6X8 to 6.5 conversion

[corndogge]

Hey guys. I took your advice and listened to some speakers today. I was really impressed by the value of the MB Quart Discus line. I'm planning to pick up a pair dse 216s.

I was just wondering if there was an aftermarket kit to make the conversion easier. It seems like there should be enough demand out there to make one. I'm sure I could do my own, I'd just rather not. I'm also wondering if there are any reasons not to mount the tweets in the stock location.

Any helpful links for me would be appreciated. My own searches haven't proven very useful. Thanks.

 

[1sty]

www.sounddomain.com caries someadapters.

Mounting the tweeters up high usualy creates some weird seperation and relaly messes up imaging. Honestly, though, most poeple will never even know.Most factory systems are like that anyways.

 

[ChuEy826]

For the front speakers:

http://www.thezeb.com/p-Metra-82-5600-Universal-Speaker-Adapter-Bracket-106845.htm

For the back speakers:

http://www.thezeb.com/p-Metra-82-7500-Universal-Speaker-Adapter-Bracket-106850.htm

I would've bought these, but I didn't know about them, so I made my own out of wood.. was pretty easy either way. Good luck with your install

 

[corndogge]

Thanks to 1sty I have a theoretical understanding of imaging. Something tells me I would have to do a lot more listening and a lot less reading in order to hear the difference.

Why is it so popular among car manufacturers and DIYers to choose the remote location for the tweets.

These links are perfect, thanks. Now I'm wondering if I can fit my woofer and tweeter side by side behind the stock grill. I would love to get kick mounts, but I'm trying to stay as low-budget as possible.

 

[Poseur]

The thing with high mounted tweets for factory systems isthat if you're lacking power in the first place, a way tomake thigns seem louder easily is simply putting speakers closer to your ears. Alot of DIYers simply see this and they'll only see the high-mounted "imaging" tweeters of pro setups and they'll decide that this is the way to go. YES kicsk are awesome but you don't necessarily need them. I recommend putting your drivers in the door and trying to put the tweets near your kickpanel area. that's wht I did whenI was running 2-ways and it worked great for the couple days my speakers functioned... (unrelated story, I got screwed, blah) Eitherway, your best bet would be to mount your mids, then get some 2-sided tape and plenty speakerwire and move your tweeters around until you find a place that works right. take some tiem and listen to the difference, and don't be afriad to try weird irrational things, cause sometimes for whatever reason it just works...

Andyes ALOT more listening, alot less reading, VERY well put, if only everyone else in the 'net world figured it out that quickly.. hell I took awhile to do it myself...

 

[corndogge]

Well, unfortunately I lack the patience to listen to everything before I buy, so at the first sign of something I like (which also came highly recommended) I've bought some stuff.

MB Quart DSE 216
Kicker 650.4
on the verge of getting a JL 10W3v2-(D2?)

I've been snooping round the JL site trying to figure out how to make it work. Knowing that my amp bridged has to be @4 ohms, the only thing I could come up with was that I needed to go with the dual 2 ohm dvc and wire it in series - claims to equal 4 ohms on their diagram. But even then there was something I've never heard of before called DC Resistance that stated it was 3.31 ohms when this application was used. http://jlaudio.com/subwoofers/pdfs/10W3v2_MAN.pdf

?.

I'm also wondering if I'm correct in thinking that because my sub will only get 250w of power that 70w to each of the components should be a good balance. I liked the way the dse sounded, but if I had gone with the reference series I could have switched to 2 ohms and greatly increased my output (135w).

One last ?. Can a capacitor give you consistent maximum voltage. I know even less about capacitors than everything else, but if it could give me the #s listed under the 14.4V column as opposed to the 13.8V it would seem like a wise investment. Thanks again for all your brains. (drinks)

 

[SP33D]

all this talk about sound systems is gonna make me cry... i can't wait until i can afford the rest of my equipment

best of luck with yours

Technically no sound system should really need a cap, unless you're trying to hit a rediculous SPL. A deep cycle battery (optima yellow top.. or even red top) and an upgraded alternator would work a lot better than a cap. A cap just makes your alternator and battery work harder.

 

[corndogge]

Thanks for the tip. The little things can accumulate just as fast as the big things. Most of the entries in 1sty's $1000 challenge just said, "and $50 for wiring and stuff." That just doesn't cut it. If a system should be run off of a high end battery and re-spun alternator then that should be included too. I think when my system hits a plateau (never say done) I will post all my upgrades in that thread along with all the real money it took.

I just can't wait 'til I can order the aux mini disc/rca adapter. I'm tired of XM souning like AM because of interference with the wireless modulator. But I guess that's a whole new thread.

 

[1sty]

Well, unfortunately I lack the patience to listen to everything before I buy, so at the first sign of something I like (which also came highly recommended) I've bought some stuff.

MB Quart DSE 216
Kicker 650.4
on the verge of getting a JL 10W3v2-(D2?)

I've been snooping round the JL site trying to figure out how to make it work. Knowing that my amp bridged has to be @4 ohms, the only thing I could come up with was that I needed to go with the dual 2 ohm dvc and wire it in series - claims to equal 4 ohms on their diagram. But even then there was something I've never heard of before called DC Resistance that stated it was 3.31 ohms when this application was used. http://jlaudio.com/subwoofers/pdfs/10W3v2_MAN.pdf

?.

