amp is over 3 times its size?
It can't.

For the supporting the radio there are 2 "bar"s to speak of. One is if you are just using the pocket sold by metra and not a full dash kit you will need to get or make a front support braket. Mazda uses one with the MP3 and the MSP so you can get it from the dealer. If you are using the full dash kit then this part is un-needed. The other bar is the radios rear support bar that holds the back of the radio solid. When you remove your radio this will be hard to miss as it rund down the back of the entire center dash and is 2" wide not to mention obviously hold the back of the radio solid. You can aviod doing this but the Alpine especialy will skip if you do. The back of any aftermarket radio has a small bolt hole, you just need to screw in the hardware that comes with the alpine and use the rubber stopper to hold up the back of the radio in the support bar.

 

[yay for cars]

thanks a lot man. i just figured for ease of wiring and later upgradeability, id rather go for this head unit first and an amp later, instead of an amp first with the stock HU. it should make things connect a lot easier, and if im not satisfied i can always get a good amp later. i think i will see mazda about the dash kit, any part numbers i should ask them to look up? and who do i talk to, just the guy roaming around trying to make a sale?

also, what type of wire and fuse should i use since this HU needs to be wired to the battery? do i just hook it up like i would with an amp?

thanks for all your advice man, it is so much appreciated. when i get this thing finally installed (God-willing), im going to hunt you down and give you a hug

 

[Little Beavis]

I've been looking at the same head unit, it is a pretty sweet piece.

Anyway, they do claim that they need to run power to this HU as though it was a "large" amp. I think Crutchfield is recommending that you power it with 10 gauge wire. I would guess that it doesn't really need that much, but if you've got it, use it, otherwise 12 is probably the minimum you want to use. Besides, the manual will probably tell you something as well.

You can wait for "1st" to respond as I believe he's still installing stereos, but I speak from "past experience" doing the same. He's right on for everything he said, but I agree that you're headed in the right direction. . .starting with the HU then worrying about an amp later on.

P.S. If you can get the Mazda setup form the MP3, do it. It has a nice "handy" compartment with a door below the radio as opposed to normal kits that typically just add a bunch of plastic and center the radio in the double din opening.

That's my take at least.

Have fun!

 

[1sty]

thanks a lot man. i just figured for ease of wiring and later upgradeability, id rather go for this head unit first and an amp later, instead of an amp first with the stock HU. it should make things connect a lot easier, and if im not satisfied i can always get a good amp later.

A good idea.

i think i will see mazda about the dash kit, any part numbers i should ask them to look up? and who do i talk to, just the guy roaming around trying to make a sale?

Mazda only has the MP3 style pocket and support bracket if thats your decided path but the pocket is up to $90.
The scosche dash kit would be my choice for only $15 and no need for the front mounting bracket.

also, what type of wire and fuse should i use since this HU needs to be wired to the battery? do i just hook it up like i would with an amp?

When a customer try's a V-Drive I sell the Monster cable 10 guage amplifier kit as it has power wire, ground wire, fuse, fuse holder, wheater proofing shrink wrap, 2 ring terminals, and a 10 guage butt connector (the yellow ones, you'll need one more)

thanks for all your advice man, it is so much appreciated. when i get this thing finally installed (God-willing), im going to hunt you down and give you a hug

Your welcome, please don't hug me.

 

[1sty]

Yes the 10 Guage is overkill and 14-12 is fine but by the time you go get all the individual parts its easier to just buy the smallest amp power kit.

 

[yay for cars]

so am i hearing you right in that i basically need 1 amp kit for the head and 1 for the subwoofer amp? i have to have a seperate power wire, fuse, and ground wire for both?
thanks

 

[1sty]

You don't have to but do you really want to install a distrobution block before the wore wire goes anywhere neer the amps?
You can also get a piece of 12 wire and wire to the constant power wire found at the colum I mention in my remote starter sticky.

 

[yay for cars]

all right, i think ive got everything, but i have a few last minute details to sort out. i got the metra harness, the scosche dash kit, 2 scosche amp kits, etc. i know for the head unit i need to bypass the power wire on the harness and just wire it like an amp, but can i use the ground wire on the harness for the head unit, or do i have to directly wire that too? also, would it be better to buy one of the speaker adaptors from crutchfield (the 6x8 to 5 1/4" adaptor) or to make my own? keep in mind i need the speaker to fit without hitting the window. also, will the 5 1/4" fit in the back by itself or will that also need some sort of adaptor?
thanks SO MUCH!

 

[1sty]

It is best to make a new ground spot for the head unit.
The speaker adapters crutchfield have are a good best since they are plastic and dont rot out easily like wood will. If you could make your own with plexiglass that would be good too. You may want to dynamat the actual adapter to keep it from vibrating to much if its flimsy, hopefully its atleast 1/8" thick. I personaly like to make 6.5" adapters out of 3/8" or 1/2" plexi

 

[yay for cars]

i dont really have the means of making adaptors from fiberglass, so ill stick with the critchfield adaptors.
do i need ones for the back speakers?
and will everything still fit depth-wise and keep the window useable?

edit: just thought of a few more questions. is the seatbelt nut the best place to attatch ground wire? because my amp kit only comes with 4 feet of ground wire, which isnt enough to get from the head unit to that ring. id need like 7-8 feet. is there another place i can attatch this? i heard it was best to attach all ground wires to one spot, so i can get the one from the amp to the seatbelt nut, just not the one from the head unit. any advice?

 

[1sty]

Plexi not fiberglass but I fully understand You pretty much need a router to make them. I wouls suggest crutchfields. You probably will need one for the rear speakers aswell but that depends on the rear speakers you choose. Might aswell get them incase.
Just check the mounting depth of the speakers of whatever you eventualy go with and compare them against the depth listed in my sticky thread. You can add the adpters thickness to the depth too to account for the extra depth they provide.

There is no need to go all the way to the seat bolt belt for the radio. You can even ground it on the main metal dash supports behind the radio. Just scrap away any rust or corrosion.
The only reason to run the radios ground all the way to amps ground is becuase the system has noise and all other possibilities have been ruled out.

You just want to make sure all of the amplifiers and processors are grounded in the same spot.

 

[yay for cars]

ok then there should be no grounding issues. the only thing i am concerned about is size/depth issues. i went with the 5 1/4" mb quart rkc113s for the back too, and i know the back hole is 6", so will i need an adaptor? i cant find one that fits that size. and the depths are confusing on mb quart's site, it lists a bunch of different depths depending on how its mounted. i think you checked before and told me it would fit depth-wise, is this true even with the adaptor? im also not sure how thick the adaptor is, crutchfield doesnt list it, but its just one of their scosche brackets. any help figuring out if this will fit without hitting the window and without smooshing the mounted tweeter against the speaker grill on the panel would be great.

 

[1sty]

They will fit but the rears will need an adapter, you may want to get a 6 1/2 for the back to fit better. You might be able to use the 5 1/4s mounting ring to make it fit.