Don't worry about it, thats the sub you want, d2. If you look at most subs, non are actualy 4 ohms dead on, most are a little lower. Also this is the resistacne when the sub isn't actualy doing anything. When subwoofer plays, its resistance jumps all over the place.

I'm also wondering if I'm correct in thinking that because my sub will only get 250w of power that 70w to each of the components should be a good balance. I liked the way the dse sounded, but if I had gone with the reference series I could have switched to 2 ohms and greatly increased my output (135w).

That should be a very nice balane. Discus series quarts can be very loud with just deck power. They don't need much to move.

One last ?. Can a capacitor give you consistent maximum voltage. I know even less about capacitors than everything else, but if it could give me the #s listed under the 14.4V column as opposed to the 13.8V it would seem like a wise investment. Thanks again for all your brains.

It can't. Capacitors just aren't that useful in mobile audio. None are going to maintain a voltage of 14.4 or 13.8. As the amps draw power, the electrical system will dip from the alternators charging voltage of 14.4 to the batteries resting voltage of 12.6. Its a gaurentee, especialy with higher powered sub amps. What a capacitor can do is help to maintain a minimum voltage. Although I have yet to see it measured as significan't. Your amp is pretty mild so I wouldn't even bother with a cap if i was you. At most, use a 1 farad standard sytle cap. The big cylinder ones.

Take a look at this thread on carsound:
http://www.carsound.com/UBB/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=022965

Pay attention to member "Richard Clark". In essence, he wrote the book on car audio. It was called the autosound 2000 tech briefs. He makes alot of claims that manufacturers, salesmen and wannabe audiophiles disagree with, however he has yet to be proven wrong and puts up several thousand dollars to anyone that can.
The thread is about testing Rockford Fosates new 80 farad capacitor.

This is a great thread too:
http://www.carsound.com/UBB/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=022700#000004
Member "Sean" post together alot of RC's posts.

 

[1sty]

Technically no sound system should really need a cap, unless you're trying to hit a rediculous SPL.

Actauly, thats when a cap is all but totaly useless. As the amperage demand on a cap increases, the usable voltage drops below the point that it will be a load on the battery. So by the time the cap could kick in some power, the battery has already taken over and the cap is now just a another load.

 

[1sty]

Thanks for the tip. The little things can accumulate just as fast as the big things. Most of the entries in 1sty's $1000 challenge just said, "and $50 for wiring and stuff." That just doesn't cut it. If a system should be run off of a high end battery and re-spun alternator then that should be included too. I think when my system hits a plateau (never say done) I will post all my upgrades in that thread along with all the real money it took.

Typicly a system that cost only $1000 will not need a battery or an alternator. Hell even ones that cost $4000 shouldn't need it unless they are SPL systems and drawing an assload of power. Your systems certainly doesn't need it.

I just can't wait 'til I can order the aux mini disc/rca adapter. I'm tired of XM souning like AM because of interference with the wireless modulator. But I guess that's a whole new thread.

Get one of the wired FM adaptors. They are called FM modulators.

 

[Poseur]

1.5+KW daily for over a year over here, hell I was fully stock electrically for half of the time. DO get a grounding kit (1sty makes awesome ones) my battery never even died, I jsut replaced it 'cause I could and I figured a bit of preventative maintenance would be good while i had the money for an optima red. The amazing thing is that actually, I'm fairly conservative power for a protege with a stock alt and no caps. Wake was running about twice what I have been for quite awhile as well.

 

[Poseur]

oh, and asfor the conversion that you'd initially posted about... http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=73605&highlight=fiberglass+enclosure simple and fast to make yourself. cut out oval of wood with round hole in it, done.

 

[corndogge]

Awesome, 1sty. I read both links and actually understood some of it.

And poseur that how2 was exactly what I was looking for... but I think I will still buy the ones online just because they're only $10 and I will feel better knowing it looks cleaner under the door panel (crazy). I guess I'm thinking about gaps and rattles too.

Thanks again guys. If you ever come to Daytona I owe you one (drinks).

 

[got wake?]

Awesome, 1sty. I read both links and actually understood some of it.

And poseur that how2 was exactly what I was looking for... but I think I will still buy the ones online just because they're only $10 and I will feel better knowing it looks cleaner under the door panel (crazy). I guess I'm thinking about gaps and rattles too.

Thanks again guys. If you ever come to Daytona I owe you one (drinks).

s***, if all my tools weren't packed up still from the hurricanes, i'd make you a set out of wood. those cheap plastic ones are crap, they offer little stability for the speaker to be mounted to, so the speaker will distort sooner. check with a local shop in daytona to see if they'll make you a set of adapters out of 1/2" wood. then all you have to do is paint the back to seal out water and install it. shouldn't be but $25-$30. unfortunately since i live in deland, i don't hang out with the audio shops in daytona much, so i can't say who to go to. i've heard audio excellence by wes does some nice work. stereo types is generally expensive, but owned by paul papadeas (president of iasca), so they do very good work.

what equipment have you bought, and how much have you paid? what do you still need?

 

[corndogge]

I typed a good response to this last night just as my cable decided to crap out.

It was something like... blah blah I didn't realize the adapters online were inferior blah blah I guess I'll build my own blah blah all I have so far is myK650-4, but I'll get some stuff for Christmas.